Bassani Mufflers are on. Very happy with the sound and honestly would not want to go any louder than just replacing the mufflers. There is a small (i'm talking minuscule) amount of drone between 1500-2000 rpm. Maybe this would be taken care of with an X-pipe? Anyways, very happy with the Bassani's, and again all I did was replace the mufflers and put on 3.5" tips.
What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
- Start date
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks. I've seen confusion on here with people referencing sport/nonsport as a deciding factor, engines, years, etc. All I "knew" was that the manual had a 3.07. Alright, so easy enough, just find a Gen 1 V6 rear.
8% higher gearing, LSD, and a tune for power/speedometer correction should make the car a little more exciting. Except now I'm looking at several hundred dollars... based on quick eBay searches: ~100-150 for the diff (full carrier), ~100-150 for the traclock, ~50 for an LSD rebuild kit, $350 for an SCT, and maybe $200 for labor? I'm not really keen on opening up a diff at this time. I'm not sure about pulling the diff out myself, though that may just be a drab feeling based on the weather.
Should I be concerned with wear on seals and bearings in the used diff or should the problems present themselves quickly from external examination?
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
the diff will have a tag on it that lists the gearing.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
Doing some light window shopping on LSes being parted on on craigslist makes it a little difficult to crawl under
But thanks, I'll be sure to check for a tag when I actually get around to this project.Anyway, today I took the LS down a packed-snow road and was so impressed with Advancetrac preventing me from swerving, I wanted to show it off to my girlfriend. A few hours later, I picked her up, goosed it in a turn to show off and... I spun the car an extra 45 degrees. I just hit the brakes and accepted my failure. We both just laughed at me. (it was a <10mph maneuver in a residential street with clear lines of sight, just sayin. I'm not trying to crash, just learn how the car reacts)
Turns out AT takes a second or two to go into "aggressive" mode, it seems.
The "beauty" of Ford's stability control systems is they allow a certain amount of fun before kicking-in.
Yes, and it seems the higher the speed the lower that allowance is. He will find that out when he has to do accident avoidance and references AdvanceTrac by its nickname... JESUS!
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
So far I've called it "wtf" when it kicks in in a hard turn and feels like the car suddenly has [actual] rear steering, even with the Deeza toe inks
Deaconblue
Well-Known LVC Member
Its fun find out new things about the car (I have only had it for 14 months now) so with the last three bitter cold and record breaking mornings I actually got to see the outside temperature drop into the negative values.
Yes I know, I would rather be back on vacation on the gulf coast of southern Florida, but your got to appreciate the little things too.
Yes I know, I would rather be back on vacation on the gulf coast of southern Florida, but your got to appreciate the little things too.
Got a hard start and service parking brake this morning. I guess after 7 years my battery has had enough.
The new Ford dealer I went to had some trouble trying to find my battery. They also assured me they had one in stock, they didn't. At least I wasn't the one taking it out and having to put it back in.
The new Ford dealer I went to had some trouble trying to find my battery. They also assured me they had one in stock, they didn't. At least I wasn't the one taking it out and having to put it back in.
elephantrider
Dedicated LVC Member
finally got the leaky ac manifold hose replaced today. back to a fully charged
ac system !
that hose was around $400 !!!
ac system !
that hose was around $400 !!!
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
Center Console Latch, cheap easy fix.
My center console latch broke a few months back. The little round shafts on each side broke off. I would guess this is a common LS problem.
I tried the usual Superglue repair last week and this lasted a day. Superglue just isn't good for repairs that put sideways stress on a part. From old modelling work I think there are a few varieties of superglue and accelerators that might work, but in general plastic and super glue is not a solid repair.
So, this weekend I was putzing around in the garage looking for some other glues or what have you to try to fix the latch again, I was thinking wire or nail as a new shaft.
My eyes glanced over a box of Pop Rivets. AHA!. The metal shaft would work fine and the rivet itself on the shaft might even work well as a bearing surface. Even the rivet collar might work as a side bearing surface for the latch.
The rivets I had on hand were the usual big box store pop rivets, 1/8 inch if I recall. I used the shortest rivet size that I had. I did not measure the shaft but eyeballed it and chose a 0.078" drill bit from my kit. I also used a hex head mounted 1/16" bit to create a deep pilot hole. The next size up drill for my driver was 3/32 which is maybe too big and probably would require glue to keep the shaft from falling out. In my mind gluing the shaft defeats the possibility that I could replace the rivet in the future if it failed. Drill size is not critical, just a nice press fit is what you want, without making the plastic too thin.
I put the 0.078 inch bit in a pin vise for the final hole. IF I had a electric driver compatible drill bit of that size I would have used that, but I think this size is not common in those driver kits. The size of final bit may vary depending on what shaft size your rivets use.
I used a small electric screwdriver since it would turn slowly and allow me better control than a potentially dancing high speed bit. You could also use the appropriate size bits in a Pin Vise, but it would be slower. You could also use a regula slow speed drill if you don't have a pin vise. The pilot hole makes it safer to drill the final hole at speed.
I used the 1/16" pilot bit to drill as deep as the bit would allow. You MUST Keep the bit in line with the latch material so it stays centered. Drill both sides. MAKE SURE IT IS CENTERED WITH PLENTY OF MEAT TO SUPPORT THE SHAFT.
Then I took my 0.078 and finished the hole.
Before you insert the pop rivet shaft, I recommend shortening it a bit so that the two rivets don't interfere. Also you probably should use a Dremel tool sanding disk or stone to flatten the collar of the rivet so it doesn't interefere with the mounting slots of the latch in the console cover. Half moon grind is about right. Depending on how long the rivet is, you might also need to shorten one of the rivets to fit the shorter mounting slot in the console cover. Test fit to be sure.
The shaft of the rivet was a press fit that took some decent finger pressure to press into the hole but it was a perfect fit. It is easily removable too. Be sure to orient the flat side of the rivet so it doesn't interfere with the mounting slots of the console cover. You CAN do the grind after pressing into the latch and test fitting to the cover if you like, or twist to correct rotation.
Once it fits in the slot, just screw the covers back in place and Viola!. It should all work and as long as you didn't drill the hole out to too thin a wall, the latch should be stronger than original.
I would guess this fix cost me maybe 10 cents and required the use of a drill driver, and two bits that either mount in the drill driver or a pin vise to hold them. No glue is needed unless you were forced to use a larger bit than the shaft. All the screws are Torx head, forget size but the same. Removing the cover from the console allows easier work and trial fitting without body contortions. You will need to remove the console cover plate and the smaller latch cover plate, then the latch should just fall out. Also note the tail of the latch goes under the cover rather than over as might seem logical. If you get it wrong, you will know since the latch cover won't screw down otherwise.
A cheap easy fix. I am cheap and love cheap fixes that work, especially for the LS parts hog. You could also just use a nail or wire instead of the rivet, but the rivet with the shaft looks cooler, and the diameter of the rivet fits better.
Jim Henderson
My center console latch broke a few months back. The little round shafts on each side broke off. I would guess this is a common LS problem.
I tried the usual Superglue repair last week and this lasted a day. Superglue just isn't good for repairs that put sideways stress on a part. From old modelling work I think there are a few varieties of superglue and accelerators that might work, but in general plastic and super glue is not a solid repair.
So, this weekend I was putzing around in the garage looking for some other glues or what have you to try to fix the latch again, I was thinking wire or nail as a new shaft.
My eyes glanced over a box of Pop Rivets. AHA!. The metal shaft would work fine and the rivet itself on the shaft might even work well as a bearing surface. Even the rivet collar might work as a side bearing surface for the latch.
The rivets I had on hand were the usual big box store pop rivets, 1/8 inch if I recall. I used the shortest rivet size that I had. I did not measure the shaft but eyeballed it and chose a 0.078" drill bit from my kit. I also used a hex head mounted 1/16" bit to create a deep pilot hole. The next size up drill for my driver was 3/32 which is maybe too big and probably would require glue to keep the shaft from falling out. In my mind gluing the shaft defeats the possibility that I could replace the rivet in the future if it failed. Drill size is not critical, just a nice press fit is what you want, without making the plastic too thin.
I put the 0.078 inch bit in a pin vise for the final hole. IF I had a electric driver compatible drill bit of that size I would have used that, but I think this size is not common in those driver kits. The size of final bit may vary depending on what shaft size your rivets use.
I used a small electric screwdriver since it would turn slowly and allow me better control than a potentially dancing high speed bit. You could also use the appropriate size bits in a Pin Vise, but it would be slower. You could also use a regula slow speed drill if you don't have a pin vise. The pilot hole makes it safer to drill the final hole at speed.
I used the 1/16" pilot bit to drill as deep as the bit would allow. You MUST Keep the bit in line with the latch material so it stays centered. Drill both sides. MAKE SURE IT IS CENTERED WITH PLENTY OF MEAT TO SUPPORT THE SHAFT.
Then I took my 0.078 and finished the hole.
Before you insert the pop rivet shaft, I recommend shortening it a bit so that the two rivets don't interfere. Also you probably should use a Dremel tool sanding disk or stone to flatten the collar of the rivet so it doesn't interefere with the mounting slots of the latch in the console cover. Half moon grind is about right. Depending on how long the rivet is, you might also need to shorten one of the rivets to fit the shorter mounting slot in the console cover. Test fit to be sure.
The shaft of the rivet was a press fit that took some decent finger pressure to press into the hole but it was a perfect fit. It is easily removable too. Be sure to orient the flat side of the rivet so it doesn't interfere with the mounting slots of the console cover. You CAN do the grind after pressing into the latch and test fitting to the cover if you like, or twist to correct rotation.
Once it fits in the slot, just screw the covers back in place and Viola!. It should all work and as long as you didn't drill the hole out to too thin a wall, the latch should be stronger than original.
I would guess this fix cost me maybe 10 cents and required the use of a drill driver, and two bits that either mount in the drill driver or a pin vise to hold them. No glue is needed unless you were forced to use a larger bit than the shaft. All the screws are Torx head, forget size but the same. Removing the cover from the console allows easier work and trial fitting without body contortions. You will need to remove the console cover plate and the smaller latch cover plate, then the latch should just fall out. Also note the tail of the latch goes under the cover rather than over as might seem logical. If you get it wrong, you will know since the latch cover won't screw down otherwise.
A cheap easy fix. I am cheap and love cheap fixes that work, especially for the LS parts hog. You could also just use a nail or wire instead of the rivet, but the rivet with the shaft looks cooler, and the diameter of the rivet fits better.
Jim Henderson
Thought you'd like this......
First Gear Ratio
1) : 4.714Second Gear Ratio
1) : 3.143Third Gear Ratio
1) : 2.106Fourth Gear Ratio
1) : 1.667Fifth Gear Ratio
1) : 1.285Sixth Gear Ratio
1) : 1.000Seventh Gear Ratio
1) : 0.839Eighth Gear Ratio
1) : 0.667Final Drive Axle Ratio
1) : 3.077
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
I broke 70000 miles today. I think I'm actually running under 7500 a year. Maybe I can change my insurance (over 7500) and save an extra 0.003%
Thought you'd like this......
First Gear Ratio
Second Gear Ratio
Third Gear Ratio
Fourth Gear Ratio
Fifth Gear Ratio
Sixth Gear Ratio
Seventh Gear Ratio
Eighth Gear Ratio
Final Drive Axle Ratio
That's like double overdrive. So, the axle ratio is 3.077 or, do you mean just final drive ratio?
That's the way it's supposed to work with the differential braking. Sometimes it feels as if someone has tied a chain to the front in and just pulls the nose around. Try making it rotate under AdvanceTrac control like during a U-turn.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
With all this race car LS talk here and Facebook (race seats, steering wheels, coils), I bet I could hook up 4 hydraulic flaps to each brake and give me additional high-speed control a la Pagani Huarya style. Should shave at least 1/2 a second off my 1/4 mile!
But yeah, Advancetrac is pretty nifty. I try to not push it too much. I like my speed and my turns, but I see Advancetrac kicking in as meaning I messed up. Seeing it like that just keeps me out of a little less trouble.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
Why can't I stay away from the Facebook group? I can't stand most of the pictures and half the people... but I just want to help the people with legitimate questions
And then I drag myself into arguments. I need a life. Or warmer weather for my LS, which will easily suffice.
And then I drag myself into arguments. I need a life. Or warmer weather for my LS, which will easily suffice.
I agree with your stance on the AdvanceTrac although, I do use it sometimes to surprise those pesky Audis. I find it amusing to see the look on some poor guy's face after I just turned inside of him on a sharp turn. There's nothing they can do about it on a wet surface.
Who are you on Facebook?
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
Come on, you can't spot my blunt personality when I disagree with taste? My profile picture is related to the one here (Optimus Prime). My name is Francis and I got screwed over by FB anti-spam name detector and can't change it to Frank... It's been years since I made the switch
It's kinda weird matching up FB names to LvC usernames... I basically picture all you guys here *as* your car. The only person I picture here as a person is NateEff or something, because he has the same haircut as the only other Nate I know.
Speaking of which, n8bachelor and nastynaters, do you guys have Beiber bowl comb overs?
Yeah. I don't have my real name on FB or here. I use my nickname online. Specifically because I can spew all my craziness and not have it affect my job. I work for an ultra conservative financial company. Things seem to get back to them that happen on FB. So I would just rather not deal with all that madness. :shifty:
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
I started that way, then realized I barely even post on Facebook, let alone post anything controversial.