BBK Mustang long tubes install Bets?

[Right on the Mark]

OK one of the young punks(really a good kid me just being grumpy old man) across the street just got a 2005 GTO 5.7L. He went to track first time and ran a 14.2 so I still had him beat with the slowest car in fleet the MK8.Tonight he runs a 13.8. Time to step up some for the old girl. I bough these awhile back to do some tube tweaking on drivers side. Almost all mustang headers fit on pass side so I'm crossing fingers there. These are little ugly before sandblasting so forgive the PRE look. Think I will have them on this week??
Here is the pass side that i hope drops in for 50% less work

Here is drivers side This one will need some tube relocation work

This is stage 1 of "operation snap necks"

 

[Trippen Out]

so what is it that you are planning on doing to make it fit? I just don't seem to understand here. Are you planning on cutting out a section and bending a new part and welding it back into place? Pretty much, that is the only way I can think of that wouldn't defeat the purpose of actually have the headers. I herd there is some sort of steering knuckle gimmick you can get. Is that what your planning on doing?

 

[Right on the Mark]

Some people have used MAC headers to do this. I didn't want to use MACs because they don't have a 1 piece header flange. And i'm done with crappy 4 piece flanges. Yes I will most like have to cut out and add in some different routed primaries to clear the steering shaft. I am not going to waste any money on a "Sweet" (thats company name) steering joint so I will build around the stock rag joint(steering shaft). I bought a set of donor headers for 25 where the dude lost one primary slip tube from the set so there not useable. I bought these to scavange different bends and pieces to use on the BBK ones.

 

[Chris_Murder]

The rear two, maybe even rear three tubes on the drivers side will have to be altered. I hope the passenger side doesn't rub against the floor or starter. Good luck. What's the plan? Remove the entire subframe? Put the body on maxed out high capacity jack stands for room to work? Suspend the engine with a top mount engine support system? That would be my recommendations. I can't wait to see your finished product. I'm hoping to throw a set on my project someday, but I'm not going to lie, I'm terrified of the thought of dropping the k-member.

 

[Chris_Murder]

Some people have used MAC headers to do this. I didn't want to use MACs because they don't have a 1 piece header flange. And i'm done with crappy 4 piece flanges. Yes I will most like have to cut out and add in some different routed primaries to clear the steering shaft. I am not going to waste any money on a "Sweet" (thats company name) steering joint so I will build around the stock rag joint(steering shaft). I bought a set of donor headers for 25 where the dude lost one primary slip tube from the set so there not useable. I bought these to scavange different bends and pieces to use on the BBK ones.

It might be worth investing in the flaming river steering joint, since your very mechanically inclined you could fab up the D stock and remaining pieces. Or for simplicity you could order the kit for the MN12/FN10 from the member DLF. That would give you much more room to work around as well as decreased slop in the steering and a more durable material near an extreme heat source.

 

[chris2523]

but I'm not going to lie, I'm terrified of the thought of dropping the k-member.

i've had mine off. it wasn't too bad.

 

[Chris_Murder]

i've had mine off. it wasn't too bad.

It's one of the only parts I haven't removed from my car. I have the sockets, but without a proper 4 post/2 post/rotary lift or a new air compressor for my home garage I'm nervous to remove those epoxy coated bolts from the chassis for the first time.

 

[Right on the Mark]

I am fabbing the top engine mount support and lateral x braces to hold motor in 100% stock spot with K member dropped out on my lift. I have a brand new oil pan(old rusted bad) and oil filter mount gasket that both have been leaking .Also new(slightly used) front air strut going in and going to score a used rack to throw in,so I can kill 5 birds with one stone. I am hoping people will notice by now I am C H E A P on this car, I will not waste money on this car. Everything is used and min 50% off. Only thing I bought new is I just ordered the Mandrel Exhaust kit for it.

 

[Chris_Murder]

I am fabbing the top engine mount support and lateral x braces to hold motor in 100% stock spot with K member dropped out on my lift. I have a brand new oil pan(old rusted bad) and oil filter mount gasket that both have been leaking .Also new(slightly used) front air strut going in and going to score a used rack to throw in,so I can kill 5 birds with one stone.

Sounds like a good plan. I've been following your other threads. I love the quality of your work and your attention to detail. It's truly inspiring.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Chris thanks for the kind words. Some peeps think I do hack stuff. I just make stuff fit on the cheap. I think some around here getting sick of me posting. I just learned how to post pics and been going wild. I will do a pic diary of this to if wanted. I want people to see where all my big money has to go. This stuff right here, right heeeeerrreere, is the main ride.

 

[Don Pfau]

I have enjoyed your posts. I'm a little on the cheap side myself. So I and I'm sure some others like alternative ways of doing things. You have been very busy. Wish I had that kind of energy. This isn't a very good video but it was my Marks very first race and it was against a GTO. you can show your neighbor. I was very easy on it since it as the first time. YouTube - Don's Supercharged Mark VIII Vs GTO

 

[philly0420]

Some peeps think I do hack stuff. I just make stuff fit on the cheap. I think some around here getting sick of me posting. I just learned how to post pics and been going wild.

I don't think you dp hack work at all. After dropping big money on a stang and having to sell it because of the economy, I am all for cheap mods.

If you stop posting, your just gonna have to come to my house and do all these mods to my car. That way I can see how its done.

Post all the pics you want please.

My personal philosophy is if you don't have at least two or three haters hating you. Your doing something wrong.

 

[slowmkviii]

i like your posts sir dont stop

 

[Scorpio1118_2000]

keep it coming, I can't wait to see what you do next.

 

[THANATOS]

OK one of the young punks(really a good kid me just being grumpy old man) across the street just got a 2005 GTO 5.7L. He went to track first time and ran a 14.2 so I still had him beat with the slowest car in fleet the MK8.Tonight he runs a 13.8. Time to step up some for the old girl. I bough these awhile back to do some tube tweaking on drivers side. Almost all mustang headers fit on pass side so I'm crossing fingers there. These are little ugly before sandblasting so forgive the PRE look. Think I will have them on this week??
Here is the pass side that i hope drops in for 50% less work

Here is drivers side This one will need some tube relocation work

This is stage 1 of "operation snap necks"

You have been doing a lot of great work on your car. It would be nice to see it all in one place. why dont you make a progress thread?

 

[97MarkJA]

Chris thanks for the kind words. Some peeps think I do hack stuff. I just make stuff fit on the cheap. I think some around here getting sick of me posting. I just learned how to post pics and been going wild. I will do a pic diary of this to if wanted. I want people to see where all my big money has to go. This stuff right here, right heeeeerrreere, is the main ride.

Hey, I dont think its hack work at all. The right tools and skill is what I see.
Some people will/can pay others to do the work, I myself enjoy the process and knowing its done right.

 

[Right on the Mark]

Ok Started stage 1. Finished up the engine support and engine limiter. Here are some shots of the builds.

Went out to my steel scrap pile and found a nice 1 3/4 dia steel pipe with .200 wall. The only thing it was 6 inches to short to reach from fender to fender on the mark. I found a solid 1 5/16 bar 18 inches long to weld into middle of long pipe.
Here is pipe cut in half and chamfered and the raw 1 5/6 bar before turning.

Here turning bar so it will press into the tube and shot of all turned.

Heres bar all welded with 6 inches in both tubes. Ok that done.

Here are the mount rings, made 4 of these with lock down bolts. The legs are 5/8 sq solid steel and the foot is 1/4 steel.

The holes in foot are to bolt to fender so this does not move front to back in car.

Here being spot welded with location bars to know where it is.

Here are the tabs and turn buckles that are welded to the other two slide rings.

Here is all painted and all in place.

Now on to the engine limiter brace. This is made out of 1/2 steel rod and 1/4 plate. All welded and painted.

Here is everything in place to keep motor in the same spot as stock with the K-member out.

Now to find a quality E-18 socket. I know I can use a certain regular socket on them but rather have the E-18. Cost me 10 dollars for 2 turn buckles to do this whole thing.
Here you can see where this mounts to the 2 engine bolts that have studs on them and the 2 factory bolts on the rad support.

 

[slowmkviii]

I like it
I want one

 

[chris2523]

you sir, have the skills. keep up the good work.

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

What weight are those turnbuckles rated for?

I'm sure you made sure they were good enough, but I'd just hate to see them fail while you're under them...

Also, you may want to check the grade of those studs. I'm pretty sure most people lift by the alternator mounts.

Not hatin', I just want to voice some concerns in my head. If I didn't voice them, and then something bad happened, I'd feel really bad.

Keep up the good work.

 

[CobraStar_LS8]

What weight are those turnbuckles rated for?

I'm sure you made sure they were good enough, but I'd just hate to see them fail while you're under them...

Also, you may want to check the grade of those studs. I'm pretty sure most people lift by the alternator mounts.

Not hatin', I just want to voice some concerns in my head. If I didn't voice them, and then something bad happened, I'd feel really bad.

Keep up the good work.

+1 wouldn't want a progress thread ending with a funeral

 

[GMAN]

Chris thanks for the kind words. Some peeps think I do hack stuff. I just make stuff fit on the cheap. I think some around here getting sick of me posting. I just learned how to post pics and been going wild. I will do a pic diary of this to if wanted. I want people to see where all my big money has to go. This stuff right here, right heeeeerrreere, is the main ride.

Keep on pic posting brother!!

 

[Right on the Mark]

What weight are those turnbuckles rated for?

I'm sure you made sure they were good enough, but I'd just hate to see them fail while you're under them...

Also, you may want to check the grade of those studs. I'm pretty sure most people lift by the alternator mounts.

Not hatin', I just want to voice some concerns in my head. If I didn't voice them, and then something bad happened, I'd feel really bad.

Keep up the good work.

I'm gonna start off by saying I feel the love from this site. Thanks for all the concern to my welfare. I really mean that. Now on to turnbuckles.
#1)I bought these alum ones for mock up, no one local had steel ones. The alum 5/16 ones are rated for only 140 lbs x 2 would only be 280lbs total weight.
#2) The steel 5/16 ones are rated at 800lbs each X2 is 1600 lbs total thats 2.5 times weight on engine.(figure 600 for alum engine)
#3) The timing cover 5/16 bolt/studs are same dia as the alt mount bolts that everyone uses to hold up engine. Alt bolts only have a spread of 4.5 inches where timing cover studs have a spread of 12 inches. 12 inches better load spacing and help to not let engine rotate.
#4)I will be making the turn buckle part out of steel and welding the eyes shut. Just looking for left hand tap now.
#5) Again thanks for the input!!!

 

[Raped Ape]

I am interested in what you are doing here with the home made bracing and straddled beam, but I am lost in the reason for them. Can you explain to me what they are for? I just can not figure it out or my drugs are kicking in. Thanks

 

[slowmkviii]

as stated earlier he wants to make the long tubes work in
his car so he need to drop the K member