Got rear ended, then blew my motor. Kill me.

I listened to it on my iPhone...

Couple things to consider...
1) the crank gear is a TWO piece which has been known to break the crank key. Ford updated this later on to a SINGLE piece to help distribute the load.
2) the secondary chain system on a mark viii IS NOT keyed, as in it relies on the pressure of the cam bolt to hold the sprokets in place.
3) you can get at least the timing cover off. Just undo the valve cover bolts, then the timing cover bolts, and the power steering pump, and don't forget the 4 oil pan to timing cover bolts. Then carefully remove the timing cover, TAKE YOUR TIME. Be sure not to pull the valve cover gaskets out with it, just tuck them back up into the valve covers.


This info at least can get you started. You can check the primary tensioners and the crank key before signing off on the engine.

I really need to make an video showing common failure points on theses cars and what to do to remedy these problems.
 
you'll have to remove the ac compressor and the water pump too or you aint getting the timing cover off.
 
It's already "broke" ...

tear it apart and find out why. It will build character. ;)
 
DieselDan said:
Don't call jamie, call ripped camel :D

Dude... i would consider myself lucky if it were a valve train issue...

its NOT that hard, just time consuming.

And the car will run just fine without the secondary tensioner pumped up, but it can cause your valve timing to be off...
Click to expand...

$50 for the hammer if you want it :D I added a ten dollar premium to it's original cost because it now has novelty value ;)
 
The pump can stay on...... Only need to pull the pulley off. As far as you guys tilting the engine, I have no idea why you NEED to go thy far. Seperate the master from the booster, and there is plenty of room.
 
sorry, old cell pic i found........water pump stays on, a/c comp you just need to get the bolts a little loose, p/s pump; remove bolts and let it hang there........

you can remove the timing cover without taking the valve covers off, but putting it back on with covers on is not fun, so just take them out and put new gaskets on them............

l_e06ed3f4949a4514ac6814dc0dc90c99.jpg
 
Meh, I just loosened the cam cover bolts and used a pry bar to slide it out.

When I put it back in I ran a bead of black silicone in the four corners and slid it back in. No oil leaks after 3 weeks of dd duty.
 
Hey guys, thanks for all the encouragement and help! You all really rock and come to help in time of need. I am impressed! I have decided to tear her down on Sunday with Sapperfires help. I will keep the covers on and leave the water pump on. Ill drop the power steering pump and AC comp and also remove the radiator which has to come out anyway cause my impact gun is too big.

I found all the tensioner and guides at Rock auto for well under $200 to do both sides. I am hopeful this is the problem. I will also order a new timing cover gasket set and VC set.

Thanks again everyone!!!
 
There were alot of words and terms I am not familar with used in this thread.... Fahk I need to learn more about cars :(

Laser - best of luck to you man - your car made me fall in love with the Mark all over again - i'd only seen them stock on those ugly ass rims and it always kept me away, but on the Saleens.. well... *drool*

You rock man! Good luck!!
 
Bill has a supercharger on his car so there is a lot of terminology that none of us have on our cars at all!
 
OK, my Droid takes much better video and audio so here is where you can clearly hear where its coming from. I am feeling really confidant that the guide is worn and I will have to just get new guides and tensioners. I will do both sides. Seen some tricks and watched Jamie do some stuff. I will zip-tie the chain against itself to not skip any teeth then swap out the parts. I have to find that one writeup that shows how to use a pin to retain the tensioner for the install. If anyone knows of any tricks then please dont hole em in. :)

YouTube- Droid cam chain tensioner rattle
 
Dude! The pin in the tentioner...comes with a new chain tentioner..it's like a Grenade..pull pin...bang...once pin is pulled, there's no loading it again...so when you get it in the mail, don't fukk with it..I'll do the chain, I've done timing chains before..not a big deal

just remind me to bring my paint pen
 
Not a rod knock that's for sure.

100% better video.
No doubt you will get it fixed.
 
Damn, that does suck man. everything happens for a reason...Forged Internals coming sooner than later. that (I almost "Ripped Cameled" the car.) comment was hilarious though. His luck sucks too.
Good luck man
 
So Sapperfire came over last night so we could get an early start on the car today. He had actually started on it before I wouke up and when I went outside he had a lot torn down already.
IMGP1573.jpg


So I hopped to it and started to help with the rest.

IMGP1575.jpg



Decided since it will be a week or so till the car gets put back together that I better mark all the bolts to be safe:
IMGP1576.jpg



Then it was time to get her in the air to pull the PS pump and take out some oil pan bolts:

IMGP1577.jpg



So we loosened the VC's and I pulled the timing cover. At this point I was very sad. :( The tensioners and guides look perfect and show no wear. At that point I was certain the rods or main bearings were shot. We started to make plans as to how to do the motor swap and set this one to the side for a rebuild. So Jeremy starts to make some calls and I fiddle with the tensioners and get the drivers side guide to squeeze out about 1/8-1/4" and start to think maybe it is worn and dont pump up enough and maybe its worth trying to swap them to see what happens.

IMGP1584.jpg

IMGP1582.jpg



At this point Jeremy is back over the car and says "You're gear is cracked!" and I look at the reluctor gear or crank angle gear and see at its TDC spot it is cracked half way through! :eek: He touches it and it goes "clink clink" on the crank. He just grabes it and it slides off the crank with no effort at all. I take a look and man o man was he right! I had never been so happy to see a broken part! :lol:

IMGP1586.jpg

IMGP1591.jpg




Jeremy, thanks a ton mang! I was ready to get a new motor and he swoops in and finds this small part thats pretty easy to swap is broken.

So since we are in there I am gonna replace the tensioners anyway and order a new gear and gasket set.
 
That's awesome that you found the problem. Which was probably not that easy to spot. Atleast you don't have to go replacing the motor now. Good luck and hope everything works out the best for you.
 
Did you check the secondary chain tensioners? The ones between the 2 cams? I would be suprised if that cracked wheel is the cause of all that noise. Not ruling it out though, just figure that since the cover is out, now is the time to check those tensioners too...
 
Yup Dan, the tensioners look just as good or better then the primaries. The noise was this thing seperating as its spinning and then contacting the sensor a little. Also on the keyway you can see where its been moving around PLUS when Jeremy grabbed it and wiggled it was the same sound just not muffled any more.

I am not saying FOR SURE its the problem but it seems more then likely.
 
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