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Replaced my transmission a while back and lost the plate. Finally came across one but I don't recall what the thread pitch/bolt length is supposed to be. I do recall it being a 13mm head. Anyone know off hand or can check? About to go on a long road trip through some dusty trails and...

Any interest in selling the rims if you decide to total it out?

Always do the safety stuff before looks. Fix the rear shocks.

I've had the Moog arm side bushings on for ~1.5 years now. No cracks in them and they 'feel' OK.

Debris blocking the needle/motor from turning? Bad motor?

Looks like there was an aftermarket security system installed in that car at one point. That blue wire I would imagine is aftermarket and ran from the location in your picture to the 'brain' of the 3rd party security system, likely to disable starting the car until the system was disarmed. PS -...

I would try swapping EATC at this point as it seems you've done all other things I would suggest trying first. Very strange it does not blow at all with a new control module, maybe all of the ones you've tried (including the 'new' one) are duds?

Your entire post screams your ex-GF did it. (You even admitted she has done it in the past...) Once a keyer, always a keyer. Real loser thing to do.

The thunderbird ones don't have the height sensor mount-balls on them. Don't buy them if you're still on air unless you want to deal with attaching that to the replacements.

$75? He must think you're a sucker.

I paid something like $250 in labor to have a brand new 28 spline torsen unit & brand new ring & pinion installed into my case. I supplied the master rebuild kit & IRS specific seals.

Looks like a slightly less ugly Thunderbird of the era. Yuck.

https://www.fordracingparts.com/download/tipsPDF/SpeedometerGearUsageChart.pdf Simple to determine what you need by looking at this chart.

Any chance of making these in bulk & selling them?

Yr not the first person I've heard had a bad experience there.

I didn't use the tool on my Gen 2 when I replaced mine.

Everything so far says bad head-gasket. Run the hydrocarbon test and put this issue to rest.

Pump will run at key on regardless of the CKP. It sounds to me like it's time to drop your gas tank.

You can drill it out fairly easily with a hole saw bit.

I didn't need to remove any screws when I changed my ignition cylinder. Turn key to on, depress the detent (which IS a PITA to find) and slide the cylinder out. The bezel pops right out then.