What did you do to your LS today?

^ Well, yes I figured that's what they hoped to keep out.
and I bet you are wrong.



So as the evening progressed, I was out doing some WOT with it (still no tags) and it flashes a CEL at me.
I've been here before, the flashing warning lamp that there is a coil misfiring out of tolerance by two or more percent.

Grabbed the OBDII code reader and plugged it in, the P0305 was still present. Made note of it and cleared all.
Couple more WOTs around the neighborhood and it does it again, this time I have the OBDII with me and I see the code immediately.

Kind of odd as #5 clearly shows a brand new coil installed but that doesn't mean they didn't change the plugs or verify the connector seating or worse, oil in that well.

On a restart in the driveway I also get a P0316, misfire detected on start.


So looks like I'm going to have to forfeit my precious Visteon's after all. Not like I didn't know I should.

RE & RE all coils & plugs, simple as that, there is no way around it. They are all tired and uneven, best to get everything fresh in there.


It's repeated on this form over and over again, REPLACE ALL COILS w/ PLUGS, use OEM only.


No more ETC fail safe errors but I'm just chasing marginal coils around the block, pointless really.


... to be continued.
 
since misfires usually have to be pretty bad before they kick out a code, how much damage do you think the cats have already sustained?
 
Dunno, one thing at a time Loud1. I'll eventually get to cutting the exhaust off and will have a look at the screens then.



EDIT - - - - Just thinking back on this, when the ETC fail safe errors were happening for the PO, it wasn't driven much and whenever it did go into fail safe mode, it would have shut down the injector to whichever offending coil. It's my understanding this prevents raw fuel from being dumped into the CATs. Of course it's my hope that the slight other misfiring near/within tolerance would not be enough to have already ruined either CATs. That's not to say it couldn't. Right now I don't believe there are any symptoms of clogged CATs nor leaking wiper cowl seals. One step at a time, see what she gives. My time is also limited due to work. I'm also not in a hurry to get this thing on the road but it would be nice to have it all up to snuff plated with tags and ready to go. Not the best of winter cars but I'm tempted. As long as I can keep that LSE front bumper cover clear from the icy snowbanks.
 
I adjusted the viewing angle of the rear view mirror and the fvcker fell off. Oh well, at least it matches the auto wiper sensor right? b@stard. Well, I guess it will be worth a try to remount them both. They both took little chucks of glass with them. If they don't stay up then I will have to see about getting a new windshield. I bet I could get one of the neighbors kids to throw a big rock for $5.

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... had me laughing!!!

sorry to hear... havent seen that to much with the LS... Getting it back up there AND STAYING may be tough. GL

Glad I could help with your jollies today. LOL...... Here in FL the sun and heat gets to the glue. Every single car I have ever had, this has happened to. So I'm kinda used to it. I think I am going to go the $5 rock route. It isn't the original windshield. I wonder if I can get the Lincoln glass anymore. I will have to call around to find out.
 
Make the calls from payphones from different parts of the city, then the 5$ route, only then phone insurance from home/personal phone.

Never leave a track izzy! LOL ~ btw, why not check with glass installers and see if they have the magic glue and will do it for ya.



On a separate note: Plug #4 was an old original Motorcraft, #3-2-1 were upgraded NKG's but the G-Power Economy variety. * May not meet OE Standards * Gaping looks huge, I'll get to checking that soon as the new ones are going in. #4 Plug broke loose too easily compared to others.



:: Play-by-Play Lincoln LSE Coil & Plug replacement coverage.
 


Sorry just dumping some pics,
gotta head into work shortly and start the Pete for another weeks trip.

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Pains me to separate with these nice Visteon coils. Can't get them anymore. Paid 220$ for all 8 couple years back.



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Passenger side, #4 was bad causing ETC fail safe mode. Original coils and #4 had Motorcraft plug while others had NKG GP's, below OE standards and all where over gaped. No oil or water in any of the plug wells.

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Drivers side, all but #7 had fresh coils, all had NGK GP's and over gaped. #5 seemed to give a misfire code on WOT. No oil or water in any of the plug wells.



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Labeled all the removed coils, throwing #4 in the garbage, keeping others as known-good spares. Labeled #5 with a question mark.


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Little damp and humid to be doing this outside but the princess is taking up all I got for a garage.




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Passenger side completed, all cleaned up, fresh coils & Plugs.


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Drivers side completed, all cleaned up, fresh coils & Plugs.


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All done, coil covers will go back on next week, want to give them a little color first. Car not being driven.



All in all, the dealerships threw a Throttle body & position sensor at it and informed the PO he would need a new PCM next.
ETC failsafe mode, P2107 and P2110 was due to failure of coil #4 freaking out the nearby PCM, ran like crap, after replacement of coil #4 with a used coil, problem resided but still overall a terrible idle. You could hear and feel it as it idled, WOT threw another misfire code on another cylinder.

All new top of the line coils and plugs gaped correctly with some di-electric grease in the boots cleared everything up!

Idles perfectly, runs like a raped ape, Wide Open Throttles like the day it left the plant.

Very happy with the outcome, have more to do to this LSE but end of the day, money well spend. :rolleyes:

I'm sure the entire cooling system will need a few hundred soon enough and I'll be replacing some suspension parts as well.

Little touch up on the cosmetics here and there and it should give my other LS'es a run for their money. :cool:





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Labeled all the removed coils, throwing #4 in the garbage, keeping others as known-good spares. Labeled #5 with a question mark.

for whats its worth, any coils that were in the engine could be marginal, unless you actually test them, you are just guessing.
 
I received new rims and Eibach's today, I love new parts. Making a project build stack of boxes for the girl.
 
Glad I could help with your jollies today. LOL...... Here in FL the sun and heat gets to the glue. Every single car I have ever had, this has happened to. So I'm kinda used to it. I think I am going to go the $5 rock route. It isn't the original windshield. I wonder if I can get the Lincoln glass anymore. I will have to call around to find out.

Likely won't be able to get Lincoln glass. So, make sure your glass is replaced with a Pilkington windshield. Incidentally, I hear canned air, upside down so the liquid sprays out, will expand any existing cracks quickly.
 
Incidentally, I hear canned air, upside down so the liquid sprays out, will expand any existing cracks quickly.

Pour hot water on the outside first, or let the car bake in the sun for several hours. It's most likely the temperature shock that expands the crack. I've cut glass bottles by scoring a line around it, then alternating hot and cold water on it.
 
Glad I could help with your jollies today. LOL...... Here in FL the sun and heat gets to the glue. Every single car I have ever had, this has happened to. So I'm kinda used to it. I think I am going to go the $5 rock route. It isn't the original windshield. I wonder if I can get the Lincoln glass anymore. I will have to call around to find out.
Just get a new windshield for free. The installer will glue it back on.
 
Likely won't be able to get Lincoln glass. So, make sure your glass is replaced with a Pilkington windshield. Incidentally, I hear canned air, upside down so the liquid sprays out, will expand any existing cracks quickly.

Thanks for the heads up! :)

Pour hot water on the outside first, or let the car bake in the sun for several hours. It's most likely the temperature shock that expands the crack. I've cut glass bottles by scoring a line around it, then alternating hot and cold water on it.

There aren't any cracks in the glass. Just chips from the inside. I doubt that the hotwater trick would work.

Just get a new windshield for free. The installer will glue it back on.

There has to be a crack in the windshield, which there isn't, just chips from the mounts coming down on the inside. Also, the crack has to be larger/longer than a dollar bill. According to the curent and previous insurance carriers I have.

makes the most sense for a Florida resident.

I have had multiple windshields replaced for free. Gotta try to make my money back somewhere. LOL



I got the rearview mirror back up on the glass. But the auto wiper sensor, when I put it back up, doesn't line up correctly with the spot on the windsheild. We will see when I get home and throw some water on there.
 
There aren't any cracks in the glass. Just chips from the inside. I doubt that the hotwater trick would work.

I'm pretty sure with glass cracks and chips are the same thing. It's a very rigid material that doesn't like change. Taking out chunks gives it a flex point
 
Sometimes its not even the Coils. Its the rubber boots only.


even then, if the boot failed (usually to oil exposure) and the cylinder was misfiring (which would be a lot of the boot was deteriorated enough to let spark through) it could/would damage the spark plug, which could/would damage the coil...
 
I'm pretty sure with glass cracks and chips are the same thing. It's a very rigid material that doesn't like change. Taking out chunks gives it a flex point

pretty much

any damage to the glass compromises the safety and structure of the rest of the windshield, if there is any glass missing, the windshield has been weakened.
 
No more plastic. The seemingly good mounts on the vent I got considerably cheap on eBay ended crumbling in my hand. I took a #12-24 x 3/4" nut coupler and cut it in half on an angle. I then ground down the worst of the two mounts, mounted the cut nut to the switch assembly, laid down a flat layer of JB Quick (mainly to seal out the threads), and dropped the assembly into the face plate. I let it sit for a couple hours, then did the same to the other side, leaving the surviving alignment pin. Then I gave them both liberal amounts of JB after the initial coats cured. Both the nuts and face plate were given indents and rough surfaces to help the JB adhere and give some shear resistance... theoretically, anyway.

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No more plastic. The seemingly good mounts on the vent I got considerably cheap on eBay ended crumbling in my hand. I took a #12-24 x 3/4" nut coupler and cut it in half on an angle. I then ground down the worst of the two mounts, mounted the cut nut to the switch assembly, laid down a flat layer of JB Quick (mainly to seal out the threads), and dropped the assembly into the face plate. I let it sit for a couple hours, then did the same to the other side, leaving the surviving alignment pin. Then I gave them both liberal amounts of JB after the initial coats cured. Both the nuts and face plate were given indents and rough surfaces to help the JB adhere and give some shear resistance... theoretically, anyway.

View attachment 828474667

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