Future forged build. Which would you guys do?

LaserSVT

LaserSVT

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First let me say this project could be anywhere between 5 months to a year from now. I will first be paying back the people that helped me before another dime goes into the damn car. I decided to look at my recent luck as positive now that I know I have a very solid base for my build. At 103K miles the inside of my motor still looks new. Even the bearings.

So heres the decision for the rebuild. It will be set up to handle 400 rwhp and 13 psi. I may push boost to 18psi if I can make the meth kit work well.

Cobra crank, Probe pistons and forged H-rods. About $1900 with bearings but still needs balancing.

Cobra crank with Manley pistons and H-rods. $2200 and will need to be balanced.

DSS 5.0 stroker kit running about 8.63 CR. Fully balanced and ready to slap in. $2800

ModMax 5.0 Stroker kit running 8.63CR. Balanced and ready to go $2600


All come with rings and bearings. I need the block machined anyway but it will be a little more for the .020 overbore for the stroker kits.


So what do y'all think?
 
I was going to suggest (in your pissed off thread) taking what Jamie has sent you and when the job kicks back in, forge the bottom end and build it like you want it. In the mean time, take it easy on the one you have. The 2010 luck for you and me both has sucked, along with a few others on here but we bounce back.
 
he is running b-heads which are not readily inter cooled
 
I would go with one of the 5.0 stroker kits. It is going to allow you to reach your HP goals without as much boost and the cost of the other kits after balancing would be close. It is also going to give you more room to grow when that 400 rwhp starts to feel old.
 
BAD97LSC said:
knowing bill that 400 hp will get old the first day lol!!!
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:lol: Prolly. :p

I thought I could get all the 4.6 forged stuff for under $1200..... boy was I wrong! People all want over $500 fpr their used Cobra cranks. And you are right, the balencing of the 4.6 stuff will bring it within $200 of the 5.0 stuff.

If I could get a good deal on a Cobra crank and Cobra rods then that would be a large enough price difference to stay 4.6 but if its only a couple hundred..... may as well get stroked. :D
 
bill let me ask my buddy if he has any cobra cranks this dude is HUGE into cobra's he builds motors left and right, he usually buys all my blocks, he wanted the motor i sent you, i could have got more for the block from him than i did selling it to you. but he didnt need help, you did!
 
Go big or go home at this point!! A couple of hundred extra bucks at this point of your build is well worth the :q:q:q:q eating grin stuck to your face with your foot against the floor!!! 5.0 stroked all the way!!!
 
i bought a used cobra crank for 300 it didn't even need turned. Just be paitent and scour svtp and such.
 
i would go with the stroker kit just so i could slap some new 5.0 badges on my mark :D
 
Really it depends on what you want in the end. If it is only going to be mild boost, I wouldn't even go with a forged crank. Good pistons and rods are all you need.

As far as the stroker kit, it's a double edged sword. You already are a step up in torque with a positive displacement blower. Combining the two, I would definitely go with a forged crank.

Are you sure you need to bore the block? I've seen many with 100K miles that really didn't need it. A good set of file fit rings in the hands of a skilled builder will likely save a few hundred bucks.

I think you're at the crossroads. You could build a nice mildly boosted setup with the stock crank and stock bore. Or you could go all out and get the forged crank, stroker kit, higher quality pistons, rods and rings and go crazy. But the latter is going to require a lot more than rotating parts and some real cash and NO shortcuts. That includes assembly. If you're going all out, have a quality speed shop build the shortblock for you.
 
You will not be happy dropping that CR so low. I am at 10.2. A set of Marauder or Mach1 heads on top of the new 5.0L bored and stroked (5.4L) would be the absolutely wicked. Check around and see if you can't find some of these heads, even if you have to freshen them up, they work well with stock cams ($1500 complete) and your KB unit and they can accommodate the IC, even if you don't go all out for another block at this time you will have pieces you can use for the next jump in performance.
 
All out for another block? The Teksid is as good as it gets. Even in the aftermarket the Teksid is still the better block.


And the ENTIRE bottom end is gonna be forged.
 
i would advise you to take a step back and listen to driller for a min and do some research. Many modular engine builders will tell you that the stock crank is good for around 600 hp. It is also lighter so the engine rev's faster. You also have to remember the forged crank is 8 bolt, so you will need a new flex plate as well. That being said i know that your gonna get a forged crank anyway. Just making you think a little!
 
Roadboss said:
You will not be happy dropping that CR so low. I am at 10.2. A set of Marauder or Mach1 heads on top of the new 5.0L bored and stroked (5.4L) would be the absolutely wicked. Check around and see if you can't find some of these heads, even if you have to freshen them up, they work well with stock cams ($1500 complete) and your KB unit and they can accommodate the IC, even if you don't go all out for another block at this time you will have pieces you can use for the next jump in performance.
Click to expand...

the b-head kb wont work with the c-heads though will it?
 
lsc8 said:
i would advise you to take a step back and listen to driller for a min and do some research. Many modular engine builders will tell you that the stock crank is good for around 600 hp. It is also lighter so the engine rev's faster. You also have to remember the forged crank is 8 bolt, so you will need a new flex plate as well. That being said i know that your gonna get a forged crank anyway. Just making you think a little!
Click to expand...
Heres the thing with me. If I am gonna do it then I may as well do it, ya know? :lol:
If I am gonna go through the expense of doing this then I may as well go the extra tiny bit and make it how I want it. If I only run 400 rwhp ever then I know I have a super stout base that I will never kill.
THEN down the road should I decide to go big all I have to do is sell my blower, buy some C heads and an 03/04 blower setup and a Whipple 3.4 then run 24lbs of boost and push 700 at the wheels and still know my motor could handle another 500 with no problem. :)

If I am gonna do it then I am gonna do it once.
 
lsc8 said:
the b-head kb wont work with the c-heads though will it?
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I think if its unbolted from the B head plenum then you can just mate it to a C head plenum........ hmmmm, that would save some cash cause I wouldnt have to buy an Eaton and it would be way more efficient....... hmmmmm
 
LaserSVT said:
If I am gonna go through the expense of doing this then I may as well go the extra tiny bit and make it how I want it.
Click to expand...

It's not a tiny bit. The forged crank(which is entirely unnecessary for anything under 450-500 HP), rods and pistons is only one level. To get to the next level requires a whole 'nother step up, including balancing, even better rods, pistons and fasteners. Probably almost 4 grand in the rotating assembly alone without labor, easily double what you could go do yourself.
 
All I am goons point out is....

Jeremi ran a WAP block, stock iron crank, forged rods and pistons, 10.5:1 compression and 14 lbs of Intercooled/c-head boost on this tan 97 and a very similar setup on his cordovan 98.

You are retarded if you plan on running 450+hp on a daily driver VIII. You will pull the damned car in half if you run tires that stick. And if you don't your just gonna spin anyway.


I suppose what you should take from this is.


The stock crank is lighter, cheaper, and more than adequate for anything a B-headed kenne-bell is gonna throw at it.
 
LaserSVT said:
I think if its unbolted from the B head plenum then you can just mate it to a C head plenum........ hmmmm, that would save some cash cause I wouldnt have to buy an Eaton and it would be way more efficient....... hmmmmm
Click to expand...

You would need an adapter plate to mate it to the cobra lower manifold, which I highly doubt anyone (including KB) makes. This would replace the adapter that is attached to the blower now.

Mike
 
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