DERALE oil filter relocation kit project

An update..... I'v done one oil change on this and that was a cake walk. After about 4K miles, I noticed an oil drip on the floor of my garage. It was coming from the adapter screwed onto the engine block. Apparently what happened was the large rubber O ring seal on the adapter softened up just enough to let some oil seep by. I put an angle head plyer on the adapter and turned it tighter by maybe not quite a quarter turn. That was easy enough but in doing so, it created a problem. Since the top hose on the adapter was then moved clock wise, it put that hose further from the filter down below, causing the hose to be taunt. That is not a good thing since the engine needs slake in the hoses so when the engine rocks in the mounts, the hoses must give in to that pulling up motion. So, I ended up razor cutting a line in the hose over the barbs on that oil line, pulled it off and cut a fresh section of line about 2.5 inches longer from the original 10' oil line. It when on pretty easy by only removing the lower bottom valence to gain access under the ABS pump. I didn't have to take the wheel off. So, just a heads up to have enough hose on the upper adapter port just so you don't bind it tight in case the block adapter needs to be turned tighter latter on.

Another UPDATE! Well, for the second time, the block adapter started leaking pretty good again! I contacted Derale CS and they said I should tighten the adapter untill the adapter body hits the engine platform. I had a .014 adapter to block gap that was still pretty snug as the way an oil filter would be. Now mind you these screw on adapters only have a tiny 5 cent C clip holding the adapter body onto the engine and with an engine that revs to 6K RPM, the oil flow hitting that adapter in nothing to shrug off as insignificant. CS said thousands have been sold and they have never had a C clip fail. My luck, I would be the first one with a blow engine on the interstate because the extra tightened adapter popped off and puked out all my oil in about 3 seconds flat. So instead of doing what CS suggested, I decided to ditch the Derale adapter for a new Trans Dapt unit from their #1127 kit. This kit has a block adapter that is directly threaded for our 22mm x 1.5mm engine oil filter nipple.
PROBLEM..... When I started to screw the Trans Dapt onto the engine, I noticed the gap on it open and close drastically as I turned it onto the block to make sure it would bottom out on the engine without the O ring in place. This was cause by exceptionally bad QC on Trans Dapts part. The nipple hole in the center of the adapter was drilled & taped horribly out of square with the adapter face! I made up a 22mm x 1.5mm lathe shank and found that the adapter face was .050 out of square with the center nipple bore. That means, if you try and tighten the unit onto the block, one edge would bottom out onto the engine while there is a .050 gap on the other side of the adapter. An oil filter has a total of .035 crush on its gasket until the filter bodge actually bottomed metal to metal on the block and we never tighten to that extent. In other words, the adapter I got out of the box should have been sent back for a "good" replacement if they infact have any that are drilled & taped squarely with the face of the adapter. I still wanted to use the Trans dapt over the derale unit since the oil line barbs in the Trans Dapt kit are bored to .438 compaired to Derale's .390 bored barb ports. .048" is a significant increase in flow rate threw the choke points of the relocation kit.
So..... Sine I have a lathe, I decided to true up the Trans Dapt adapter on the lathe and since I was at it and had to true up the O-ring groove, I decided to open up the O ring groove for an oil filter flat gasket O ring. This makes for an absolutely Un-Leakable OEM style seal on the adapter. The picture shows a red Bosch oil filter gasket fit into the modifyed Trans Dapt housing with the original Trans Dapt O-Ring against it. You can see the C clip over the nipple nut in the Derale housing to the right with their O-ring showing considerable flattening over the 20K I put on the adapter. With these modifications to the Trans Dapt adapter head, I should never have a leaking adapter....ever!

The barbed ports

One other issue with the Trans Dapt block adapter head is the 22mm x 1.5mm female threads are not quite deep enough in the adapter especially after turning the face of it down by .050. The threads simply need to be bottomed with a bottoming tap since there is plenty of unthreaded wall left in the housing hole. The tool I made up to turn the head in the lathe is base off a $10 dollar Auto Zone oil pan drain plug from a Doge Truck. I machined a bolt shank stem into this 22mm x 1.5 thread plug to spin the plate true off its center threaded hole. To deepen the threads, I just cut 4 "Tap" like reliefs in the threads of that drain plug so it would cut new threads into the soft aluminum head. Worked out perfectly so the head can spin all the way onto the engine block without the gasket ring. The directions tell you that if it dosent spine on all the way, take the nipple off the engine and shorten it! Thats about the stupidest instruction Iv ever read on installing any thing. Aside from it being impossible to remove the factory nipple to shorten it.