subs and amp

Im thinkin they mean the dividers of the port, if you look youll see lil slots on the bottom... It the the same place that has the other groundshaker box so ima keep callin so i can get details on both those boxs


Yeah, it's port dividers and not internal dividers. If you can get in touch with them and get all the specs, take the total air volume and divide by 3 and you want to stay close to 1.5 and I think 1.6 is pretty close. I just don't know how big the difference would be with 1.13 when you need 1.5 but I do like the last box best. The height of mine is what makes it hard to get in and out but mine is made taller because my center sub is offset higher. Width is what you need to be keeping an eye on. I don't know really how wide it is from side to side in there but I have an inch , maybe 2 on both sides, if that much.
 
42" will never go in there slick, as much as I would like to see it go, it won't. I looked at mine last night and I actually don't even have an inch on either side and I know mine isn't near 42" wide. The first one is giving you a ported volume of 1.13 and the 42" one would be giving you 1.6 :(
 
slick, have you measured from well to well yet? I can't remember if 38" will slide in or not but 1.5 is the size and you found it. It's your decision but I'm liking both of those but I guess it's because both are the same lol. I like deepness in bass myself and even though I have a vented box, I have the settings in the deck and on the amp if I don't want deepness. We all have our own preferences and you're the one that is going to be rolling with it, not us. Some people like sealed boxes. I don't because I can't get what I want out of a sealed box. Round inserted ports IMO are old school looking I guess. I do like the round ported box that you found but I'm all for vented, if it fits.
 
Interesting about the poly fill. That was most likely why Laser was suggesting to do the filling on the round ported box because it was a 1.13 and not the 1.5 that you needed. I don't think filling mine would help anything, not really sure.
Now I have to get back on ebay and find some more 4 gauge ring terminals because the ones i ordered weren't in stock and he refunded my paypal account. I need for all this stuff to get here around the same time and he just messed me up.
 
You should run a series-parallel config, run two subs in parallel which will give you 2 ohms and then run the third in series with the other two, bringing your total load to 6 ohms. Lower impedance = more power out of amp!

The more I think about the drawing you sent, which I'm not complaining about btw, I still don't see how 6 ohms is coming out of that because when you run a sub in series, you're bringing the ohms up double. If it's what I think, the first one would be 8 ohms and the last two in parallel would be 2 ohms making it 10 ohms total. Right now I have it in 12 ohms.
 
most car audio speakers that are 4 ohms...1 4 ohm plus 2 2ohm is where the 6 ohms comes from :)
 
Since you are coming into this not reading all of it, there was this box, it had three 12 ohm JL subs inside it and they were wired in a parallel configuration which was giving the amp a 4 ohm load. Now, the same box has 3 new JL subs in it which are 4 ohm each. The amp in question can't be wired parallel with three 4 ohm subs or it will be pushing them in a 1.34 ohm load. The amp is only stable down to 2 ohms. Right now they are wired in series with a 12 ohm load and we were trying to figure out another way to wire them to bring the impedance down and bring the amps power up more.
 
car speakers are 4 ohms not 8

You should read the whole thread before making that comment. Car speakers come in many different loads, more so on subs, so that you can better match an amps comfertable opperating range.

Nolimit, when you series two 4 ohm subs for an 8 ohm load and then parallel a 4 ohm sub you will be splitting the difference between the higher and lower load which in your carse would be 6 ohms. :)


The poly fill is to help the sub think the box is bigger then it is. The Boston G5 10" works best in a 1.3 cubic foot ported box tuned to 38-42hz port size. With a 1.13 box all he needs is 1/2-3/4" thick fibre fill glued to the sides and bottom of the box to get the right size. He just has to make sure there is no fibre fill directly under the port so that it doesnt mess up the tuning freequency.
 
no, I read it, but misunderstood how you wired it...I was thinking the wiring was different..

2 speakers wire at 2ohm, one at 4 equals 6...but nevermind

wow...and they say the LS guys are quick to jump on sombody...lol

i see I typed incorrectly...maybe thats the misinterpretation...I'll fix it.

as you were :)
 
I thought the pic was putting 1 into series and 2 into parallel. 1 into series would cause 4 ohms to go to 8 ohms. 2 into parallel would cause the two 4 ohm subs to come down to 2 ohms, giving me 10 ohms. You know how I get confused sometimes so look at the pic closely because I did this time lol and I'm seeing a 10 ohm load or 8 at the lowest.
 
You have two subs seriesed together for an 8 ohm load. So as far as the amp is concerned its a single speaker at 8 ohms. You then parallel a 4 ohm speaker with that. You add the 8 ohms plus the 4 ohm sub and that equals 12 ohms. You then divide that by total number of speakers paraleled together (2 in your case) and that equals 6 ohms cause 12 divided by 2 is 6. :)
 
no, I read it, but misunderstood how you wired it...I was thinking the wiring was different..

2 speakers wire at 2ohm, one at 4 equals 6...but nevermind

wow...and they say the LS guys are quick to jump on sombody...lol

i see I typed incorrectly...maybe thats the misinterpretation...I'll fix it.

as you were :)

Outkast, did you know they sell subs that are 2 ohm, 4 ohm, 8 ohm and 12, ohm? If you take two 2 ohm subs and wired them parallel, you would then have a 1 ohm load on the amp. One 4 ohm does not equal 6 ohms :rolleyes: it equals 4 ohms. Most amps are able to handle up to 40 to 60 ohm loads with no problem, it's when you try to run one that isn't stable down to 1 ohm that can cause the problem. The subs could care less.
 
You then divide that by total number of speakers paraleled together (2 in your case) and that equals 6 ohms cause 12 divided by 2 is 6. :)

Ok, I'm just gonna wire it that way by this weekend but I still don't get it. It's the one wired in series that's throwing me off. It should be 8 ohm wired like that. Maybe I got it all wrong but I do understand the 2 paralleled being brought down to 2 ohms. I got that part all too well. :D Just puzzled on the first one.
 
Trust me dude, I've been doing this for awhile now, if you're not convinced, wire them up and then take an ohm meter to the leads, you'll see for yourself. As for how much power you'll get back, you'll essentially be doubling power by halving the load on the amp.
 
Actually, if it's calculated out, it comes out to 2.6667 Ohms, if you amp is rated at only 4 ohms, then this may not be the correct configuration for your speakers.
 
The amp is rated stable down to 2 ohms and now I understand how it's coming down to 6 ohms. The first sub wired straight through is close to 4.25 ohms or that's what I was coming up with and then the other two being in parallel is at 2 ohms. My amp supposedly is capable of 825 watts bridged at a 4 ohm load. The subs I have are only 150 watt rms so with this latest wiring diagram, it should all be the perfect match for all three 10's. Anyway, I do understand it now. I just kept thinking the first sub wired in series would be an 8 ohm load and then the other two parallel would be a 2 ohm load but now I know that's not the case. Normally I'm not slow with this sort of thing but I have my days I guess. :)
 
Much thanks to you and Laser both or I probably would have had a fried amp because I was going with parallel all the way lol. All I got in today was the 2 gauge Fosgate power wire. 6 more things coming and then I'll rewire the 10's. Right now I have a 7 yo that's sick with an average temp of 101 to 102 since Monday morning. I think I finally have him steady now, close to 100. So, stereo's really haven't been on my mind that much.

slick, you better get ready because you have this same issue coming at you unless you get a 1 ohm stable amp. :D
 

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