What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Discovered that the intermittent cooling loss was a failing water pump. Oh well, at least it's easy.
 
93mkviii said:
It's not fun I'll tell you that much. But if you can snatch a pair of lenses without cracking them it's doable. 1100 leds and i have four individual strips and i still am debating how i want the turning/braking/parking lamps. I'm wondering how the leds will hold up after years. Btw they are very bright without the dimmer. It's about four times brighter in full. Using less amps then before still...
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I wondering where the led's are, inside or out. I changed the 6 lights behind the reflector with 9 element red led's, making the 2 outside ones brake lights. Big difference. I like what you have done. Have any pics of the building process? Thanks TONYyyy
 
Sigh...Bought a elm327 Bluetooth obd2 reader for the phone and it didn't work. Bought a second one that was supposed to be a genuine bafx unit but turns out it was a clone and ebay terminated the sellers listing days before I received it, probably due to other buyer complaints (As seen in his recent feedback).

So now I have to try and get my money back AGAIN. I'll just go ahead and order a genuine one from a reputable seller.

tldr: Don't buy cheap elm327's for our cars, they won't work.
 
Next time I go out to the car I'll have to look and see which bluetooth adapter I have but it was cheap and works great with the torque app on my samsung galaxy 4. Not only can you look at codes but also view/datalog any of the ecu parameters.
 
drobs5 said:
Next time I go out to the car I'll have to look and see which bluetooth adapter I have but it was cheap and works great with the torque app on my samsung galaxy 4. Not only can you look at codes but also view/datalog any of the ecu parameters.
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It would have to be a specific model, a lot of the cheapies look the same but have completely different boards. I'd be interested in which it is though.
I've played with torque before and love it. It's not something I'd use all the time but for under <$30 (App and dongle) it's a great tool to have.
 
It can be hit or miss, especially with the device supporting Fords. All of them my phones see, but they all can't communicate with the PCM.

I have a couple that support all cars I have tried it on. I also have a couple that that work on Toyota and Chevy, but not on Ford.

For around 6 bucks a piece, I prefer to just get one and leave them in the car, and also have one to loan for people to datalog or watch for misfires.
 
Lownslowlsc said:
Sigh...Bought a elm327 Bluetooth obd2 reader for the phone and it didn't work. Bought a second one that was supposed to be a genuine bafx unit but turns out it was a clone and ebay terminated the sellers listing days before I received it, probably due to other buyer complaints (As seen in his recent feedback).

So now I have to try and get my money back AGAIN. I'll just go ahead and order a genuine one from a reputable seller.

tldr: Don't buy cheap elm327's for our cars, they won't work.
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i bought this one and it has yet to fail me.
Mark VIIIs, LS, Focus, Flex, VWs, Volvos, Nissans, etc.
everything but the 97 Powerstroke, but no other code readers i've had work with it either, so its just a problem with the truck.
most things i do through Torque on Android, and many of the Fords i have also had great luck with Forscan.
 
chris2523 said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i bought this one and it has yet to fail me.
Mark VIIIs, LS, Focus, Flex, VWs, Volvos, Nissans, etc.
everything but the 97 Powerstroke, but no other code readers i've had work with it either, so its just a problem with the truck.
most things i do through Torque on Android, and many of the Fords i have also had great luck with Forscan.
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I'll be buying a known genuine unit from a seller on ebay as it's $7 cheaper due to shipping (No prime account). That and he's about a 30min drive from me so I should get it in a day or two.
 
New Motor mounts... DONE
Oil filter adapter and oil pan gasket... DONE
New Radiator... DONE
New thermostat and gasket (cause of my very first overheat most likely)... DONE
New water pump... DONE

Now please don't overheat and piss all over the driveway!
 
mark0101, where is that yard and where in Florida are you?

I am in the St.Cloud/Kissimmee area.
 
Received my Bafx obd2 a couple days ago and bought Torque Pro..


Lack of available sensors pisses me off. I really wanted it to read misfires and a couple other things. I have no interest in 0-60 times and whatever other crap it offers. Oh well.
 
New Wix air filter, replaced the coolant temp sensor, painted the alternator bracket and installed the crossover tube I painted.

IMAG0279.jpg

IMAG0279.jpg
 
Overheat saga continues. So the fan doesn't turn on sometimes and I am thinking it is the temp sensor. Replaced the sensor and now it's time to wait and see.
 
The main reason our cars over heat is because the heater core is plugging up. Check it and make sure that is not the case. If the heater core is plugged no coolant can flow out of the left head. I hope this helps.
 
mark0101 said:
Overheat saga continues. So the fan doesn't turn on sometimes and I am thinking it is the temp sensor. Replaced the sensor and now it's time to wait and see.
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It could be the vrcm if the temp sensor doesn't fix it.



You did have that incident a few months ago....
 
robsMarkVIII said:
The main reason our cars over heat is because the heater core is plugging up. Check it and make sure that is not the case. If the heater core is plugged no coolant can flow out of the left head. I hope this helps.
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i have never heard that before.
 
Saw this on one of the other Lincoln forums. Guy was having all kinds of overheating problems, checked the heater core and it was plugging up and not flowing well. He changed it and car stopped over heating. The way the coolant comes out of the passenger side head if the core stops flowing that head will get hot. The 03-04 Cobra have problems with the drivers side head getting so hot the valve seats come out. That is why they put a passage in the drivers side head and connect it to the passenger side head passage. This let's coolant flow through that head and keep it cool. I have done that with my engine and I am also replacing my heater core. My car had a bad over heating problems. When I say bad it got so hot it melted the plastic on the knock sensors. I hope this helps others with the over heating problem that our cars have.
 
Lownslowlsc said:
It could be the vrcm if the temp sensor doesn't fix it.



You did have that incident a few months ago....
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The cars done for good now. Fan was running, everything seems operational, heater core is good but coolant always bursts out the reservoir. Yes I have burped it and replaced every single component in the cooling system. All signs point to head gasket.
 
Trouble shot & replaced the R/H air strut check valve solenoid. No more sagging R/H front fender!
 
mark0101 said:
The cars done for good now. Fan was running, everything seems operational, heater core is good but coolant always bursts out the reservoir. Yes I have burped it and replaced every single component in the cooling system. All signs point to head gasket.
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Did you replace the coolant reservoir cap? I had an "overheating" car that just turned out to be a bad cap...

The relief valve inside of it gave up, and allowed the coolant to spill out whenever it got up to temperature.
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
Did you replace the coolant reservoir cap? I had an "overheating" car that just turned out to be a bad cap...

The relief valve inside of it gave up, and allowed the coolant to spill out whenever it got up to temperature.
Click to expand...

Yep, did that too.
 
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