BBK Mustang long tubes install Bets?

[GMAN]

Very nice work. Is it even worth it to rebuild UCA's

 

[Right on the Mark]

Very nice work. Is it even worth it to rebuild UCA's

Is it worth 100 dollars? To me it is, thats how much a new Moog arm goes for. Took me 2 hours so I figure I made 50 an hour. The rest of the arm was good. Now back to my #1 rule on this car "I'M CHEAP"! No really I'M CHEAP! I say frugal. LOL

 

[Right on the Mark]

Just fired her up with open headers. She started and idled right out. No oil,coolant, trans or PS fluid leaks. Mint. While I was there I thru in these nice clean used struts and air bags.

Here you can see how the headers really hug the floor pretty good.

The Mandrel exhaust should be here Thursday. So I will be on that next. Maybe get an alinment tommorrow too. Think cops will bust me for driving to dealer with open headers?

 

[87TTOPGT420]

Nice job on install

 

[lsc8]

what are you using for mandrel exhaust?

 

[Right on the Mark]

what are you using for mandrel exhaust?

This just came in today.

http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/servlet/the-117/93-dsh-98-MARK-VIII-EXHAUST/Detail

 

[Right on the Mark]

This is what UPS man dropped off today. Just all the pipes no muffs. The Mark8 pipe kit in aluminized steel is $150. I also got there 2.5 inch multi pack for $52. I also got 2 ball and sockets assemblies for 10 dollars!

Here are the extras they throw in. Clamps and hangers. The muff is a Magnaflow S.S. 2 in 2 out with internal X. I bought the car on 4/14/06. I bought this muff used off Ebay for $60 on 6/10/06. I had it in my parts plie that long waiting!!

Here are the rear muffs, Dynomax Part #17230 got this one on 10/20/06 for $50 off Ebay new. Still looking for the matching muff to this one.

I have not found tips yet but think I see some on a muff I cut off a car in scrap pile. I will most likely have to mod all these pipes like the one guy on here did. He did a super nice clean job in all S.S. I should have this done this weekend.

 

[lsc8]

I'm looking at ordering the same, in ss. I'll wait a while longer and watch you tackle it! Where are the extra ball flanges going?

 

[Markviiiedrea]

This is what UPS man dropped off today. Just all the pipes no muffs. The Mark8 pipe kit in aluminized steel is $150. I also got there 2.5 inch multi pack for $52. I also got 2 ball and sockets assemblies for 10 dollars!


Here are the extras they throw in. Clamps and hangers. The muff is a Magnaflow S.S. 2 in 2 out with internal X. I bought the car on 4/14/06. I bought this muff used off Ebay for $60 on 6/10/06. I had it in my parts plie that long waiting!!


Here are the rear muffs, Dynomax Part #17230 got this one on 10/20/06 for $50 off Ebay new. Still looking for the matching muff to this one.


I have not found tips yet but think I see some on a muff I cut off a car in scrap pile. I will most likely have to mod all these pipes like the one guy on here did. He did a super nice clean job in all S.S. I should have this done this weekend.

Love the work man, hell you could just post pictures of your cat and I still will be subscribing to it,

I know how it feels to be sitting on allot of parts and can’t do anything with them for long periods of time. For the last 3 years I have slowly been collecting components and hopefully all will be going in the car here in the next few weeks....as long as the snow holds out....grumble grumble.

 

[Right on the Mark]

I'm looking at ordering the same, in ss. I'll wait a while longer and watch you tackle it! Where are the extra ball flanges going?

In this pic, the ball and sockets are layed out right where they are going. The muff is going right inbetween them with added tubes to get to muff of course

 

[Right on the Mark]

On to making all the pipes fit now. The first thing I did was weld 4 holder straps to the long S pipes to make them one. This is so easier to handle and line up. I layed them out on 3/8 thick bars to keep them level and off the front socket flange. I set the two S pipes closest up front because thats where its the tighest fit in car. Also I want the front of the two S tubes to be as close to each other as possible CL to CL. This is to line up with the muff. The muff CL to CL is 4 inches and when two S pipes are pushed together there CL to CL is 4.400. So only .400 difference to split later.

Next I needed to get mid muff up there to see what lengths I'm looking at fore and aft.

Next hang up the S pipes in car to check to see how far back muff has to be to make the front pipes clear the trans crossmember.

Here you can see where I will be cutting off there stock socket joint and moving them back like 3 or 4 inches to clear both ball and socket and move muff back as far as possible.

Here is rought tail pipe fitment. Everything fit pretty good!!

Next up is making the header to muff pipes. I know the 2 pipes going into muff need a 1.5 spacer block inbetween them to make them same spacing as muff. Then I know header socket stubs are 19 3/4 wide. I know the end of header stubs to muff is 17.5 inches. So I made this jig on floor to make all pipes. Here is jig layed out.

Here are the pipes cut and fit in. I just have to cut off extra lenght where black lines are.

Here are all the pipes tack welded.

I still need one muff for rear. I will finish up all the rest of the pipes tomorrow. Shoot its 3:30 AM right now.

 

[slowmkviii]

I am jealous
keep up the great posts

 

[kustomizingkid]

Looking good... always looking good.

 

[LaserSVT]

Excellent.

 

[ford nut]

Very nice. Awesome thread.

 

[Raped Ape]

Looks nice so far, a couple ?'s for u. First, will you have any issues with having to lower the tranny out if needed in the future with how close the one header and flange is, it looks to be tucked just under the tranny a bit? And second, is that the pipe kit off of E-Bay that I see all the time for $120.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330325270903&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT?

 

[driller]

I'm really curious why the mandrel bent pipes with all the weld joints and hammered up patchwork headers.

Don't take it wrong, I think it's an admirable project but the juxtaposition of opposing goals makes me wonder why.

 

[kaha]

Great thread! What makes it is not just the info, but your excellent documentation of the project. The photos and step by step explanation is better than that in any Fix Your Mark book that I could buy.
In fact, writing such a book and then publishing it might make you some extra money, you certainly have that rare skill of being able to explain things clearly.
Hell I'd buy it.

 

[Raped Ape]

Yeah, I like the fact of the pic whoring, to give us insight to what he is writing and doing. Great job!!!!

 

[Right on the Mark]

I'm really curious why the mandrel bent pipes with all the weld joints and hammered up patchwork headers.

Don't take it wrong, I think it's an admirable project but the juxtaposition of opposing goals makes me wonder why.

Your first ?. Are you talking just about the headers or the pipes from headers to muff?

Second statement of yours. What are my opposing goals?

 

[Right on the Mark]

Yeah, I like the fact of the pic whoring, to give us insight to what he is writing and doing. Great job!!!!

Glad you like it. BILL

 

[driller]

Your first ?. Are you talking just about the headers or the pipes from headers to muff?

Second statement of yours. What are my opposing goals?

I'm talking about both the headers and exhaust.

The headers seemed to start out like a project about "I'm using these headers - whatever it takes". Even so far as to use the stock steering joint. And even the hammered up passenger side was used as is?

OK, I'm good with that but then you pull out mandrel bent tubing. Then hack (for lack of a better term) the pieces and weld them together. Seems to me to defeat the purpose of the mandrel bends. But if we're simply using what we got, I understand.

I guess I got caught off base with the whole mandrel bent tubing thing.

 

[Right on the Mark]

I'm talking about both the headers and exhaust.

The headers seemed to start out like a project about "I'm using these headers - whatever it takes". Even so far as to use the stock steering joint. And even the hammered up passenger side was used as is?

OK, I'm good with that but then you pull out mandrel bent tubing. Then hack (for lack of a better term) the pieces and weld them together. Seems to me to defeat the purpose of the mandrel bends. But if we're simply using what we got, I understand.

I guess I got caught off base with the whole mandrel bent tubing thing.

Was I suppose to pull out all dents in the used headers? Only way to do that is pull a ball bearing little smaller then ID thru tube. I sure as heck was not doing that! Me being a begger can't be choosy. LOL BTW BBK primary tube wall thickness is .085 which is pretty beefy. Also your usage of the term "hack" I call cutting. How else was I suppose to make the header to muff pipes without spending the money to have company mandrel bend them and charge me? All the mandrel bends are still intact there is no crimping of tubes. As you can see in this post DLF did it the same way. I have also done this same way in my street stang. You are correct I use what I have and never farm out work. Also wondering if you read my "being cheap on THIS car"?

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=57278&highlight=exhaust

 

[Right on the Mark]

Here is some more "Hack" work done on no other then one of the nicest car on here. Mlschultz supercharger car. As you can see his tail pipes are hacked up mandrel bends too.(post 16) http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=61999

PS don't look at all his nice intercooling tubing cuz thats hacked mandrel bends too. LOL http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=33276

 

[driller]

I see I struck a soft spot with my poor choice of words.

I meant no disrespect, only to mention the use of mandrel bent tubing seemed to be in contrast to the rest of the project (including being "cheap"), that's all.