What did you do to your LS today?

Found a complete LSE NOS rear grille for the car, only it was black, so a repaint was in order. Took the front grille apart and freshened it up as well

1.JPG


2.JPG


IMG_1192.JPG
 
Last edited:
Some small details that make huge differences. After the shiny new walnut shift knob the ashtray and heated seat control walnut trim items were showing dullness ageing / scratches and not as vibrant. Took them off, wet sanded with 600, shot 5 heavy coats of clear, let dry two days, wet sanded with soapy warm water using 1000 then 2000 grit, and then a good hand polish with compound. Perfect match now. Wish I had taken some before pics.

IMG_E1201.JPG


IMG_E1202.JPG
 
Some small details that make huge differences. After the shiny new walnut shift knob the ashtray and heated seat control walnut trim items were showing dullness ageing / scratches and not as vibrant. Took them off, wet sanded with 600, shot 5 heavy coats of clear, let dry two days, wet sanded with soapy warm water using 1000 then 2000 grit, and then a good hand polish with compound. Perfect match now. Wish I had taken some before pics.

View attachment 828571483

View attachment 828571484
How hard was it to change the gear selector ?
 
Popped the driver's door panel off to replace the regulator clips, only to discover the regulator itself has to be replaced. :mad:
 
Oldest son messed up front bumper. Fortunately, I had a silver '03 LSE front bumper in the garage rafters. Got it painted and the guy did a fantastic job of matching the tri-coat color. Also, went from 17" 8 spoke wheels with 235/50/17 to 18" 5 spoke with 245/45/18. Looking very sporty, I must say!!!

And, I also polished the drivers side headlight and used Meguiar's headlight coating/protectant on it. That came out nice too!!!

54729911_10216935319486596_2668106264927535104_n.jpg


54525534_10216943594053455_4745261751895851008_n.jpg
 
After 201,000 miles had to replace belt tensioner today...Replaced with OEM Ford part...Rock Auto....not bad at all
 
628C4A3D-3211-403C-B101-84C8FA8937DA.jpeg
DDE2F5B7-AAA5-4A26-949A-302CBB99D428.jpeg
DDE2F5B7-AAA5-4A26-949A-302CBB99D428.jpeg
1301A6AF-8413-4A1B-BBC9-B247FD71E420.jpeg

3F363A3F-850A-43D8-9AA1-80714353FD82.jpeg
43ECCF5B-408E-4144-A6E8-C658DC181B3B.jpeg
Replaced the EGR Valve ...This was a breeze ...also put my Electronic Parking Brake lever back in place with new screws ...No Check Engine Light ?...for now :)
43ECCF5B-408E-4144-A6E8-C658DC181B3B.jpeg


05E379E7-74B0-47CA-99B7-BABEE7389BC6.jpeg


41197143-26C0-4D79-8F1E-F4ACBFD40676.jpeg
 
Finally lowered on Eibach’s. Amazingly I was at 27” before upfront before springs and went down to 25”!!

F8C8DB8B-C29C-453F-A2AA-0F79EC4B83E4.jpeg


0B892B04-8073-45DD-AC9B-595950A9A6CC.jpeg


623BFB3E-60AD-4F09-B575-58DDF297ECBE.jpeg


6DFE377F-753B-4D5E-B1D2-00610959DBDF.jpeg


EFC2EAD3-E64C-462F-95C8-3A900AC2AF6A.jpeg
 
I drove it to the haircutters and to Hawkin's Speed Shop to pick up ordered items for the 5.0 Mustang.
 
:)Still those side skirts and rear valance to bring it all together.:)
 
Today I placed my last order for suspension parts with the exception of the front shocks and front control arms (Control arms looked good on the front maybe the last owner changed them) I am hoping Moog does not let me down like it has some in recent times. Also ordered another set of valve covers.
 
Changed out my Rear Shock absorbers ...boy good thing I did the Coil Spring went from a crack to cracked in half ...I got a great deal on eBay out of Keller, Texas OEM Shocks and Springs for $200 dollars ...Thanks eBay ...its really simple and straight forward to change the rear shocks ...21lbs. Per foot for top four nuts and 98 lbs. per foot for The bottom bolt ...they slip right out and in...don’t be intimidated with these absorbers it’s a really nice set up that Lincoln/ Jaguar designed ...I actually think the rears were easier than the fronts ...took me about an half-hour for both left and right rear Shock absorbers...the LS is riding like a dream again
CCC5C06D-084B-410F-9034-410009C54C5F.jpeg
FB38BFC7-0244-4148-8D03-D57146E4741A.jpeg
DF0266E4-2240-45A3-9B80-1F6E97B76519.jpeg
7E3DB944-2BEE-4D61-9451-6D301AC74B27.jpeg
63CC8DC2-7B1D-4240-9402-F082560B34C4.jpeg
2B666EDA-01CA-49E7-A142-5CCBDF988F45.jpeg
DF0266E4-2240-45A3-9B80-1F6E97B76519.jpeg
F5E69372-E31A-4B7E-8378-6F0422FC6CA7.jpeg
6DDEACF3-2FFD-4AC2-A405-D118B8B88839.jpeg
74D97159-7E95-4909-BD68-46628DD733C2.jpeg
63150DBD-5864-4B01-B3CE-821411DB9448.jpeg
F3C99A02-AFD2-467E-BB4E-176056B84491.jpeg
828CD72A-AE48-4217-9740-111B86829C38.jpeg
 
Just wanted to share my new to me 00 5speed. Added 02LSE kit, McLaren grill, and Japanese 2tone tails. So in love with this car! LSE license surround comin soon.

20190419_163725.jpg


20190419_163750.jpg
 
Today I dropped my car off to replace the rear suspension, front suspension (with exception of the front control arms and front shocks as they seem to be good for now),front wheel hubs, rear wheel bearings, valve cover gaskets and the fuel tank pressure sensor. Then after a alignment I think she will be almost good as new again!
 
IMG_20190526_130038286_HDR.jpg
IMG_20190526_130014486.jpg


Changed the SWC's. The also fixed the problem I was having with the radio skipping tracks when I pressed volume up and other mixed up signals.
 
01V6 211k miles. changed the rear stabilizer links, the old ones had the rubber covers completely gone exposing the ball joints. New ones tightened up the rear end. My daily driver for 17 years.
 
Today I placed my last order for suspension parts with the exception of the front shocks and front control arms (Control arms looked good on the front maybe the last owner changed them) I am hoping Moog does not let me down like it has some in recent times. Also ordered another set of valve covers.
How did Moog parts let you down? I just had some major difficulty with rear sway bar links. The nuts and bolts didn’t match broke.
 
Doing my coils and plugs on my 3.0 so its a perfect time to do some painting!

Steps:
1) remove valve covers
scrub with dish pad/wool pad and your desired solvent/degreaser
2) sand down with 400 grit.
give it a nice wipe down with alcohol and wipe till dry
3) spray using high heat engine paint (if in step 3 you sanded it to the bare metal be prepared to buy high-heat primer and try and keep the brands the same)
4) Let cure for a few hours or if possible 24 hours before you torque down the valve cover bolts.
Can be waxed after curing process to protect the paint from unwanted dust and engine grime.

62264699_614459675729144_598516453045436416_n.jpg


62438632_481452825944883_4042382120453144576_n.jpg


62385955_348883385825235_6663570519121461248_n.jpg
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top