Sapperfires 93 blue on blue progress thread

I know you've already decided to just use your old motor after replacing the head gasket, but couldn't you technically just put your old heads on the other motor?

Or does that require timing them? I guess since someone said use Lazer's old ones that it must not. Seems like after changing all the gaskets and sensors on that motor you guys cleaned up would go to waste.
 
I dont know why some people say to use my old heads. I never pulled them off the motor and the motor was sold a couple months ago.

4v heads are notoriously hard to time. If you know the timing is good then you can lock the cams, mark the primary chain and pull it apart to replace gaskets. But if you have no idea what the timing is at then you need special tools and knowledge I dont have to do it.

Cant reuse the old setup even if I could re-time the cams. These motors can only tolerate a few degrees change in the cams before the valves hit. I can see that the passenger intake cam is off about 45* and the exhaust cam can move 20* retarded or advanced cause of the broken/missing key. There HAS to be valve dammage.
 
where is jeremy's old motor? why not just change the headgasket on that motor? forgive me if i should know where it is but i havent kept up on this thread. i wouldnt spend any time on the motor you guys just took back out though that is junk, dont waste any time on it just take all the good stuff off of it.
 
BAD97LSC said:
where is jeremy's old motor? why not just change the headgasket on that motor? forgive me if i should know where it is but i havent kept up on this thread. i wouldnt spend any time on the motor you guys just took back out though that is junk, dont waste any time on it just take all the good stuff off of it.
Click to expand...
Ugh. Yes I am replacing the head gasket in his old motor. I have talked to you about this Jamie and said I was gonna do it. I would have done them today but he got the wrong cam tool. I was kinda thinking of just using a pair of large zip ties and running it through the secondary chains next to the sprockets. That should hold them still and i can swap them out.

Not gonna do the secondary tensioners as I had planned. The sprockets on the drivers side head have to be removed to get the tensioners bolts off and the chance of hurting the cam or moving the timing is too great and we need this car back running again.
Pretty sure its just his primary tensioners that are the problem. May have a stretched chain but I now have two nice spares.

As for the motor, its sold pretty much. Dude is building a twin turbo 2001 Bullitt and wanted the block. At least Sapper wont be out any cash other then the gaskets and other misc parts needed for the swap.
 
bill you dont need any cam tools if you are only taking off one head, you are not taking the cams out, and you wont be taking the cam chain off, so you dont need the cam tools. i can show you how i did derek's, all you need is someone to hold the wrench on the cam bolt and when you go to put the big cam sprocket back on you can turn the cams to the correct positiong and bolt the sprocket back on with the chain on it already going to the crank, its hard to type what i mean i can tell you on the phone and show you pictures if you want just let me know.
 
I see what you are saying. Pics would still be cool though.
 
all i did bill was take out the tensioners so the chain was loose, i then zip tied the chain tight around the cam sprocket and the crank, then i turned the cams with a wrench until the two notches in the cams were dead level with the top of the cam girdle then marked the cam sprocket where it was with a paint pen on the sprocket and matched the line up on the head inline with my mark on the sprocket. then i removed the bolt from the cam sprocket and took it off and let it dangle like this...
derriksmotor3.jpg

and after i got it back together...
derriksmotor1.jpg


then removed the head, and put the new gasket and refurbed head on, bolted it back down, then when i went to put the timing chain back on, i swung the sprocket back up to the cam but before i put it back on the cam, i had my buddy matt put a wrench on the other cam and he turned them until them notches were back where they were when i took the sprocket off the cam, when i say turned them, he litterally only had to turn them about an 1/8 inch because when we took the timing chain off the cams sprung back a little from the force of the springs, but we knew this was gonna happen thats why we lined the cam shaft notches up with a refference point first, then marked the cam sprocket for the timing chain, so we could put it back exactly where i took it off. it was very easy, he helped me, but my butthole was puckered up because i never did that before, and i know what can happen when the timing is off, but it went without a hitch, perfect!
 
LaserSVT said:
I dont know why some people say to use my old heads. I never pulled them off the motor and the motor was sold a couple months ago.
Click to expand...

I had no idea you had gotten rid of it.
 
So that's pretty much what I was planning except I was also gonna mark the crank sprocket so I could pull the chain. I knew about ythe spring thing moving the cams and thought that's why I needed the cam locks. Didn't wanna tq the head with a valve making contact.

Thanks for the pics.
 
marked8 said:
I had no idea you had gotten rid of it.
Click to expand...
Yeah, practically gave iyt away. The cranks keyway was broken and thays what the noise was. Was causing hell on the cam timing too.
 
ford nut said:
Is it done yet?
Click to expand...
Not yet.Still waiting on head bolts.

I had to fix some issues that showed up during removal. We scratched the passenger side valve cover on the front and the drivers valve cover on the back so I had to sand them down and spot paint them.
Also noticed the vac ports on the intake were cracked off and someone used JB weld to put them back together. Instead of fuggin with that I just removed his original intale and am repainting it. Also decided to repaint the intake pipe to match the plenum.


Sapper has to come back over to clean the motor and as soon as the head bolts get here I will swap the head gasket and then we can slap the motor back in the car.
 
Doing the head gasket today even though the head bolts aint here yet. Just gonna snug them down for the time being but wanted the cleanup and assembly done so we can slap it all in after the bolts get here.

Also found the rattle at startup. The driver side tensioner and rail were worn through and close to failing. Fortunatly I have spares.

IMGP0091.jpg

IMGP0092.jpg

IMGP0101.jpg

IMGP0094.jpg
 
have fun breaking them headbolts loose, better have jeremy hold the engine while you use a breaker bar with a pipe and a 15 mm, those bastards are usually so tight that even my impact gun wont break them all loose!!
 
Shes partially together. Still waiting on head bolts to go any further.

IMGP0102.jpg

IMGP0103.jpg
 
Tried some different stuff with the pulleys and the intake tube. What ya'll think?


IMGP0104.jpg

IMGP0106.jpg
 
Thanks. Would be nice if the bolts got here so I could slap that bish in there! :lol:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 233 (members: 2, guests: 231)
Back
Top