Mechanic says computer module bad?

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guinnessman

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Hey guys so a couple days ago my 96 mark wouldn't start i checked electrical connections, alternator, battery and they are both only 6 months old also. I had roadside tow the car cause i had work yay and the mechanic told me the electrical system is fine but the computer module is bad, it's a 270$ part with one year warranty (plus $150 labor). He said it's in the dash also? I know i'm probably getting raped on this one lol but i work 60 hours a week so i had no choice but bring it to him. :(

Now you guys have a ton more knowledge then myself, let me know if that sounds right. He said the computer module runs everything, the windows, radio, and everything else. Maybe thats the reason why my a/c keeps going off and on also lol.

PS the main problem again was it wouldn't start even with 2 different battery charger packs hooked up to it, it wouldn't crank either. What i have to do is start the car and let the front pump up to proper height, then the check air ride system light comes on and i have to shut car, open door and start again to let the back pump up. I've been doing this for the past 3 months (yeah i know i need to replace with coil conversion). When i went to start it again it didn't start and this is what happened, then the electrical system died out. Sometimes my electric would work like lights and radio, but when i started it i heard one click and then all electrical didnt work.
 
I highly doubt the PCM is bad. If it were, $150 labor to replace it is highway robbery. I would be surprised if changing the computer fixed your problem.

It is more likely a charging issue or possible a bad VCLM along with a failing air suspension.
 
Ya. Very odd a computer would go bad. And $150 to swap out something my grandma could even do in under a half hour is a huge scam.

Run away from them. NOW!

If its the computer (which by the way does NOT control the windows) then Jamie probably has one. The code is found on the computer. Something like EPB2. Computer is silver box by break peddle. Sits an an angle. Has a HUGE bundle of wires coming out of it. Its best to match codes but its not needed.

If its not cranking it could be the starter solenoid, ignition switch or.... well thats about it.

First thing I would do is check fuses, both the ones inside (can be seen when driver door is open on dash) and the high power ones under the hood (inside black box near battery). THEN I would start looking at other issues.
 
I can say that I did take a 93 ECM that was working and tried to put it into the 94 and it would not start. I put the 94 back in and then it cranked right back up. Somehow, during the wreck of the 93 on the pass side, it must have damaged the computer. The drivers side had no damage at all so apparently, they are fragile. I'm not saying that your computer is bad but I can say that a bad one will not let the car start. Sometimes things fail.

The price you're paying is high though. Only takes 5 minutes to swap the computer out. 10 min tops.
 
The computer doesn't necessarily need to be the same 4 character PCM code but they do need to be from the same strategy definition.
 
150 to change the computer lmao!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 wow man, its a 10 mm bolt and 3 seconds to swap. go to another mechanic and first get the thing diagnosed correctly.
 
Ya know what i would but i'm in a jam lol. I have literally NO ONE to help me out :-( so looks like i gotta bite the bullet and get some vaseline for my butt. I'm at least happy that friends from work are giving me a lift i feel like such a moocher.

It's funny how it fired up fine, i let the front pump up, then i shut it to restart so the back pumped up, at that point it didn't crank and i had NO electric. I checked the fuses nothing is burnt out.

Thanks again for everyones help.
 
guinnessman said:
Ya know what i would but i'm in a jam lol. I have literally NO ONE to help me out :-( so looks like i gotta bite the bullet and get some vaseline for my butt. I'm at least happy that friends from work are giving me a lift i feel like such a moocher.

It's funny how it fired up fine, i let the front pump up, then i shut it to restart so the back pumped up, at that point it didn't crank and i had NO electric. I checked the fuses nothing is burnt out.

Thanks again for everyones help.
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start with this... run like hell from that guy. then grab a test light and start checking for a open wire.my guess is the positive wire at the battery is corroded.check to see if there is power about 2 inches back from the terminals.or have some one start wiggling the battery wires while you try to crank it.it sounds like the same problem i had in my 93.wires all looked good till i cut back the insulation and found the problem,on the outside all looked good. but had no power to the car,didnt do it all the time..hmmm just when the wife drove the car.. corrosion ate the copper.
 
blue_t said:
start with this... run like hell from that guy. then grab a test light and start checking for a open wire.my guess is the positive wire at the battery is corroded.check to see if there is power about 2 inches back from the terminals.or have some one start wiggling the battery wires while you try to crank it.it sounds like the same problem i had in my 93.wires all looked good till i cut back the insulation and found the problem,on the outside all looked good. but had no power to the car,didnt do it all the time..hmmm just when the wife drove the car.. corrosion ate the copper.
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similiar thing happened to me too, corrosion ate the terminal at the end of the wire, it crumbled into peices when i took it off, replaced it with a new one and everything was a-okay :D
 
I feel like a jackass now lol. I did take a look at the cables they looked ok but showed very little white oxidation, i never took it apart and tried to splice new wire to in sheesh.

The things we overlook, i'm gonna try tomorrow, i hope they're open (holiday).

PS HAPPY JULY 4TH EVERYONE!!!!
 
I agree with blue_t. I think you have a battery terminal issue, if you have NO electrical power after 1 click of the starter. I have seen the terminal arch and put a tiny bit of carbon on the terminal, and its lights out until you fiddle with the terminal a little bit.

And not to sound like a dick, but if you are stuck with this guy fixing it, even if he is wrong, why are you asking for help if you can't do anything with the advise we are going to give you anyway?
 
Well originally i wanted to know what you guys thought the issue was and if that sounded right what the mechanic said. Trust me i seriously thanks ALL of you for your input and i will try the terminal tomorrow if they're open, if they aint open i'm gonna call em as soon as they open and tell them hold on before they go ahead and do anything.

If it is the terminal Blue-T just saved me some serious $$$ and i appreciate it.

Thanks again guys.
 
BLUE T YOU THE MAN IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!:D:cool::cool::cool:

So i had a co worker drive me to the mechanics shop and my car was in the lot, they didnt fix it obviously it didn't start etc. I disconnected the terminals and the positive cable connection i took off the wire, the wire basically crumbled and was like copper dust lol. I stripped the wire about 2 inches down and connected it all back together and she fired right up!!!!!!!! I got it washed and now shes riding good again.

I left a note saying i fixed it and i will call them ASAP so they don't think someone stole it lol. This guy better not say some BS like he ordered the part etc its no return etc or that he worked on it i'll freakin flip he already tried to rape me. I'll pay him if there is a lift fee like 20-30$ but thats it.
 
guinnessman said:
BLUE T YOU THE MAN IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!:D:cool::cool::cool:

So i had a co worker drive me to the mechanics shop and my car was in the lot, they didnt fix it obviously it didn't start etc. I disconnected the terminals and the positive cable connection i took off the wire, the wire basically crumbled and was like copper dust lol. I stripped the wire about 2 inches down and connected it all back together and she fired right up!!!!!!!! I got it washed and now shes riding good again.

I left a note saying i fixed it and i will call them ASAP so they don't think someone stole it lol. This guy better not say some BS like he ordered the part etc its no return etc or that he worked on it i'll freakin flip he already tried to rape me. I'll pay him if there is a lift fee like 20-30$ but thats it.
Click to expand...

Very cool....ill send you my bill..5 minutes to think about it,30 minutes to type it,15 more minutes for the follow up..hmm..well send me 400 and we will call it even:)
 
markviii's are all about electrical connections, so glad that got it going again-
I don't drive my 96 as a daily driver, so I periodically charge (2 amp rate) the battery, clean connections, and am very nice to it when I start it up-no AC, no 'auto lights' until the air ride compressor has done it's thing.Oh, and I do have spare computers (three, all different catch codes) and three spare VCRM's 'cause they are hard to come by on a 96-they are unique to that year and will not work on another year, nor will another year work on a 96 so if you ever need one, snap it up off ebay or the local pick apart should you be lucky enough to find a 96.
 
So get this, i just called the mechanic on his cell he's off today, and he said that he already changed the part?? I told him when i got there the car was dead and wouldnt even start with a charger, and that when i reconnected the positive cable to terminal due to corrosion it started right away without a battery pack charger. He said it just needed to be charged (Bullsh*t).

I seriously think this dude is trying to screw me. I told him i'll be there tomorrow to see what exactly he did, and i want the old part to compare them to show me proof he actually changed something. He was mad that i took the car, this in unbelievable. I wish i asked you guys before i brought it there.

BTW what does a computer module look like anyway? He said he wired everything up etc. What BS i tell ya.
 
Looks like this and it's under the drivers side dash to the left of the brake pedal. it's up in there but you can see it. It has a 10mm bolt on the bottom that has to be loosened and then it will unplug and come out. Nothing to the swap but should be done with battery disconnected. On a part like that where someone says they are changing it, put some ID on it before you leave it. A scratch mark that only you will know about, ect...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
guinnessman said:
So get this, i just called the mechanic on his cell he's off today, and he said that he already changed the part?? I told him when i got there the car was dead and wouldnt even start with a charger, and that when i reconnected the positive cable to terminal due to corrosion it started right away without a battery pack charger. He said it just needed to be charged (Bullsh*t).

I seriously think this dude is trying to screw me. I told him i'll be there tomorrow to see what exactly he did, and i want the old part to compare them to show me proof he actually changed something. He was mad that i took the car, this in unbelievable. I wish i asked you guys before i brought it there.

BTW what does a computer module look like anyway? He said he wired everything up etc. What BS i tell ya.
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holy crap! dont even go back tomorrow. he is LYING TO YOU!!
he didnt even properly diagnose your car before telling you it would cost $400+

stay away from him, i fear you will go there tomorrow and be convinced to pay him something, HE TRIED TO STEAL FROM YOU! you dont owe him crap, and you should report him to the BBB.
 
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