What did you do to your LS today?

why remove/loosen the purge valve? does it make it any easier to remove the coil covers? I've never had a problem any of the many times I've pulled it off.
 
LS4me said:
If you have the window in the full up position you won't need to index the motor. At least I didn't. There is a YouTube video on how to do it on a Gen1 that mostly applies. At least the whole inner door panel comes out as a unit which makes it easy access the regulator.
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it doesn't matter where the motor stops, you still have to make sure that the new regulator is in the exact same position when you bolt the motor to it. but yes, the easiest way, is to roll the window all the way up or down before you take it all apart, then just make sure that the new regulator is the same when reassemble it. its just one of those things that such an easy fix that it will only get you once!
 
Ben's LS said:
Pulled a nice size nail out of the drivers rear tire today.
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Robot said:
I did the same with a construction screw the day before yesterday.
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Pulled this out of my sisters Trailblazer tire the other day lol

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Kept going....

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and going....

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and going...

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LOL

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1LoudLS said:
it doesn't matter where the motor stops, you still have to make sure that the new regulator is in the exact same position when you bolt the motor to it. but yes, the easiest way, is to roll the window all the way up or down before you take it all apart, then just make sure that the new regulator is the same when reassemble it. its just one of those things that such an easy fix that it will only get you once!
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I must have been lucky then. I just slapped a new regulator in my 2003 driver door, and everything worked perfectly. I was prepared to index it, but when I tested it the auto up/down and the partial up/down worked perfectly.
 
mine was damn close, the window would roll almost all the way down except for about a half an inch, but every time you tried to rool the window up it would get to the top then come back down on its own...
 
changed the coils and plugs on the drivers side. my knuckles are scrapped. drove around, no codes....now overheat again. lost engine power, was close to home, let it cool and added more motorcraft Gold. OBD says 1299 again, but I have no leaks. Will a radiator flush cure this at 76,700 mi?
 
medphys said:
....now overheat again. lost engine power, was close to home, let it cool and added more motorcraft Gold. OBD says 1299 again, but I have no leaks. Will a radiator flush cure this at 76,700 mi?
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Well, I'm sure it's not the same issue(s) as everyone else who's ever had this problem...
(Hint: you have leaks, you just don't recognize them.)
 
I put on some Flowmaster Super 40 Series Delta Flow Mufflers today. Sounds very aggressive now. Just for looks, I also put the factory oval tips back on them. gave it nice roar. Changed out the navigation sensor since mine always was heading southeast all the time. Replaced the air filter with a K&N. Changed out the center glove box since mine had the bottom broke out of it. Replaced the cup holder. Bought a few more items for it that I will address when it cools down some,(in Arizona).
 
Today I washed it, cleaned all the windows in and out and cleaned up under the hood. Yesterday, I used my phone to remapped then steering wheel radio controls and they finally work properly with the AR3
 
32K miles on the clock so it was time to change the oil. Mobil 1 High Mileage SL rated (much better for the camshaft lobes and bucket followers). I run about a 50/50 mixture of 5W-20 and 5w-30 weights - total of 6-3/4 quarts with the Napa Gold / Wix Gen I filter (yes its a tight fit, but the longer filter will fit on a Gen II with the oil cooler).
 
Deaconblue said:
32K miles on the clock so it was time to change the oil. Mobil 1 High Mileage SL rated (much better for the camshaft lobes and bucket followers). I run about a 50/50 mixture of 5W-20 and 5w-30 weights - total of 6-3/4 quarts with the Napa Gold / Wix Gen I filter (yes its a tight fit, but the longer filter will fit on a Gen II with the oil cooler).
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What effect does the heavier weight oil have on your vvti? (Devil's Advocate)
 
Robot said:
What effect does the heavier weight oil have on your vvti? (Devil's Advocate)
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I am more concerned with maintaining the HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150 ºC (ASTM D4683) value of at least 3.0
Mobil 1 5w-20 is only 2.7 so mixing in the 5w-30 with a 3.3 value should bring the witches brew up to a 3.0 level.

The VVTi functionality should not be effected greatly nor should the MPG - It is more for piece of mind concerning engine wear more than anything.
 
I changed out my worn drivers side upper control arm and lower ball joint, change the oil. Steering feels much better.

BTW here is my ball joint experience. I have an 02 Sport, build date 7/2001. Now by catalog says 14mm ball joint. Reading on the board there is conflicting stories saying if it is a sport it has the 16mm. Well I have the 14mm, so by build date in the catalog mine was correct. I ordered both moog ball joints in case. The 16mm one had finer threads and the 14mm one had course threads. Hope that helps someone.
 
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