Venting Cop's Cover

Frogman said:
Nope. I think my record still stands with the bigredapple thread, owlman. :D
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dang dude you got a stringer full!

how's about leaving a few for future generations?

i aint catchin nuthin in the mark 8 forum.
whatcha using fer bait these days?
still cat turds with mustard glaze?

I hear that mustard glaze leaves a good chumline that just brings em in from ALL OVER!

Or are you using that "special" Hank Hill Bass Bait?
 
Ok.. first one that can make a post from their blackberry while wearing NV goggles wins.


P.S. Frogman I think yer cheatin' wearing them glasses while yer fishin'.
that just aint right.
 
EDIT....... I just realized this is the LSforum. Just goes to show the problems with just searching for Frogman's latest trolling posts. You never know where your gonna be.




If anyone wants more information on these, let me know.

ITEM_BlackACXCoilCovers.jpg
 
^^ while those are a "neat in theory" item.
They wont help.

It might remove some heat from the area, but I can assure you there is far more heat available to replace the removed heat.

Do you really want to turn your coils into radiators?

While I agree that a steady bake isn't a good thing
I dont think transfering heat thru the area is a "FIX".
 
94m5 said:
You never know where your gonna be.




If anyone wants more information on these, let me know.
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that danged new post button drags me into the weirdest threads too.

but wherever it takes me, frogman is usually already been there.

you can see the n00bs flopping on the bank all over the place.
if frogman aint gonna eat em, atleast he could put em back in the danged water.
 
V6 LS engines do not have coil covers. And not too many folks have had them go bad on this forum. I had one bad coil at around 90K miles on my first 2000 LS and then the same thing happened on my second 2000 LS. I did a preventive 3-coil change on the right side of the engine since it is covered by the intake and that takes some pretty involved wrenching to get to those coils.

Again, stock V6 has no coil covers.
 
if the car does not have coil covers - the boots usually have a flange that 'seals' the spark plug well from letting water get down in there. THe LS V8 boots do not have this - so you would open to that issue.

There was an early 03+ TSB where water came in the passenger side cowl and got into the plug well - the sympton was "hard to start after a rain". The fix was to make sure the cop cover gasket was in place and that the under hood lip seal was in place.
 
XLRVIII said:
but yet you keep replying.

how does it feel to be drug along thru the water with a hook in your lip?

Frogman drops the bait and someome snatches it up EVERYTIME.

This is almost as funny as the squirell catapult!

Look, here comes ANOTHER ONE.. Shhhhh Be quiet.
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The squirel catapult had me in tears! KUDOS! Tommy & Frogman posting sarcastic remarks in the same thread. This could get very interesting if it continues. I haven't seen a kill from Tommy in awhile.
 
Fla02LS said:
If so then you really are the reincarnation of R-Bones.
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There's no way he could be the reincarnation of RBones--Frogman understands English grammar and spelling, and is capable of refuting an argument without resorting to insulting your mother. ;)
 
My understanding is that the failures are almost always caused by oil or water getting in the wells. I haven't heard that heat is an issue. Therefore I would think that opening up the covers in any way would only cause more failures.

Aluminum and Copper are good metals to use for heat sink applications. I imagine it would be very costly to manufacture such a thing for such a small market that actually did a decent job of transferring heat. It would almost have to be extruded with fins. Possibly you could do a non-extruded cover and then affix extruded fins to the cover with some nice thermal paste in between.
 
rainjacks said:
My understanding is that the failures are almost always caused by oil or water getting in the wells. I haven't heard that heat is an issue. Therefore I would think that opening up the covers in any way would only cause more failures.

Aluminum and Copper are good metals to use for heat sink applications. I imagine it would be very costly to manufacture such a thing for such a small market that actually did a decent job of transferring heat. It would almost have to be extruded with fins. Possibly you could do a non-extruded cover and then affix extruded fins to the cover with some nice thermal paste in between.
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All of the coil failures that I have had did not involve any oil or water. I am in a hot climate. I don't know if it's heat related or just manufacturing defects, but in my case (and I think most other gen II) it isn't oil.
 
I have had 2 coils fail, while mine is a gen 1 both coil were dry with no oil or water issues.

I'm in Saint Louis, not what I'd call a "hot" climate, but it does get hot here...
 
My coil failed after a race to 140. No oil or water in the plug wells. just replaced them all. Can they fail due to lack of fuel? The car cut fuel at a 140 right?
 
mine failed as well without oil or water in the well so i'm guessing it was heat.
you could probably mount the coil externally and run a short plug wire down to the plug. you would need a straight boot that can keep the water out of the well. i think there are plug wire kits you can build that would work.
the coils will still be hot though since there is so much radiant heat. i can burn my hand on my strut tower brace. that heat would probably just load any kind of heat sink you mount a coil to and deliver more energy into the coil than by just mounting the coil out in the open. its probably still better than being enclosed right over the cylinder. perhaps a shield could deflect some of that heat away as long as there's not a good conduction path to the coil. wrap them with fiberglass? i see it getting messy quick.
better yet, bring them inside the car with the AC running and run really long wires:p
 
If you find oil in the plug wells, the chances are very high that they're not long for this world, but plenty of coils have failed with no traces of oil in the wells. Nobody really knows if it's heat, design defects, a combination of the two, or something else entirely.
 
All of my failures, which total 18 coils havent been due to water or oil. Its been theorized that the covers enhance the heat build up and lead to there failure but from what i have been told is its just a design flaw in the construction of the coil itself. Also the rubber boots tend to get pinsize holes in them that allow for the coil to short out against the head itself. The entire engineering is horribly flawed and i really dont think there is a definate fix for this problem. Its basically drive them as long as you can until the next misfire which is inevitable.
 
Ok froggy dont hate on me for this, but if it is heat that kills them could you possibly add a suction and a push fan to each cover such as a small computer fan, we usedto do this to amps so we could bridge them way down and not melt the boards.:cool:and dwell would have to do with setting a point style ignition system. wheres my 10$'s kk
 
When you really get down to the whole venting thoery you gotta take into effect that the underhood temps are extremely high. Venting covers could possibly just allow more of the excessive underhood heat to make its way thru the vents to the coils. I think a different approach could be to somehow vent the actual hood itself to allow the engine compartment heat build-up to exit and thus keep the underhood temps down and provide airflow. There are multiple cars that use hood loovers to do just that....remove excessive underhood temperatures, some are just cosmetic but some are actually functional. If the underhood temps can be lowered then the heat surrounding the coils/covers would also be lowered. All in all i think its just a losing battle all the way around.
 
Fla02LS said:
When you really get down to the whole venting thoery you gotta take into effect that the underhood temps are extremely high. Venting covers could possibly just allow more of the excessive underhood heat to make its way thru the vents to the coils. I think a different approach could be to somehow vent the actual hood itself to allow the engine compartment heat build-up to exit and thus keep the underhood temps down and provide airflow. There are multiple cars that use hood loovers to do just that....remove excessive underhood temperatures, some are just cosmetic but some are actually functional. If the underhood temps can be lowered then the heat surrounding the coils/covers would also be lowered. All in all i think its just a losing battle all the way around.
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that actually might be a good idea, because heat rises, so if the heat has a place to go, it wouldn't get as hot in the engine area, especially considering everything important in there is made from plastic and was designed to break so people would have to pay big money to fix it

hood louvers would be a great thing to do, thats next haha
 
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