The next progress thread: 1998 Midnight Grey LSC

First of all i asked you what dash kit you used...Thats it..You were being a little bitch and wouldn't answer a simple question.

And I have never claimed to anyone esp you that i'm king sh!t w/ stereo's. Idk where you got that from nor do i really care.
You have participated in threads where that question was answered and even quoted me when I had said more then once that no dash kit was used cause one is not needed.
It was in one of GMANs threads, one of Jamies threads and someone elses.

Every damn thread you come in to argue with me about something so why the fock would I want to help you?

Now stop screwing up my progress thread.
 
You have participated in threads where that question was answered and even quoted me when I had said more then once that no dash kit was used cause one is not needed.
It was in one of GMANs threads, one of Jamies threads and someone elses.

Every damn thread you come in to argue with me about something so why the fock would I want to help you?
Now stop screwing up my progress thread.

I'm sorry it comes off that way..:rolleyes:



But there is a method to my madness. You'll find out one of these days.
 
I'm sorry it comes off that way..:rolleyes:



But there is a method to my madness. You'll find out one of these days.
Actually I may have come off a bit harsh assuming you knew what amp classes were what.

So here is a very rudimentary breakdown. Some will poke holes in this but this is just to make the explanation as simple as possible.

First lets explain amp classes.
Class A: The cleanest design. Lowest THD (total harmonic distortion) and highest S/N (signal to noise ratio). Down side is they run very hot because the MOSFETS are always switching on/off. Usually they are around 50% efficient.

Class A/B: This is the most common amp for cars cause they are cheaper to make, still very clean and quite a bit more efficient. 60-70% usually.

Class D: This is also known as a digital amp. They have high THD and low S/N and get worse the higher the frequencies go. Thats why they are reserved for sub amps. They are very efficient so they can make more power in a smaller package and don't tax the charging system. Since frequencies below 100hz have to be above 10% THD before the human ear can hear it makes them perfect for subs. They are usually 80% efficient and sometimes more then that. Without proper test equipment I can not know for sure but unless my amps are severely over-rated then they are over 80% efficient.


OK, so there is a very basic breakdown.


Now power. Assuming the charging system is at 14v then you can divide the RMS output by the voltage and get the amp draw if they were 100% efficient.
So for my sub amps for instance its 14/600=42.86 amps. If the amps were only 80% efficient then they could pull apx 50 amps each give or take.
Now if they were class A/B then they would pull around 70 amps.

Since my 4 channel amp is an A/B it pulls close to 50 amps at full tilt. That would mean if my mono blocks were A/B as well then the stereo could pull 190 amps when cranked up all the way. That is too much for a 4awg wire that is 12' long. But since they are class D if you add their draw with the 4 channel thats 132 amps at full power and that is within the abilities of 4awg wire that is pure copper with 95%+ oxygen free.

Now I never run it as loud as it can go cause that is far louder then my ears can handle and would cause permanent hearing damage. When I jam it hard I will only see 90 amp spikes and a continuous load of apx 60 amps.


I hope this helps you a bit in understanding why 4awg is perfectly fine.
 
I know what type of classes there are for amps..Anyone with a grain of caraudio knowledge knows that.
 
I've never had trouble with good quality 4 awg and quality connectors with my systems either. Here's why: Casual listening. We're not competing or pushing the equipment to the limits. There's plenty of capacity for a fairly large system with 4 awg provided it's as stated (quality) and the system is properly tuned and wired, and the electrical system isn't stressed. Some of you may see this as moot, but I see having cable limitations as a fairly small issue to bicker over considering the other issues, the complexity therein, and the solutions to them. Let's ponder deadening, perhaps port types, or maybe even placement/staging/tonality in a automotive environment. Wiring talk is boring.
 
I know what type of classes there are for amps..Anyone with a grain of caraudio knowledge knows that.

If you knew what the classes were, how come you didn't know that 4 guage power wire was more than enough for that systems power level
 
Just the air bag change tomorrow. Sapperfire met lincolnboy for the rear bags and just dropped them off but they are cracked to hell and shot too so I prolly wont bother installing them.

Gotta figure out why the drivers door puddle lamp don't light up. I think its just unplugged in the door cause the bulb is fine.
 
LOL, reading this has been fun. I haven't been big into car audio since around 1994 when I had a $5500 system stolen. This was after having my first $2200 system stolen. I pretty much gave up on anything worth a damn after that.
 
I'd have to have an shock system installed to work with the alarm, it warns you and if you don't gtfo it gives you a nice crisp ZAP!
 
LOL at the car stereo stuff...

Been there, done that, RTTI Top Gun April 94. IASCA Installation Judge, 1993-1997.

Seen more stupid stuff then I care to remember. Don't miss it one bit.

EDIT:

KK, strands do matter as it is all about surface area. Electron flow is greater along the "skin" of the wire, then thru it and yes, I am a EE.

Granted at these power levels, the advantage is minimal, however more strands makes for more flexible wire.
 
Hey Saturn, you make nice braces. :D


Finnished making a good air shock out of two bad ones. Then installed new sway bar links. After that installed the new rear bags from lincolnboy (thanks) that are in a little better shape then my old ones. Can prolly get a few months out of them which helps right now.

After that I cut and then buffed the car with Sapperfires help and then debaged the neon. :)


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LOL at the car stereo stuff...

Been there, done that, RTTI Top Gun April 94. IASCA Installation Judge, 1993-1997.

Seen more stupid stuff then I care to remember. Don't miss it one bit.

EDIT:

KK, strands do matter as it is all about surface area. Electron flow is greater along the "skin" of the wire, then thru it and yes, I am a EE.

Granted at these power levels, the advantage is minimal, however more strands makes for more flexible wire.

HAH sounds like you were judging about the same time I was competing in IASCA, USAC. Those were Fun / Hell times. Traveling to 2 shows a weekend, Tuning til my ears bled, going blind looking at RTA's, optimizing path lengths, Laughing at the Richard Clark nut swingers, going over score sheets for any little mistake, watching Alma do the most quite 165db bump ever, 11 points from a 5th place finish and watching my best friend place.

To this day I refuse to listen to Flashdace.
 
Ugh. I remember the endless tuning to get a perfect 40 on the RTA. Hours upon hours of listening to white noise and watching the Audio Controll RTA trying to get every octave within a db of each other.

No thanks. :lol:
 
I LIKE tuning. I find it quite fun on a personal level. I'm a tweaker.

Anyways....

I hate you Bill.

Your car looks fu*king awesome.
 
I still have a pair of compression horns I had in my GN :p
Have the latest LEAP program and stuff from back in the day. I was the main Sub Enclosure builder at my shop doing all the Plexi Bandpass stuff. Love how the new Alpines can self diagnose interior dips and gains themselves now :cool:
 
When Team Supersound won the db drag back in 2001 and 2002, I knew Ali who owned the car and place before Nelson took it over (he's an ass), I lived a mile away from the Super Sound shop. They closed up0 and moved to a new area now. I was just a teen but I already loved car audio and knew my stuff, I had been installing for a couple years already. I got to be there for testing and tuning and help out with small stuff, I went to a couple of the events locally and helped them with their booths. One of the funnest experiences I ever took part in.
 
ask that guy Ed who used to come to my shop what happens when you take the top nut off the strut when its full of air still, lmfao he put my impact gun on it and pulled the trigger and the top steel cap of the assembly came off at mach 2 and nailed him right in his eye socket, i seriously thought he lost his eye, but he was lucky and didnt, after all the crap he pulled on me, i wish he had lost his eye.
 
yEAH i KNEW TO LET THE AIR OUT FIRST. :lol: (damn caps lock! :mad:


Anywho it seems to be holding fine. Car has been sitting for 9 hours with the air ride off and has not dropped at all.
I sat in the trunk for a bit cause thats what always caused the old bags to leak and they seem to be holding fine too.
Thanks again lincolnboy!


So I guess now I can install the ASHAM8. :D
 

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