Probably the most disliked thing about changing the oil filter on my 97 is the fact that you have to spin it on dry. As every one knows, cold start up is when the bulk of engine wear happens according to the experts. So add a dry filter and you multiply the wear factor several times. So my main concern was a vertical location with easy access. After much consideration, I think I have achieved my goal and here is a guide to help any one else along with such a desire. The Kit I chose is the Derale Performance #15748 It cost about 48 bucks and is a pretty nice unit with hard anodized 1/2" hose barbs. Its a one size fits most 63-07 GM's kit but does in fact have a 22mm x 1.5 sleeve nut that will allow the adapter head to screw onto the 4.6 block perfectly. What you must add to the kit separately is a filter nipple that will allow the FL820S filter. The nipple in the kit will allow a Motorcraft FL1A oil filter. I wanted to keep the OEM filters so I made up a nipple. That would be a 3/4 x 16 TPI by 22mm x 1.5mm thread. This shot shows the kit nipple on the left and the one I made up from a Dodge truck oil plug. Derale has step up nipples like what we need and may sell them directly or you can source similar adapter nipples on the net,

Heres the adapters with my filter nipple installed and the 22mm x 1.5 hex nut installed.

I like to seal NPT fittings buy first smearing some permatex thread sealant on the fitting threads and then go over the threads with about 4 loops of standard Teflon pipe thread tape. After hundreds of fittings, never one drop of leakage.

In place on the engine, be sure to mark the inlet / outlet ports so you don't cross the lines to the filter head.

I used a Bi Metal 1 and 1/8th Diam hole saw to open the one existing hole slightly and drill one complete hole here as pictured. There are 2 factory frame holes just opposite the adapter that line up nicely with these 2 holes I have prepared to be their mates.

I fab-ed up a simple bracket that looks like this. I mig welded the bolt heads in place.


With the filter mounted, I used a steel bar to flex bend the holes mouths to allow the hoses threw with no pinching what ever.

Install the hoses.....

....liquid tape the hoes in the holes to stop any possible abrasion motion

Here I cut the inner fender pan to clear the filter head and you can see 3 tab slots I cut for a plastic shield.

Here a flush plastic shield that can be removed or you can leave it in place for a straight up filter replacement.


The bottom of the 820S is about 2.5 inches up above the bottom of the pictured frame support bar mount. I could have put it higher but didn't want any kinking of my hoses over the filter head. The filters are quite robustly built so I think all things considered, Its safely positioned from road or tire debris. I'm liking it!