The speaker really is Fuking my battery!! What sizes are stock?

I know someone that bought those Ford Sterio Removal Tools, I thought it was so funny...I made my set for my Explorer with a coat hanger before I even knew that there was a special tool for it..lol
 
Alright so I went out, and now the car is dead - I took out the 20amp from under the hood for the AMP - gonna see how the affects everything when the car finally is charged. I checked fuses at #2 & #4 - both were fine, but #2 the prongs were a little dark.

I just cant for the life of me figure out what is causing enough of a drain to kill a brand new 850CCA battery!?!?

Im sorry Im not as knowledgeable as you guys when it comes to how to find :q:q:q:q thats wrong, and what to do to take certain things apart and such so I am trying to avoid causing myself more harm then good by just fiddling with this. Im not a car guy, dont know a whole ton about electronics and what not so sorry for asking some questions you guys may find stupid, Im just trying to fix this without breaking anything else during the run.
 
Typical lead acid car battery had apx 70 amp storage capacity. The stock JBL amp will pull around 3 amps when in idle mode. All it would take is 20 hours before the battery would be too weak to start the car. I have never seen a Marks amp do it but I have seen several other OEM amps fail in the stuck on position.
 
Typical lead acid car battery had apx 70 amp storage capacity. The stock JBL amp will pull around 3 amps when in idle mode. All it would take is 20 hours before the battery would be too weak to start the car. I have never seen a Marks amp do it but I have seen several other OEM amps fail in the stuck on position.


Well, it drains in about that amount of time - but I started it today after work at around 7, and now, 4.5 hours later the interior lights came on, wouldnt start, and 2 min later the entire car was dead.

To me it seems to be draining extremely fast.
 
You need to measure the parasitic drain and then diagnose it from there by either removing fuses one by one or other means. Once you know the circuit, you can start disconnecting components from it to further narrow it down. Hopefully you'll find it doing that or you'll be chasing wires next ;)
Google 'how to find parasitic draw on battery' to see how to do it, remember to unplug under hood bulbs and interior ones if anythings open etc...
 
That RC of 150 minutes meens nothing to me. Need to know how many amps per hour ...... dont matter, nevermind.

Also check fuses 20 and 28 as they are back ups. Not sure but #41 may cause it too but I think the alarm wont work if thats bad. Does the anti-theft light flash when off?
 
You need to measure the parasitic drain and then diagnose it from there by either removing fuses one by one or other means. Once you know the circuit, you can start disconnecting components from it to further narrow it down. Hopefully you'll find it doing that or you'll be chasing wires next ;)
Google 'how to find parasitic draw on battery' to see how to do it, remember to unplug under hood bulbs and interior ones if anythings open etc...

Thanks alot man!
 
BTW, do you know what 850 CCA stands for?

Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather.This measurement is not particularly important in Deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly 'known' battery measurement.
 
I have a Gen 1, can't help with fuse locations on a Gen II but a sticking seat button makes more sense than a speaker and the mechanic that said that about the speaker killing the battery should be hit dead square in the nuts with ripped camels hammer.
 
my muffler bearing belt snapped and flew and broke my halogen fluid tank the other day. now the car wont shift into second.....::rolleyes:
 
Pretty sure I have an owners manual from my 97 Evergreen LSC sitting around here somewhere. Wanna buy it?
 

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