$1000 Rear Turbo build Thread

almost done with the tuning, just one more try should do it :)
Ill have a working video and some pulls to :)
Also i apparently need a Recirc BOV and widebands which i have picked out.
How would i make a Recirc?
 
If your BOV is before the mass air meter you dont need a recirc bov setup. The main reason for them is so you aren't venting air that has already been accounted for by the MAF. And with running low boost even if you didnt the driveability issues would be pretty minimal. Just some slight stuttering between shifts.
 
LLADNAR said:
If your BOV is before the mass air meter you dont need a recirc bov setup. The main reason for them is so you aren't venting air that has already been accounted for by the MAF. And with running low boost even if you didnt the driveability issues would be pretty minimal. Just some slight stuttering between shifts.
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OK its fine then
 
Also are you running 2 pumps, it has been my experience with turbos that you can't just pump oil to it if it is mounted low. You also have to pump the oil away from it since normally turbos are mounted high enough that once they get the oil they gravity drain back to, the oil pan or what ever resevoir it is going into.
 
Has this died? The OP hasn't been on since his 2/21 post.
 
I wanted to see the finished product which most others would call a prototype not a finished product
 
Best wishes

I see at least as much right as I see wrong. And the wrong can be replaced by simply going to better materials. I'm most concerned by the oiling system. It's simply not complete. It's been my experience with the chink turbos that they need a tear-down to remove the swarf that wasn't cleaned-out properly, and to look for problems created by primitive assembly. And you can't beat the price.

Let's hope he gets everything worked out!

KS
 
Shredicus said:
I say skip all this turbo hoo-hah and go straight for the big leagues.

Direct Exhaust Injection
mht2993(1).jpg
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LMAO!!!

Oh God I love the first reply to that idiots post too! lol
 
Sorry for not posting here in a while...
I got the turbo welded and basically totally redone.
Im done building the kit and now its around 1k $.
Ive been making boost but very little for some time. But now for some reason, im making 0 boost. Everything is 100% sealed up with no leaks. Im just trying to figure out what im missing here.
Video shortly :)
 
Not to be a "d!ck". I updated your topic title. So members have an accurate idea on cost. Thank you for updating your topic and keep us posted. Always nice to see someone thinking outside the box.:) Good luck on finding the current issue. Wish I could help. Don't know enough about turbos to make any suggestions.
 
should be easy to track down.

check for exhaust leak, check for boost side leak, check to make sure boost gauge is working (and installed correctly), check waste gate/BOV. if all that is good, it must be a problem with turbo, either sh!ty build or way sized wrong. i would find it hard to believe that even a wrong sized snail wouldn't produce any boost, too small should spool up instantly and hit a limited amount of boost almost instantly, too big of a turbo should still build some boost (probably after a week of lag) as the LS motor isn't super tiny.
 
Best and easiest way to track down a boost leak and its fool proof and doesn't cost much. I used to test all of my Supras this way before dyno pulls and tuning. Take the intake off of the inlet side. Get a PVC cap from the harware store and a valve stem from the auto store. Try to find a cap that is as flat as possible. Drill out the center of the cap to the correct size to fit the valve stem and install with rubber cement and allow to dry. Install onto intake side of the turbo and clamp it to the silicone. Use a compressor to charge your system to at least 15-20 psi. This should be WAY over what you would run. Once it is charged, listen for hissing. Also it would be wise to pick up a tire pressure guage that has a dial on it so you can keep an eye on the charge. Even if you can't hear the hissing, and the pressure is dropping, there is still a boost leak coming from somewhere. You can mix a heavy solution of soap to water in a spray bottle and spray it onto your connections too. Any little bit helps when tracking down a boost leak.
 
1LoudLS said:
should be easy to track down.

check for exhaust leak, check for boost side leak, check to make sure boost gauge is working (and installed correctly), check waste gate/BOV. if all that is good, it must be a problem with turbo, either sh!ty build or way sized wrong. i would find it hard to believe that even a wrong sized snail wouldn't produce any boost, too small should spool up instantly and hit a limited amount of boost almost instantly, too big of a turbo should still build some boost (probably after a week of lag) as the LS motor isn't super tiny.
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An undersized turbo would still make boost, just one the low end and the wastegate would reguate PSI throughout the entire powerband. You would still feel the pull, but just at low end and then it would even out throughout the rest of the RPM range. The power would still be there, but there would not be that noticable pull that everyone likes to feel from a turbo. At least it's a boost leak and not a boost creep. Boost creep can spell disaster for stock engines, and it's usually the wastegate spring malfunctioning.
 
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