What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
- Start date
Hi!
I replaced the rain sensor , now it's working
.
The stock one was not flashing and never worked, the light stay at 50% dimm.
The new sensor stay full bright at startup then few seconds later start to blinking . I test it with a cube of water .
Check the photos , looks like the donnor was a 02. xD
-- Mine just blink once then it stay like 50% brightness and never work
-- looking for differences I noticed that mine has not a transparent rubber on the optics sensor.
year 00
-- Donor sensor stay full bright for a few seconds then starts to flashing.
works at first attempt.
year 02
https://youtu.be/dki2GbSFpGk
I replaced the rain sensor , now it's working
.The stock one was not flashing and never worked, the light stay at 50% dimm.
The new sensor stay full bright at startup then few seconds later start to blinking . I test it with a cube of water .
Check the photos , looks like the donnor was a 02. xD
-- Mine just blink once then it stay like 50% brightness and never work
-- looking for differences I noticed that mine has not a transparent rubber on the optics sensor.
year 00
-- Donor sensor stay full bright for a few seconds then starts to flashing.
works at first attempt.
year 02
https://youtu.be/dki2GbSFpGk
Last edited:
The boot by it self can fail, even without oil. Its finger burning Hot down in there where the Rubber Boot and coil sit. I've tried just boot before on a few occasion and it resolved the problem for many miles on going. Coil was still ok.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't know why. I can click the initial post and the second post has images for me.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
nice repair, now if you haven't had to fix your traction control button yet for doing the same thing, go ahead and make the repair now BEFORE it breaks!
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
It's on the list, as well as the bolt that used to be behind the emblem on my rear license surround. I try to combine jobs, so I have a feeling "glue the button" will turn into "I accidentally disassembled the entire center console to add LEDs, fix some HVAC LEDs, figure out if I can LED-swap the shifter, try to install some USB charger ports, find the major vinyl-sounding creak points..."
At least I've been finishing projects recently.
At least I've been finishing projects recently.
RigsLS
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Consistently you feel the need to rain on my parades! You really should check to see if "negativism" is covered under the Platinum ObamaCare plan ... either that or have a Snickers already!
On two occasions I've had LS'es that have had misfire issues. I've resolved both on those. It's been discussed on here before in great detail, that they would need to be load tested at the dealership in order to correctly determine which cylinder said marginal coil is misfiring on. I know and understand that some of you stick to the story that a marginal coil will/would not store a code, however on two occasions, I've found said marginal coil by doing an on the fly WOT load test with an OBDII code reader hooked up. On those two separate occasions both have flashed a CEL at me and managed to read the associated P03XX error.
I clearly specified that it was clear as plain day to me which coils appeared newer, however one of those did in fact give a CEL, #5 to be exact. That was one of the few coils the dealership replaced not too long ago from what I can tell. Now keeping in mind I pulled below standard plugs out which measured to be over-gaped who's to say that wasn't contributing to the cause, including the possibility of the connector not fully seated.
#4 coil was not even tested, I knew of the ETC fail safe EM interference to PCM issue and opted to simply swap that coil out with a used known to be good coil I had kicking around. It resolved the issue immediately, so no further testing or guessing as you put it was needed.
I struggled with forfeiting my Visteon coils but knew all along, this LSE was in dire need of all fresh coils and plugs. Simple as that.
Having replaced them all, I'm just guessing, I'll save the once I did test and keep them as known-to-be-good back up coils.
Anything else you feel the need to piss on today?
R34SklnNsn
Active LVC Member
Temp jumped up and went back to normal. Usual suspect. Ordered oem one through body shop my brother works at $175.00. Also slight pic of my spring wheel project. One rear wheel has a crack that needs fixing and some curb damage on spokes.
R34SklnNsn
Active LVC Member
Got the degass bottle changed. Very easy. Had to bleed it twice. Seems alright now other than too much coolant in bottle now. Anybody know what temperature it should run at. It always run at halfway mark and my diagnosis tool says it fluctuates between 212 and 230 and the hand never moves.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That's too high. It should be in the 195 to 205 range much of the time.
V6 or V8? What year?
R34SklnNsn
Active LVC Member
2002 v8. I do know the hand got 3/4 way up. The fan kicked on high and the temp light come on. This was During the first bleeding process.
R34SklnNsn
Active LVC Member
So instead of just checking it in the driveway. I figured I would drive it and see. This is what I'm getting. It 61 degrees here. Pulled over to take pics and post. Probably worrying for nothing.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Did you leave the degas cap off till it warmed up fully?
203 is okay, but if you haven't changed the thermostat housing, you will be...
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
If you turn it off and back on again, it should "forget" about the misfire and give you all your cylinders. If you had no previous CEL/rough running warnings, then I wouldn't think you would completely "lose" a coil.
You should also have plenty of audible warning from failing tensioners. Even though tensioners will just snap, it isn't that easy for the chain to actually jump.
So if you suddenly had a problem, I would assume the car simply detected a strong misfire and cut fuel to that cylinder.
R34SklnNsn
Active LVC Member
Paper work says it was changed at 121,000 miles.
Along with t stat for some reason. It looked good on inside when I removed the cap to refill the coolant. I did put a new cap on it any way.
roncoinc
Well-Known LVC Member
I changed the cabin air filter.
can't find ANYTHING in the owners manual about it ?
searching here solved all problems including how to take out the plastic rivets over it
replaced the fasteners holding down the cover over the radiator.
from Lowes.
hillman part # H#881209
they are 7/16.
the two outboard ones i had to tap down on the center pin to seat because the plastic there is thicker.
got the info from an old thread after searching..
can't find ANYTHING in the owners manual about it ?
searching here solved all problems including how to take out the plastic rivets over it
replaced the fasteners holding down the cover over the radiator.
from Lowes.
hillman part # H#881209
they are 7/16.
the two outboard ones i had to tap down on the center pin to seat because the plastic there is thicker.
got the info from an old thread after searching..
RigsLS
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@R34SklnNsn,
:: Suggestion :: have a look in between the front shroud and all in between the cooler and radiator. Over the years, some of us have found the strangest of items down there, myself on my 01 V8 Sport when I took possession of it, found an old partial torn up plastic bag with lots of dried up dirt mucked in between the radiator and cooler, had to rinse it wet to loosen it up and gently poke and pull it out of there, gave the entire rad a rinse and cleaned as best I could. You may have some crap down there blocking the fins, worth a look, anything over 200 and it's getting to a zone where it shouldn't be. over 220 and you risk starting to pop hoses and old deteriorated plastic cooling system parts. Not good.
It's my experience that if one or more coils are completely not doing their jobs, on a restart one could still end up with a P0316, aka "Eng misfire detected on startup", this would happen within the first 1,000 revolutions, where one or more coils misfire to the point of outside it's specified tolarance by 2 or more percent.
Hmmmm?!?! ... sure about that Frank?
If a tensioner is split in the middle and no longer providing the upwards tension failing to take up the chain slack, you take that for a heavy WOT at highway speed and suddenly fully get off the peddle, that's it! ... that's all she wrote, the exhaust cam slows down dramatically and with not enough tension out of the secondary chain, she's jumped a tooth or two instantly before you could finish saying "Zues's butthole".
I thought/understood, that only during fail safe mode is/are the fuel injectors cut off. A misfiring coil would continue to cause raw unburned fuel dumped into the either or CATs.
:: Suggestion :: have a look in between the front shroud and all in between the cooler and radiator. Over the years, some of us have found the strangest of items down there, myself on my 01 V8 Sport when I took possession of it, found an old partial torn up plastic bag with lots of dried up dirt mucked in between the radiator and cooler, had to rinse it wet to loosen it up and gently poke and pull it out of there, gave the entire rad a rinse and cleaned as best I could. You may have some crap down there blocking the fins, worth a look, anything over 200 and it's getting to a zone where it shouldn't be. over 220 and you risk starting to pop hoses and old deteriorated plastic cooling system parts. Not good.
It's my experience that if one or more coils are completely not doing their jobs, on a restart one could still end up with a P0316, aka "Eng misfire detected on startup", this would happen within the first 1,000 revolutions, where one or more coils misfire to the point of outside it's specified tolarance by 2 or more percent.
Hmmmm?!?! ... sure about that Frank?
If a tensioner is split in the middle and no longer providing the upwards tension failing to take up the chain slack, you take that for a heavy WOT at highway speed and suddenly fully get off the peddle, that's it! ... that's all she wrote, the exhaust cam slows down dramatically and with not enough tension out of the secondary chain, she's jumped a tooth or two instantly before you could finish saying "Zues's butthole".
I thought/understood, that only during fail safe mode is/are the fuel injectors cut off. A misfiring coil would continue to cause raw unburned fuel dumped into the either or CATs.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I do believe that if the PCM correctly detects that a cylinder is continuously misfiring, it will stop injecting fuel in that cylinder. I don't know if it then tries it again every so often or if waits till restart. Of course, it seems to be rare for one of the coils to completely fail. Usually they range from misfiring every once in a while to misfiring most of the time. I think that as long as it is most of the time and not all of the time, fuel will still be injected.
RigsLS
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which I read and understood to at such a point it would go into fail safe limp mode and shut down said involved injector.
Agreed :: on marginal misfiring coil it would not shut down and thus continue to dump fuel into cylinder.
EDIT - - - - I guess here we may have a lean on words, not~firing vs. mis~firing.
Agreed :: on marginal misfiring coil it would not shut down and thus continue to dump fuel into cylinder.
EDIT - - - - I guess here we may have a lean on words, not~firing vs. mis~firing.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't think that cutting one of the cylinders due to misfires counts as one of the "failsafe" modes defined for the LS.
RigsLS
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Really, Huh!?!? Hmmm ... I'll have to take your word for it, thought I had read in the workshop manual under ignition trouble shooting that it did. Could have sworn a complete failure on coil spark warranted the PCM to initiate fail safe mode, thereby cutting fuel supply to involved cylinder.
Not to argue but I'll revisit with another read.
Thanks!
Not to argue but I'll revisit with another read.
Thanks!