Future forged build. Which would you guys do?

[LaserSVT]

It's not a tiny bit. The forged crank(which is entirely unnecessary for anything under 450-500 HP), rods and pistons is only one level. To get to the next level requires a whole 'nother step up, including balancing, even better rods, pistons and fasteners. Probably almost 4 grand in the rotating assembly alone without labor, easily double what you could go do yourself.

The plan was to spend close to $3000 for a forged rotating assembly. The rods will be balanced as well as the crank. I will prolly go with the DSS or Mod Max kits.
If I am throwing forged pistons and rods in the motor then it seems half assed to me to reuse the cast crank.
Now for you to really freak out....... I wanna put it together myself! I have watched 100's of engines being put together and 8 or 9 4V mod motors and I just wanna do it.
I have built several rotarys but those engines are childs play by comparison. I will take the block and heads down to check mating surfaces and if any honing is needed of the main. I will get the tool (cause I like tools) to change out the lash adjusters and replace the springs with Comp springs. I will file fit the rings and line them up per performance recommendations, use new ARP bolts/stud EVERYWHERE, slap the heads on then drop the motor off at Gear heads Performance to have them work their cam timing magic on it then drop it back in the car.

I also (per peoples input on here) step up the CR to 9.8-10.2:1



Mike, when the car has that motor in it I will long have had a different DD. The car will be retired to "Toy" status when that motor is done. At that point I will run 400-420 rwhp until I get bored with it or blow the trans. After then I may sell the blower and do a C head swap and add a manual........ not sure what, gotta see what fits best as I want it to look stock.

As for the blower, I may be wrong but I think the KB case has the same bolt pattern to bolt to the top plate as all the others.......... BUT, it prolly still wont work cause I believe the 2.2L "C" head kits snout is much shorter.
Don't matter. To finance the C swap the KB would have to be sold anyway.

 

[Chris_Murder]

You would need an adapter plate to mate it to the cobra lower manifold, which I highly doubt anyone (including KB) makes. This would replace the adapter that is attached to the blower now.

Mike

What about conti adapters? I always heard that b intakes manifolds can be mounted with them to c heads but that there is no c to b head adapters

 

[94m5]

It would be pointless to do that. The c heads would give no benefit over b heads without intercooling.

 

[danny_holtermann]

i am a huge fan of manley products, check them out once, i have a few friends that have their pistons in and they have never had a problem

 

[Tiltedhalo]

Driller is on the money with the crank I have seen some major numbers put down with stock nodular cranks, they tend to be more forgiving at there limits.
When you push a forged crank to its edge they are more liable to sheer then nodular, they will handle more within there limits though.
Pistons and rods are the weakest links. And any set up should be balanced. If you are looking for forged slugs you will have to deal with fit, KB, probe ect... make some good lite expansion pistons that will help with cold starts.
My set up has a forged crank, Manley H beam rods with ARP bolts, KB pistons Total seal rings, and full lower and upper stud kits. Cost under 2K for the hole lot you just have to shop around.

 

[fossten]

Trying to follow this conversation is like reading Greek.

flex plate
nodular
slugs
bored and stroked
plenum
stroker kit

Sigh. I need to find a dictionary.

 

[lsc8]

I understand the forged crank, because it was the same reasoning that i used. I wanted to only build the block once. If i can't get this b head set-up to the power level that i want, then i'm going to make the switch to c heads.