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That looks good Driller what's under the hood and what's she run?
She got a tune up today with new plugs, air and fuel filters, and a fresh oil/filter change. I see that I need new valve cover gaskets so I have a set coming. While I have the covers off I'm going to strip the front of the motor down and clean/paint everything I can and just do a makeover under the hood. It's pretty clean but will look 10X better
Can't wait to see the bay all cleaned up Hope you powdercoat the covers And remember to post pics
Boss 5.0L Modular block, stroked to 5.3L, Kellogg crank, Manley rods, Gibtec pistons, Fox Lake "B" heads w/ PAC Racing valve train, Hogans intake, Canton 8 qt. oilpan, 12.6 CR, naturally aspirated. Best ET 12.68 @ 109 (so far).
Hey everyone. I'm a newbie, just acquired a '97 VIII blk/blk. So. Cali desert car, 2nd owner, garage kept, 90k miles. Upgraded audio to Kenwood touch screen, tinted windows, flushed engine, power steering, brake fluid, rear dif, and tranny and replaced all with Amsoil synthetics. Have Stop Tec front and rear perf and slotted rotors with Hawk pads on the way. R&r'd the chrome accent strips on the bottom of the doors and front of rear wheels.
Very nice And I see the wheels are on correctly nice
Thank you, slowmkvii. One big problem is the washer switch at the end of the washer and turn arm is missing, and been all over the galaxy looking for one, but have been unsuccessful. Any ideas?
there a couple of members on here who sell them so post in wtb parts and wait or go to the facebook site and ask
Thanks slowmkvii. Found on eBay from racebronco2. Button and spring. Hopefully I'll figure out how to install it properly.
Was working on markviiidrea's car and though this would make a good pic
No heat. Ran the diagnostic and got error codes 155 030 Can't find what they indicate. Anyone know?
EATC code 155: SCP invalid or missing data for displays (caused by MC) 030 Self test indicates automatic temperature control sensor shorted Fix 30 and 155 will probably go away Also possible blend door arm or actuator Depending on the year
My '97 has a serious condensation problem in the left headlamp but couldn't find any videos or other instruction on how to remove it to clear and reseal it, been looking all day. Any help is appreciated. It looks relatively easy by just removing the retaining screw at the rear of the assembly. What else do I need to do?
YEEEEAAAHH!! I just now got a windshield wiper button-switch for my '97 from racebronco2, installed it, and it WORKS. I now have an operating windshield washer! What a relief! It's the little things in life that can be so great.
What DIDN'T I do to my Mark? Flew to Burbank CA fro Dallas, TX. Picked it up in California from 2nd owner--all records. Desert car and garage-kept, absolutely no rust anywhere. Drove back to Dallas for: 1)window tint 2)Upgraded to Kenwood Touchscreen Sirrius radio From Dallas drove to Jacksonville, FL, then Miami. From Miami took it to The Magic Mechanic in Orlando where I: 3) I had all fluids flushed -- oil, tranny, p-steering, brake lines, rear differential and replaced all with Amsoil synthetics. From there drove it to CT where I: 4) R&R'd fr and rr rotors and replaced with Stop Tech racing rotors with Hawk pads 5) R&R'd tensioner, pully and serpentine belt 6) Located and installed washer button -- and it WORKS! 7) Today had front suspension -- ball joints, bushings and sway bar end links replaced with MOOG problem solvers -- HUGE difference in ride and handling (of course). Friday to detail shop for complete polish and ultimate detail job. Next week having the heater assembly replaced -- the box was busted so replacing the actuator would not have made any difference. And then . . . . I'm f*(&#$g done for the time being. I don't have a girlfriend, I have a very, VERY demanding and expensive mistress.