Sapperfires 93 blue on blue progress thread

Done! Didnt take pics of the fluid filling though. :lol: We took her out for a spin and its night and day as far as handling and ride goes. Car is MUCH nicer now. Does not seem to be spewing all over my driveway anymore eaither. :D

So just a shot of everything back together.

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So anyone want to buy some nice quality, slightly used parts? :D :p




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Nice work!
I bet its nicer....a lot nicer.

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I am sure that is a casting line, If that was a crack you would know it.
 
Well today Sap decided to tackle his beast and bring her back to her former glory.... man what a bitch.
This weekends projects are to swap the K-member, change the oil pan gasket, change the oil cooling jacket gasket, swap the shocks, swap the struts, change power steering hose and do an oil change. Of course things never go as planed on these cars and she decided to throw us a couple curve balls.
The rear strut rod bushings are shot but fortunatly he thought ahead and bought a set before coming out here to BFE. The can not being happy with no parts store runs decided that it would reward us with a broken engine mount. :( Any of you that have had to replace these before know the joys of trying to locate one anywhere. Fortunatly I located a parts store that had one and it was only 52 miles away. :lol:
So we are no back after the journey of getting it and will resume tomorrow.


Here she is back up in the air and us multitasking by working on both cars at once.
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Thanks for the alt idea!
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Here you can see just how messed up his cradle was. When I removed the front brace it almost shot off like a spring.

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These may be worn out, not sure.

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One of the many leaks that will be addressed, the infamous power steering line leak. Im sure 50% of us have had to deal with this leak.
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Just a nasty mess but soon to be nice again.

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And the oil pan leak:
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Finnaly lowering the cradle:

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And the old with the ...... well, old.

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Just a shot of the inside. Oil pickup was clean but engine shows signs of early on poor maintenence. Did a couple back to back oil changes to clean it out and shes getting refilled with Synthetic. Engine runs like a raped ape so I am sure shes fine.
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Fuggin failed mount. :mad:
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And $100 and 104 miles latter:
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Next up was the struts. PITA getting the dang spring compressor in there.
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And all pretty:
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Both rear shocks were completly blown and the rear shock mounts were shot. Also one shocks lower bushing was about gone.

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FIRE FIRE FIRE!!
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i would of just used the old school meth. use the weight of the car to compress the spring on the strut
 
Nope but if you want to come by and bribe Sapperfire I bet he would. Hes changed his 3 or 4 times in the past month so I am sure hes pretty good at in now. :lol: Hell he even did it in a Starbucks parking lot. :D
 
Nope but if you want to come by and bribe Sapperfire I bet he would. Hes changed his 3 or 4 times in the past month so I am sure hes pretty good at in now. :lol: Hell he even did it in a Starbucks parking lot. :D

pully is mad and screaming. so i might as well change the whole compressor ( was just going to replace the pully) looks like he is missing his fender well cover too...... ford only has the driver side...:mad:
 
i can remove and replace the AC compressor in about 20 minutes now, very easy with the proper tools and doing the right steps
1. raise the front of the Mark enough to get under it, and turn wheels all the way to the right

2. remove cooling fan plug from fan and remove 2 8mm bolts from either side of fan shroud

3. remove fan

4. release refrigerant into the o-zone by depressing the valve in the ac line with the black cap

5. next remove the upper ac compressor bolt, this bolt is a 10mm, but you will need a 3/8 drive wratchet and a ft long extension. this bolt can be easily removed by going through the passenger side fender well and above the engine craddle.

6. the lower 2 bolts can now be removed, 1st the outter ( closest to radiator) the from brace bar run directly over this bolt so its a bit tight, best to use a 10mm angle head or flex head gear wrech, and the same for the 3rd AC bolt

7. now youve got those 2 bolts loose, push them back into the bores a bit and itll give you clearance to wiggle the compressor out some

8. remove the lines from the compressor, the bolt here does not have to the removed all the way, just loosen it about 1/2in and the lines should pull from the seat, best access to that bolt is with a 3/8 wratchet, 1 ft extenison and a wobbly, 10mm. slide extension down behind the breather box and under the HP AC line and down to the bolt, the closer you can wiggle that compressor towards the radiator the easier itll be to get to

Note: you can get the AC compressor from any salvage 96-newer Crown Vic, Grand Mar, (all years, Mark Viii), Town Car
NOTE NOTE.. if you are not going to have the AC system recharged.. you MUST leave the AC compressor unplugged due to a sensor that can cause the clutch to engage even if youve commanded the AC off from the Climate Control
Failure to leave unplugged until AC charge could ( strong possibility) result in the AC Clutch engaging without the needed oil in the system, this will burn the bearings in the new clutch and then you get to do it again

Insert the 2 bottom bolts into their bores and wiggle AC compressor into its hole (because of the length of these bolts and the lack of room above the engine craddle and sway bar)

slide lines around the bolt and place lines down into the compressor, tighten the bolt making sure the lines stay in seat

if you do this in a StarBucks parking lot, theres a high chance someone will bring you a coffee
 
Nice write up so for a cup of joe you'll replace my ac compressor
 
That a good write so for a cup of joe you'll replace my compressor
 
That a good write so for a cup of joe you'll replace my compressor

Replace, for a cup of Joe??? How bout a bowl... You drive it to me or fly me to you... And I don't do system vac/recharge..I just do recharge and hope for the best
 
I have a post in the club chapter about lap for charity @ the texas motorspeed way. It be great for a DFW GTG
 
Wow! looks like yall are in for a god time!

I've replaced my comp once and i have had the old one out....forgot why. but def a pain,but after a few tries,ive gotten to be quick with it myself. :D

So....the new stuffeses,what was the costses?
 
Reason for asking is that I am in need of new rotors,they are scarred and I have a piece missing on the left rear. Note to retarded friend: Brake rotors are not good for prying.
 
Its $190 for the kit with rotors and pads all from Power Stop. :)
 
or you can have my old ones really cheap...like...free
but you hae to take the rest of Bills garbage with you
 
:lol: The brake lines cost as much as the pads and rotors.
 
Minor update:

Installed my old exhaust on his car. Going to remove the nice tips off my green car so he can replace the bent ones on the setup I gave him. Also just ordered a X-pipe cause it dont sound too great at WOT. Car sounds like a GM 350. :lol:
X-pipe should help though.

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Ooooo did someone say free?!
Are they drilled & slotted? And what crap?
How much would shipping cost to 71203?
 
Ooooo did someone say free?!
Are they drilled & slotted? And what crap?
How much would shipping cost to 71203?
It was a joke. They are the original rotors and pads from 1992 when the car was built. :lol:
 

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