Starting to get pissed....

ripped camel

ripped camel

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first it was the battery issue that I thought was a crank position sensor. Then it was cel for the O2's. Then it was a bad tune that ran my car to 7000rpms. Now my car is dead AGAIN! I love this car, but man I've NEVER had a car that had this many issues!

The battery light was on so I took it to Advance auto and all the tests came up ok, but the battery was a little low (even though it's less than a week old). So I convinced them to throw in a new battery again. Car ran fine, but battery light still remained on. Then on my way into my driveway the car went nuts....Check traction control, abs light on, check air ride, check charging system, then the lights dimmed....then nothing. WTF?

The test they ran said the alternator was fine. It said it ran 13.82v with no load and 13.09v with a load. What gives?

To be clear I have no aftermarket stereo equipment, I don't have the air ride hooked up anymore and the battery is brand new. So what could possibly be causing this?

If it helps the car squealed twice when the rpms went to 7000rpms when I uploaded the bad tune. That is when all of the issues started. I am leaning towards alternator but this test show its running fine. I don't want to just throw money at the car because I'm not exactly swimming in green right now.
 
Alt is weak. Mine hits 13.8 under full load and stays at 14.1 during idle.
 
ripped camel said:
first it was the battery issue that I thought was a crank position sensor. Then it was cel for the O2's. Then it was a bad tune that ran my car to 7000rpms. Now my car is dead AGAIN! I love this car, but man I've NEVER had a car that had this many issues!

The battery light was on so I took it to Advance auto and all the tests came up ok, but the battery was a little low (even though it's less than a week old). So I convinced them to throw in a new battery again. Car ran fine, but battery light still remained on. Then on my way into my driveway the car went nuts....Check traction control, abs light on, check air ride, check charging system, then the lights dimmed....then nothing. WTF?

The test they ran said the alternator was fine. It said it ran 13.82v with no load and 13.09v with a load. What gives?

To be clear I have no aftermarket stereo equipment, I don't have the air ride hooked up anymore and the battery is brand new. So what could possibly be causing this?

If it helps the car squealed twice when the rpms went to 7000rpms when I uploaded the bad tune. That is when all of the issues started. I am leaning towards alternator but this test show its running fine. I don't want to just throw money at the car because I'm not exactly swimming in green right now.
Click to expand...
ALT or voltage regulator, 7000rpm bad tune
 
Sorry its the ALT.
These cars are picky as hell when it comes to ALT output.
Needs to be on the plus side of 14 volts

It gave you the classic light show before the car died.

Call Max.
 
HAHAHA! Light show...that it did ;)

Now how do I make sure it's not the voltage regulator before I buy an alternator?

I'm looking at getting a PA performance alternator. They are 100% new and not a reman... thoughts?
http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=57

It is well known in the Mustang world...at least with the guys I talked to. Anyone every try one in a mark?
 
kustomizingkid said:
Please don't listen buy anything but an oem alternator... really, knock yourself out!
Click to expand...

Aren't the ones you guys usually knock remans? Did you go to the site and look at what I'm speaking of? I'm not trying to be a know-it-all here, I just was curious if anyone has tried this brand as they use all upgraded, non re-man stuff.

I was under the impression that there were other companies that offer high end reliable alternators out there. In my search I saw frogman mentioned a aftermarket company that was good (I think he said the guys name that runs the place was brad, but can't find the thread now). My point is how can you tell what companies suck and which are good?

Again not trying to argue, I'm trying to educate myself on the facts.
 
Here are the facts as I see it... remans from everywhere else suck, the OEM units do not... and the price is about the exact same...

The only reason I see for not putting an oem one back on is if you have a crazy sound system or some other crazy big electronic draw added to your system...

It just seems like you are trying to pull an Abelincoln on us...
 
kustomizingkid said:
Here are the facts as I see it... remans from everywhere else suck, the OEM units do not... and the price is about the exact same...

The only reason I see for not putting an oem one back on is if you have a crazy sound system or some other crazy big electronic draw added to your system...

It just seems like you are trying to pull an Abelincoln on us...
Click to expand...

forgive me if I'm dense today, but what is an Abelincoln? You mean like I'm lying? If so about what?
 
Abelincoln is a kid with a mark viii that never listened to anyones advice and then came back crying cause his :q:q:q:q didn't work. Though it actually worked most of the time he just fixed the wrong things half the time.
 
O'Reilly's carries the OEM Motorcraft alternator with lifetime warranty BUT, it's not reman by Motorcraft. It has cheap parts inside such as the brushes and diodes. I went through 3 of them. They also carry a reman OEM Motorcraft with a one year warranty but it has all Motorcraft parts replaced as it should but it does cost more. I have looked at these alternators side by side before and there was a difference.

The lifetime warranty alt was reman'd by Ultima with :q:q:q:q parts. Jamie is right, your voltage regulator is built into the alternator. Just giving you another option.
 
Doesn't Max still carry 100% new Motorcraft alts? That's what I'd be looking into.
 
In my experience, I bought an alternator from the dealership I worked at in florida. That was before the price went down(this is about 4 years ago) and the alternator was about 400 dollars. I put the alternator in the car and it lasted just over a year, it had a 1 year warranty. So, I lost out on that. I learned my lesson. I know Autozone has junk, however they have a lifetime warranty. I went through 2 alternators in a 2 week period before the 3rd was any good. However, that being said the 3rd one has lasted 4 years. I personally was willing to buy the junk alternator because it is very easy to replace and has a lifetime warranty.

Also, the AZ alternator was about 200ish.
 
Great advice thanks guys. Does anyone know where or what type of fitting is needed to get that top bolt out of the cover that goes over the coolant tubes. It looks gigantic and square. Is that a Ford specialty tool, or can I get that basically anywhere?

Oh, and KK I'm definitely not trying to pull an abelincoln. Every time you guys have said something was wrong I followed your advice. Half the time It ended up being something else, but it's hard to diagnose things over the internet so no biggie. My point is I've followed advice nearly every time on here. I just try to delve deeper into the problem now to ensure I don't end up with any more extras lying around ;)
 
ripped camel said:
Great advice thanks guys. Does anyone know where or what type of fitting is needed to get that top bolt out of the cover that goes over the coolant tubes. It looks gigantic and square. Is that a Ford specialty tool, or can I get that basically anywhere?
Click to expand...


either im not awake yet...or i simply cannot figure out what your talking about.

oh..your talking about the 97 only alternator cover?

would a 3/8s ratchet take it off or is it 1/4 inch like the crossover tube plug?

can you snap a pic?

hang in there d00d, like you said diagnosing over the internet is tough.
the same thing happens when you try E-TUNING, as you've discovered.
 
ripped camel said:
Great advice thanks guys. Does anyone know where or what type of fitting is needed to get that top bolt out of the cover that goes over the coolant tubes. It looks gigantic and square. Is that a Ford specialty tool, or can I get that basically anywhere?
Click to expand...

XLRVIII said:
either im not awake yet...or i simply cannot figure out what your talking about.

oh..your talking about the 97 only alternator cover?

would a 3/8s ratchet take it off or is it 1/4 inch like the crossover tube plug?

can you snap a pic?

hang in there d00d, like you said diagnosing over the internet is tough.
the same thing happens when you try E-TUNING, as you've discovered.
Click to expand...

The beauty cover takes a 1/4" extension to remove.
 
XLRVIII said:
either im not awake yet...or i simply cannot figure out what your talking about.

oh..your talking about the 97 only alternator cover?

would a 3/8s ratchet take it off or is it 1/4 inch like the crossover tube plug?

can you snap a pic?

hang in there d00d, like you said diagnosing over the internet is tough.
the same thing happens when you try E-TUNING, as you've discovered.
Click to expand...

P2120402.gif


P2120401.jpg
 
try here, I bought a 220 amp for about $225 shipped about 3 years ago, I also installed a new battery (at the time) and have had no problems since-1 year warranty, I think. The OEM's are only about 120-130 amps, which sounds ike alot but really don't seem to get it as they get older-when started up, the demands on the alternator are pretty heavy with air ride, auto lights (if you use them) and other stuff. These things do full output if needed at only 1200 rpm's and 100 amps at just 600 rpms. come wth overdrive pulleys.

this is a 200 amp:

http://www.db-starter-alternator.co... Output 200 Amp Alternator 4.6L 96 97 98 7781

this is a 220:

http://www.dbelectrical.com/Items/h... Output 220 Amp Alternator 4.6L 96 97 98 7781
 
Thanks guys.

DLF I posted the pic before I refreshed the page so I didn't see your response. Sorry about that, I'll go get a 1/4" extension.

Driller have you used a PA performance alt yet? I heard they are quite stout unless you spin past a certain shaft rpm (16,000 shaft rpms).
 
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