LaserSVT 98 White Pearlescent Progress Thread

bro take the car off craigslist in texas......seriously its braking my heart bro i admire that car but seriously y
 
Timing seems to be every thing..... a couple dys ago my subwoofer cracked its cone. I guess from the sub zero temps and then me cranking it, it was non too happy. :(

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A new cone can be had for $60-$70 so I figured I needed to find some side jobs cause mang did it sound like chit!

One of my customers calls me today and says he broke the belt on his Explorer and asked me to check it out. I did and it was because his water pump was frozen solid, all he has is water in the system. I defrost the pump and spin it to see the pump is all messed up now too. He only had $100 and thats just enough for parts but needed the car cause he just had a kid last week. I tell him I will do the work and he can just pay me when he gets paid again. So I drive him to get the part and he notices my stero sounds like crap and I tell him about the dammaged sub. He tells me he has one he dont use now since he needs the cargo room, maybe I wanna trade?
We get back to his house and he pulls the sub out and OMGWTFBBQ!! its a Boston SPG555 thats about 2 years old. Box is a little scuffed but otherwise the sub sounds SPECTACULAR!

I have to move the amp tomorrow so I can slide the box under the rear shelf all the way. Box is huge so cant mount it the way I had the old one but this sub dont seem to care, it still plays deep and clean and man is it freakin loud! :eek:

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Sounds like someone may be smiling on you for once:D
 
Hells yeah! I was just gonna charge him $80 for the pump and belt change. Thats a freakin $830 sub box! He said he dont care and if I wanted it then it was mine for the work! Couldnt pass that up.
 
Thanks.

Got her mounted in place and tuned. Thing sounds killer! Gonna make a baffle board at some point to class it up some but for now I am very happy with it.

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Read the response I gave you in the What did you do to your ride today thread. Does that thing rattle your trunk and glass? I see no reason to have something that does that. Must sound nice though.
 
Maybe next time you and Sapper are shooting in your yard you will strike oil like Jed Clampett:D
 
No oil here. I am on the very edge of a gas pocket though. So...... big bada boom.
 
No.. not really... Pure gas doesn't burn. It needs oxygen to mix with. ;)

As far as your speaker thinghy... Just like an engine, you should "warm" electronic components up before you turn them all the way up. You ever put the rated power to a cold MOSFET transistor? While being rated for xyz power, it's rated for that power at operating temperature, not when it's cold. Same goes for most other electronic components.

I bet the same thing happened to your subwoofer. You got it, cranked up the tunes off the bat, and the cone split because it wasn't "warm".
 
Negative. Got in the car and drove for about 20 minutes with the raido on in the background. A song I liked came on and I turned it up and could hear the bass was hollow. Checked the sub and saw the crack.

Also when my car is on the amp is always on even when the stereo is off. Because of the blue tooth and the NAV system the deck keeps the amp on all the time since when navigating you cant always wait 6 seconds for the amp to finnish its startup procedure.

As for the temp thing, I didnt know. I was always under the assumption electronics work better when cold. Cryo systems for desktop processors, large cooling towers for main frames and I have even seen water cooling systems for car amps. Thought a FET switched better when cold since its opperation creates so much heat from the rapid turning on and off.

I did keep the magic smoke in them though so they still work fine. :D
 
 
LaserSVT said:
As for the temp thing, I didnt know. I was always under the assumption electronics work better when cold. Cryo systems for desktop processors, large cooling towers for main frames and I have even seen water cooling systems for car amps. Thought a FET switched better when cold since its opperation creates so much heat from the rapid turning on and off.
Click to expand...

Of course, electronics run better when cold. But remember, there is a difference between heat and temperature.

You could apply 1000 degrees of heat to a 1" thick piece of metal for 1 second then remove the heat source and the metal will not be 1000 degrees in temperature because it dissipated some of the heat applied applied to it resulting in a lower temperature than the heat source. Now, if you keep that

Better example, think of the temperature the ignition stroke creates inside of a cylinder. On gasoline engines you're running about 1500F. Now, aluminum melts at about 1350 degrees. How is it possible the pistons don't melt then? Again, temperature and the metal's ability to dissipate that heat by spreading the temperature across the whole piston. Of course, the unburnt gasoline has a lot to do with helping the piston dissipate the temperature, as some of the heat transfers to the cold(er) gasoline when it comes in contact with the piston.

With cryogenic electronics, they don't have a chance to warm up because the cooling systems take that heat away as soon as it's produced, therefore the component(s) temperature doesn't change instantly. It always remains constant. But with uncooled components, you start stressing them when you go from relatively 0 temperature to high temperature by applying heat (in our case amperage) to them.
 
sbcaprice305 said:
Who the hell would spend 900 bucks on that? Am i missing something?Nice setup but not 900 nice. You scored reguardless..I'm not tryin to hate but thats alot of money for that.
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You have to pay to play with the best. I did car stereos for years at a Boston/JL/Rockford/Alpine/Kenwood/Pioneer/Soundstream/Nakamichi/MBQuart/Focal/Rainbow/ARC/Zapco dealer.
I was a JL W6 fan for years and loved the output of the W7. Then Rockford introduced their new T series (2005ish) and gave the W7 a good run for its money. Then the SPG came out and killed the subs. It was cleaner and more accurate then the W6 and had more output then the W7. These are no ordinary sub.
They are rebuildable in minutes for competition use. Youcan swap a voice coil in under 2 minutes and dont even need to pull the sub out of the box.

I never could justify $800+ as well but for a water pump?..... HELLS YEAH!


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Frogman said:
As far as your speaker thinghy... Just like an engine, you should "warm" electronic components up before you turn them all the way up. You ever put the rated power to a cold MOSFET transistor? While being rated for xyz power, it's rated for that power at operating temperature, not when it's cold. Same goes for most other electronic components.

I bet the same thing happened to your subwoofer. You got it, cranked up the tunes off the bat, and the cone split because it wasn't "warm".
Click to expand...
+1


I used to work for a production company that did live concerts and the such. If the temp was below a certain temp we had to slowly warm the speakers up or else they would do just that. Yes we carried a spare driver or two, not a hard fix on the ground but at 40ft in the air and in the middle of a line array, not an easy or cheap fix.

I always let things warm up before cranking the volume, its like your car you don't just jump in it when its 20 outside start it up and then floor it, you warm it up then go.
 
good luck with the sale..... damn i wish ud sell the saleens? io want them o well
 
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