subs and amp

LOL!! 2011, ur funny haha.. let damn sure hope not. Ive looked around online and the only 10's i can find are http://techronics.com/caraudio_3159...-450-Watts-Car-Audio-Subwoofer.html?aff=72182
http://cgi.ebay.com/NU-BOSTON-G510-...Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item2a017fc54a

Thats the best ive found so far... but its settled again im gonna do what ive always wanted and have 3 excellent sounding subs versus one... beast.. Im still searchin for boxs but the upward port seems to be the best so far. Most of the triple sub enclosures seem to be sealed. Now would it be stupid to screw around with the rear deck? When i had the interior apart i noticed the 2 ports type deallys but would i be better off not touching it (aside from removed insulation)

Also im assuming your reffering to poly fill more less or is there something more specific id look for? Now i really would like the upward facing ports but ill excersise all my options by posting and lettin you judge :D Im also gonna see if i can make contact with the company to see if i can get dimensions and tuning of the aero port box

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-HOLE-10-PORTE...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4837f1ea4e
http://www.brightstarcaraudio.com/P...E-10-PORTED-SUBWOOFER-ENCLOSURE-BOX-p144.html

Well that sums it up lol ill tryn get som quotes on a custom box. Pretty much all the ones i find are real thin MDF
 
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5/8's should be thick enough. It's pretty much standard thickness unless someone goes with 3/4. The 10's from ebay would be the way to go simply because of shipping prices. I'm more for the vented but that's just me. I never liked round inserted ports. Also, I wouldn't mess with the rear deck. Just remove the insulation you see up above the rack in the holes and the black board behind the seat. That should let enough in.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280421622831&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Also free shipping and cheaper.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350269626156&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Amp for subs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330369031322&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

4-channel amp to match

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300365704725&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Deck you wanted

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-0-Gauge-0-AWG...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4838334797

Wiring kit for subs

You want a cap, distribution block? That way both amps could be ran from the dist block in the trunk instead of buying all that wire and running all of it. You might have enough left over to use for the other amp.
 
looking at the two G5 links i posted they are both from the same company lol Ebay (techtronics) 168 free shipping and Techtronics STORE is 148 plus thirty for shipping
 
Well as long as those G5's on ebay last ill be purchasing 3 next fri cause i can only afford 2 and 1/2 now lol, and hopefully being as the ebay Techtronics has 4 left and thats not the actual techtronics inventory..... my luck it is... but thats the only place thats gottem
 
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Don't feel bad slick, I got the new JL's in yesterday just to find out I got the wrong ones. See, my amp is 4 ohm stable when bridged and the 10's I just bought are 4 ohm. I had three 12 ohm 10's in that box when I first bought all that stuff and then later down the road, I traded one of the 10's out of the box because someone was going to pawn a box that had a newer looking JL 10" in it. I didn't pay attention at the time but it turns out it was a 4 ohm.

So all this time I have been beating two 12 ohm and one 4 ohm subs but now I have three brand new JL 10" 4 ohm subs and my amp is not stable to connect them parallel like I had them before or it will be at a 1.33 ohm load. My amp is only stable down to 4 ohm bridged. Luckily it has more power than I need.

Now I either have to hook them up in a series (and lose power) or get a mono block amp. I really don't care to be hitting so hard that my moon roof is jumping up and down but if I do this series hook up, I'm going to lose a lot of power and luckily I have some to lose. Right now they are parallel but I only played it for less than one minute and no higher than 4 or 5 because it was so late when I got them in.

Laser has sent me a diagram of another way to hook them up that will give me 3.33 ohm load which I'm sure my amp will handle but I have tried finding that connection all over Google and can't. I trust what he's showing me but I also got to make sure I don't burn something up. I don't want one sub getting more power than 2 others also. I'm confused lol.
 
EDIT: DONT DO WHAT LASER SAID, HES AN IDIOT!!

Sorry mang IDK what the hell I was thinking. You can do what I showed you with two 4 ohm subs and a single 8 ohm sub but not three 4 ohm subs. One will be louder then the other two. I am so sorry, I forgot ohms law. :(
With your amp you will ONLY be able to wire them in series. Guess its a good time to get that JL slash series. :D
 
With the subs I have, I think the 500/1 would be best because the 1000/1 would be too much for them. I think I'll go for the series hook up tonight and see what I have. I have to move so much stuff just to get a sub out but it's gotta be done. See, if I buy a new amp, then that means I have to get another 4 channel amp to match. I don't like things being uneven and I'm also thinking of taking the caps out too. They look good back there but I can't say they're actually doing anything other than looking good.
 
Buy one more and run four in a sealed box. Then the amp could be run at 4 ohms mono. :D
 
LaserSVT said:
Buy one more and run four in a sealed box. Then the amp could be run at 4 ohms mono. :D
Click to expand...

I ain't buying another. I still have one 4 ohm left that I took out lol. I just got all three new ones rewired in series and I can not tell that any power has been lost. It seems more powerful than before but it could be because these subs are new and tight. I had to remove the amps to get to the bottom 3 screws on the two outer subs so when I reinstalled them, I moved them up closer to the box. I also moved the cap on the left up a little because it was down further than the one on the right. These new ones are really sounding off pretty good. Better than I expected and hitting harder than what I took out, so yes, I couldn't be happier. Took a few pics with all the blue LED's on. They come on when I raise the trunk lid instead of the normal little white light.

NewJLSubs001.jpg


NewJLSubs002.jpg


NewJLSubs003.jpg


NewJLSubs004.jpg


NewJLSubs005.jpg


NewJLSubs006.gif


One with the flash on

Next I'm going to do away with the 2 wire power and run either 0 or 2 gauge wire back to the distribution block that I just got and then run two 4 gauge wires from that to the amps and I'm done. I was going to do something drastic in the back to turn the subs around the other way and get inside the trunk and cut out a slot just big enough to come through the back seat. The foam would have to be cut out just right. I was going to use the 93 seat that I have in the attic btw. Cut a slot in the leather so that 4 sides of the leather could be folded back and look neat, not sloppy. I'm just too old for all this so I'm leaving it as is. I have a transmission to J-Mod and install before I end up in neutral like a few of the others here have been.
 
It should be louder. You only lost about 30% of your power but the new subs are 5 db more efficient and their Fs is lower so they play deeper cleaner. Remember though, with JL subs you cant crank them untill you have burned in the coil for a few hours at moderate power levels.

Looks great!
 
Thanks Laser and yeah, I'll give them time to get used to me. As much as I play this thing, they may never be broke in. Right now they have about 10 minutes on them, if that. I'll try to go ahead and get the burn in out of the way the next time I go somewhere.

If you run across a deal on some 2 AWG on the bay, let me know. $1.68 a ft. is the best I have found so far. I think 18 foot should do it and I would like for the same place to have 4 gauge too so I get it all at the same time. I have a 2 gauge firewall grommet and everything else, just need some wire now.

Remove caps or no?
 
nolimit94VIII said:
Thanks Laser and yeah, I'll give them time to get used to me. As much as I play this thing, they may never be broke in. Right now they have about 10 minutes on them, if that. I'll try to go ahead and get the burn in out of the way the next time I go somewhere.

If you run across a deal on some 2 AWG on the bay, let me know. $1.68 a ft. is the best I have found so far. I think 18 foot should do it and I would like for the same place to have 4 gauge too so I get it all at the same time. I have a 2 gauge firewall grommet and everything else, just need some wire now.

Remove caps or no?
Click to expand...

You should run a series-parallel config, run two subs in parallel which will give you 2 ohms and then run the third in series with the other two, bringing your total load to 6 ohms. Lower impedance = more power out of amp!
 
96hotrodlincoln said:
You should run a series-parallel config, run two subs in parallel which will give you 2 ohms and then run the third in series with the other two, bringing your total load to 6 ohms. Lower impedance = more power out of amp!
Click to expand...


And one of the subs will not get pounded harder? If not, can you show a pic of that connection? I'm all for more power to gain back what I lost in series but I want all 3 to get equal treatment.
 
Got this so far and I'll be close to having all I need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170377356111&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130341678369&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380066716197&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320327939373

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140345275776&viewitem=

Now I want some good 4 gauge ground wire and I need a good fuse block for the 2 gauge wire with a 80 to 100 amp fuse. I think that should finish me off.

For ground wire, might go with this, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300365545372&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I should have some left over to do some additional grounding for the car itself. Haven't made a decision on the fuse block yet. I might have one already and don't know it. Might just need to up the fuse.
 
oh.... well earlier it was at 400, figured it was gonna be jacked up soon... oh well
 
slickemhoundd said:
oh.... well earlier it was at 400, figured it was gonna be jacked up soon... oh well
Click to expand...


I like the box slick. Had to put it at you when I seen it but that amp isn't a loss. That's way too much power. Shoot for the 1500, hold on, I did find something that you might like. One might work for you and you could sell the other.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0423240418&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Hooking 3 10's up though isn't going to work but those two amps are strong.
 
What about a zx1500.1 (kicker)? Its rated at 1500 watts at 2ohm vs the rf which is 1500 at 1 ohm and 1000 at 2 ohm.Also now looking into this http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=3&I=41 what exactly am i looking into. DO i want to run these subs at 1.33ohm? Will it be safe? Same thing with 12ohm, and how would either of them effect my power and sound? Also the subs are svc 4ohm
 
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Mine are SVC also slick and you would be best with the RF amp and yes, it would be perfectly safe to run them at 1.34. Nothing will happen to the subs and the RF amp can run stable down to 1 ohm so you would be all good with that. Running all 3 subs in parallel off that RF amp would be slammin back there. Subs will be fine at 1.34 ohms.

I had to do the 12 ohm series run because my amp isn't mono block, it's a 2 channel that's bridged. My amp is stable down to 2 ohms but not 1.34 so I didn't want to chance frying it just to run parallel.
 
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