What did you do to your LS today?

but I have no leaks.
(Hint: you have leaks, you just don't recognize them.)
Why does everyone say they have no leaks, when they do?
lol because a "leak" simply must be spewing coolant all over!
well, gravity on Earth eventually brings it down to driveway level, doesn't it ? Pay your $30 Blk04LS :)

Apparently not. Feel free to pay the $30 for me, I'll keep mine ;)
 
Yesterday, I re gapped the plugs to .044. Then, I inspected the coolant hoses to try and find the leak. It was really a mess down there. I don't think its the upper radiator hose. All of the plastic components on the passenger side look new. Now, the lower hose with the two hoses going down to the oil cooler looks suspect. The maim lower hose looks so so but the two oil cooler hoses are soft and beat up looking. I also noticed at the top of the engine there is evidence of spray on the driver side from one of the small hoses under the throttle body and some of the other small hoses seemed worn out too. They had evidence of leaking from the clamp area. I also replace the intake silencer for the filter box.

Today,I washed all of the gunk off so I can see where its starting. Then I pulled that damn silencer right back off. It sounds to good and also let's me know when to get out of it to get the best economy. The regapped plugs seem to be working fine.
 
0.044" is just outside of the specified range for the V8. The range is 0.039" to 0.043" Your COPs will have shorter life since bigger gaps require higher voltages and more power. Higher voltages = more problems with breakdown of the epoxy. More power = more heating in the coils.
 
0.044" is just outside of the specified range for the V8. The range is 0.039" to 0.043" Your COPs will have shorter life since bigger gaps require higher voltages and more power. Higher voltages = more problems with breakdown of the epoxy. More power = more heating in the coils.
I bet its more like .043 or .042. I had one of those cheap wire type gauges and it had .040, .044, .045. .044 was very tight fit. Feelers next time. Thanks
 
It's best to set it to 1.0mm (0.039"). This allows for the gap to wear to 1.1mm (0.043") by the end of the 100K mile change interval.
Take care on how you adjust the gap. Take extreme care with a wire type gauge. The electrode is very easy to damage.
 
It's best to set it to 1.0mm (0.039"). This allows for the gap to wear to 1.1mm (0.043") by the end of the 100K mile change interval.
Take care on how you adjust the gap. Take extreme care with a wire type gauge. The electrode is very easy to damage.
I run coppers.
 
It's best to set it to 1.0mm (0.039"). This allows for the gap to wear to 1.1mm (0.043") by the end of the 100K mile change interval.
Take care on how you adjust the gap. Take extreme care with a wire type gauge. The electrode is very easy to damage.
I just did a double check with a new gauge and they are at 0.041. That should be good until winter time.
 
Less stress on the coils. Copper requires less power to deliver the spark.

I think (but don't absolutely know) that you may be mistaken there. Yes, copper is more conductive than platinum, but the difference is not great. On the other hand, the center electrode on copper plugs tends to be much bigger around than the center electrode on platinum plugs. Electrons jump off of smaller, sharper points much easier than they do from larger, blunt points. It's pretty well established that bigger point center electrodes (such as copper plugs have) require a higher trigger voltage for the arc to start. I would bet that you are causing the coils to use more power, not less. However, I doubt that either of us are willing to do the instrumentation to determine who wins that bet.
 
I think (but don't absolutely know) that you may be mistaken there. Yes, copper is more conductive than platinum, but the difference is not great. On the other hand, the center electrode on copper plugs tends to be much bigger around than the center electrode on platinum plugs. Electrons jump off of smaller, sharper points much easier than they do from larger, blunt points. It's pretty well established that bigger point center electrodes (such as copper plugs have) require a higher trigger voltage for the arc to start. I would bet that you are causing the coils to use more power, not less. However, I doubt that either of us are willing to do the instrumentation to determine who wins that bet.

Actually the Iridium center electrodes require even less less voltage than platinum - that is well documented.
 
Actually the Iridium center electrodes require even less less voltage than platinum - that is well documented.
Actually most spark plugs have copper cores its just what they plate the electrode with that determines the longevity. What most refer to as a copper plug has a nickel alloy plated electrode vs iridium or platinum both of which will last longer in a car driven normally. However, if you drive with a lot of spirit, those plugs could overheat and the resistance will increase. The best plug out there is Champion coppers that's why racers use them and side gapping is even better. I use NGK R V Power with the v notch electrode. I don't mind having to pull them every year to check the condition. I think leaving plugs in the car for 100K miles is crazy. I've run platinum plugs in my Mustang before and quickly found out they don't work well when you have a turbo because you have to re-gap them to prevent possible detonation issues. Then again there were no cops and I was running programmable ignition boxes. I'm not saying the expensive plugs aren't good I just have a driving style that warrants a different type of plug and I also have a modification that probably will kill those plugs.
 
Yes, when we state a specific type of electrode material (platinum, Iridium, etc...), we are referring to the material of the exposed pucks that are welded to the end of the center electrode and the underside of the ground strap - not the center portion of the spark plug which is encased in the ceramic along with the (typical) resistor.
 
Cleaned out all the crap that I had accumulated in my car over the last month. Vacuumed the carpet, conditioned the seats, wiped down door panels and dash.

Anyone have recommendations for cleaning out the engine bay? I live in an area with a lot of dust and would like to keep the engine clean
 
Oh yeah, well the last time I changed my plugs I asked autoparts guy for NGK Platinum and his response was "Why, NGK's are for Japanese cars".

Yeah man.
 
Couple of months ago I changed the front shocks with new motorcrafts. Made a huge difference. Couple of weeks ago I changed coils, spark plugs, o2 sensors, valve cover gaskets. On V6 is kind of a lot of work. Used motorcraft parts. Ran me about $550 or so for all the parts. Car runs great now, also last week had brand new tires installed and the ride is so much smoother now. Today I ordered new oem 4 rotors, akebono pads, SS brake lines and brake fluid. Will change that out once they all arrive.

I was thinking of going with S-type R brakes, but they cost about $700 more and might be a little too heavy for my V6 LS. Plus I don't want my ride to suffer with extra weight.

Been spending lot of cash on this car lately, but it does almost have 250000miles and it serves me goods, so it deserves it.
 


In progress ...

bumper1.jpg

bumper2.jpg

bumper3.jpg

side markers DELETE, plate holes DELETE and tow hook cover being molded in as if it was never there.
other parts being worked on are the trunk lid, spoiler, rear surround color matching, McLaren grille.
Silver Frost Metallic color match done by means of sending out my gas door.

Should be all finished this upcoming week.

Gotta get my LS back together so I can get it out of the garage and get my firewood in.
Haven't even driven it this season ... so sad, not enough time. too much to do, still trucking everyday.

bumper1.jpg


bumper2.jpg


bumper3.jpg
 
I simply waited for mine to get out of the bodyshop. Damn thing got side swiped by an 8 year old whose Grandmother let him drive. Then the witch switched seats with him and left the scene. Thank God for witnesses. $2600 in damage.
 


In progress ...

View attachment 828469677

View attachment 828469678

View attachment 828469679

side markers DELETE, plate holes DELETE and tow hook cover being molded in as if it was never there.
other parts being worked on are the trunk lid, spoiler, rear surround color matching, McLaren grille.
Silver Frost Metallic color match done by means of sending out my gas door.

Should be all finished this upcoming week.

Gotta get my LS back together so I can get it out of the garage and get my firewood in.
Haven't even driven it this season ... so sad, not enough time. too much to do, still trucking everyday.
Can't wait to see the finished product.
 
Cleaned out all the crap that I had accumulated in my car over the last month. Vacuumed the carpet, conditioned the seats, wiped down door panels and dash.

Anyone have recommendations for cleaning out the engine bay? I live in an area with a lot of dust and would like to keep the engine clean

BY HAND!... wet towel and a detergent..nothing more. I have this kit to help with tough areas:
$T2eC16d,!zQE9s3stYN9BRqLK5sS8Q~~_32-260x260-0-0.JPG

After that, I've had good luck with this for shine... not very greasy and seems to penetrate and stay a bit longer then your normal "shine".
g15812_ultblk.jpg



I simply waited for mine to get out of the bodyshop. Damn thing got side swiped by an 8 year old whose Grandmother let him drive. Then the witch switched seats with him and left the scene. Thank God for witnesses. $2600 in damage.

whats wrong with that?!?!?!? Show the pics!!!

$T2eC16d,!zQE9s3stYN9BRqLK5sS8Q~~_32-260x260-0-0.JPG


g15812_ultblk.jpg
 
Mounted a set of 19" Jag XJ8 wheels with Conti DWS tires....pictures to come later
 

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