subs and amp

slickemhoundd said:
i honestly have not a clue what those wires are (tannish ones) the are unfamiliar to be from previous times.I was going to run a dist block but since the 8g was (carelessly) installed i figured i would take advantage of free wire. I have always been against caps (beleive in high amp alt) but as always thats prolly gonna change and i will run one.Due to the lack of being able to find higher amp alts for the mark. Its crazy how expensive they are too (caps)
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A cap and an altenator have nothing to do with each other. A cap is like a battery that has an uber high discharge rate. High/low output alt will not affect the stereos output only how long it can do it before its taxed the battery dry. With the power wire you ran you wont have a noticable power drop for up to 400 amps worth of draw, additionally if you did a gel cell then that would help but only a little as it can discharge faster then a lead acid battery. BUT if you have a lead acid batter that has over 800CCA then it dont matter anyway.

Caps were popular before class D amps came out. The reason why is a 1000 watt amp could pull 200+ amps for a split second for deep bass transients and the cap would be able to dump that current for about a full second so the amp wouldnt clip and you would get a more solid kick.
With class D amps 1000 watts will only draw around 90 amps at peaks and your power setup can easily handle that.
 
ive really been lookin into the gt-28 from boston.... im a lil confused tho... on the specs ive been findin it runs 1000wrms buuuut ive been finding reviews and people are sayin they are runnin 1350wrms from the gt-28

But yes one way or another itll be class d... ive also caught word the pdx series have to be mounted horizontally, im sure its guff butt gotta ask
 
Get the Rockford or the JL or the Alpine PDX. The Boston amps are good but those three are better.
You will not need a cap for any of those amps with that power wire you ran.
 
 
How do you wire ssubs to an ohm? i was under the impression the more ohms the better the sound but regardless... howya do it? And before i settle you think im safe or would be satisfied with that box? or just get the sub and have one built? seems nice but never heard it sooo dont know. id just like to (when completed) turn it on and be overwhelmed and feel my organs rattle
 
slickemhoundd said:
How do you wire ssubs to an ohm? i was under the impression the more ohms the better the sound but regardless... howya do it? And before i settle you think im safe or would be satisfied with that box? or just get the sub and have one built? seems nice but never heard it sooo dont know. id just like to (when completed) turn it on and be overwhelmed and feel my organs rattle
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www.the12volt.com

this site will teach you a lot about boxes and woofer wiring, and a bunch more crap its a very nice site to have if you do this kinda stuff


http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

this will take you right to the ohm wiring guide. just select how many subs and what ohms they are and if they are single voice coil or dual voice coil
 
slickemhoundd said:
How do you wire ssubs to an ohm? i was under the impression the more ohms the better the sound but regardless... howya do it? And before i settle you think im safe or would be satisfied with that box? or just get the sub and have one built? seems nice but never heard it sooo dont know. id just like to (when completed) turn it on and be overwhelmed and feel my organs rattle
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slick, if it's possible for you, I would go to a stereo shop close by or even in another city and listen to that sub before you buy it. If you do get it, I would stick with the box that was made for it because it's tuned especially for that sub, although another box could be built and tuned differently. You're wanting to have something in the trunk that really slams on the inside and I just don't think this one sub is going to give you what you're looking for. Yes, it's going to make some noise and you'll feel it, no doubt. As for SQ, it is a good choice but for bone shaking bass, it's hard to say if that one is going to do it. I really can't say because I haven't heard it either but I would make it a point to hear it before I bought it. It might put out more than I'm expecting it to. I did see the port after you mentioned it. I guess I could have read more lol but I had to zoom it and then I noticed it on the back corner. I have heard 1 Kicker 12" L5 before in the trunk of a smaller car and I didn't think it was going to do very much but when he turned it on, I was amazed that one 12" could do that much but this was a little thin metal toyota (older) camry or corolla. I'm not saying to go with Kicker L5 or L7, I'm just saying that I didn't imagine that only one sub could do what that one was doing. He had a JL 1000/1 hooked to it also. His put just as much pressure into the Toyota cab as my 3 10's do in the Mark. The JBL might sound like a monster back there with the right amp on it and I also would go with the Rockford or JL. It's just my opinion to listen to the sub before putting that kind of money into it if it's possible for you. It would be hard to tell in a sound room what it's going to be like in the car but if they want to make the sale, it shouldn't be a problem for them to set that box and sub off into your trunk while wired to another system in a car, just so you can see what it's going to do for you. It would give you an idea anyway.

Maybe Laser has done this before to make a sale or to help someone decide. I have done it just for the fun of it. It's been done for me at audio shops. Some shops think they're too good to do this but it only takes about 10 minutes to set it up. Lay the box and sub into your trunk, run an extended speaker wire from a sub amp already installed in another car over to your trunk just so you can hear the bass you'll get from it. Just an idea!
 
Yup, many times I have dropped a box into a car running off our sound board just so someone could hear it.

He will be very happy with his sub decision though, the Boston just kicks ass. Also that box really slams. Since its a 2 ohm setup it will be easy on the amp. Also higher impedance used to be a good thing for higher freequency drivers but the tech has changed so much now a days you dont need a higher impeadence cause the coils and spider have much more controll.

These will be the best bang for the buck:
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-Audio-HD750-...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item53dd8dc1f4


Both these Rockfords will put out much more then what they are rated at.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item4148ec0edf



http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item5ad4073280
 
slick, go with option #1 for the amp. It has R.I.P S. technology. You know what that means? (Rest In Peace Slick):D

Seriously, that's the amp I'd go with It's good for 1.5 to 4 ohms. Frequency response that is unreal 6 to 30,000Hz

You might want to get a distribution block for the 0 gauge wire and go ahead and take out the 8 you have ran. The amp can only take up to 4 gauge wire which is plenty big enough. D-blocks are fairly cheap and easy to mount and if you ever have any future amp additions (don't say you won't) you'll have the power back there and ready. I would do this now while your in this position. Get one with 0 gauge input and maybe 4 - 4 gauge outputs. One of the outputs can always be used with 8 gauge too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XB-PDB...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d26ac7777

I'm buying one of these myself this week. I too have 2 separate power wires ran and I regret doing this. When I'm done with this buffing on the top I just painted, I'm going to get the 0/G and run it back to the same identical D-block I have listed above in the link. I'll picture it when I get it in place lol.

Laser, what's the deal with the JL amp saying this: Remote bass level input (HD-RLC required and sold separately)
 
the v2s are not as good as the first series they were made by different people

http://cgi.ebay.com/Used-JL-Audio-1...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item1e58d3f032

yea its used but i dont think anyone will argue the quality of this amp and its less expensive than the newer one and youll have more power if you ever need it. to me its always better to have a slightly bigger amp and turn it down a little then it is to have a lower power amped crank full open
 
nolimit94VIII said:
Laser, what's the deal with the JL amp saying this: Remote bass level input (HD-RLC required and sold separately)
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In order to remotly controll the bass EQ you now have to buy the remote seperatly for $25. Even Rockford dosent include the remots any more and theirs are about $30. I wish I had the ones I gave away for free over the years. Guys amp would come with the standard one and he would upgrade to the quasi version and tell me to throw away the old remote. I must of had 10 of them at one point. Wish I would have sold them. :lol:
Trippen Out said:
the v2s are not as good as the first series they were made by different people

http://cgi.ebay.com/Used-JL-Audio-1...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item1e58d3f032

yea its used but i dont think anyone will argue the quality of this amp and its less expensive than the newer one and youll have more power if you ever need it. to me its always better to have a slightly bigger amp and turn it down a little then it is to have a lower power amped crank full open
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I havent heard the new series yet so couldnt say. If the components are the same just with a reshaped board then it wouldnt matter but you are right. There is no denying how great the old slash series JL amps are. I have never once had one come back for repair. I had also seen some awful installs yet the amp didnt make noise and still slammed even with the ground wire clamped between a seat bracket bolt and the carpet. :confused: :eek:

They are bullet proof and short of a McIntosh or Pioneer ODR I dont think you can get a cleaner amp.

Now that amp you pickes will hit $500 by the end of the auction but is still worth it.

Now if you dont want to spend $500 then just get the older series Rockford I posted. Its larger then the newer series but it has better mosfets and it also is fan cooled where the new one isnt. Even though its rated at 750 watts into 2 ohms I bet the birth certificate says 950ish at 2 ohms and about 1300 at 1 ohm. BTW, around 50 hz your 2 ohm sub will dip down to 1 ohm so the Rockford will give the most power out of all of them.
Now I do know of a great deal on the super big ass Rockford but I wouldnt get it unless down the road you plan on adding another sub. 2500 watts is just too much power to waste but makes for nice bragging rights! :lol:
 
This will take the 0 gauge wire and just have incrediable power! Its under $400 shipped to your door. But really is too much for one sub (just turn the gain way down and have more dynamic head room then the JL could ever give) and would be perfect for two of those subs. I will vibrate your car apart and cause permenent hearing dammage if you cranked it up with two subs. :lol:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rock...21QQitemZ300360455713QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo
 
LaserSVT said:
around 50 hz your 2 ohm sub will dip down to 1 ohm so the Rockford will give the most power out of all of them.
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educate me please. would this be true in all instances or just that boston speaker. are there any other impedence drops at lower freq like 20mhz does this affect something wired up if im bridge down to 1ohm with 2 subs would it drop down to .5 ohms ? im running 4ohm dvc parallel/parallel
 
I found 1 boston dealer around me, its not to far and ima callem and find out if they have one on display er not. i kno im goin out on a limb by buying without hearing (never done before) but with everything ive heard about this sub it seems like i cant go wrong with it. I guess ill see about being able to listenin to it. And that 20001bd seems like hell of a deal being the cheapest i found it new was 725. And itd save me in the future of possibilty of adding a second sub. and id have all the power id need and then some (on reserve). i was gonna hack at the rear deck but it already has 2 ports in it so im just gonna pull the insulation out from underneath the deck carpet and see what happens. prolly minimal difference but we'll see. Also im gonna see about making the seat foldable. the trunk will be well insulated as well


Also i stumbled upon this too.... thoughts? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...ston+Acoustics+SPG555+Oval+13-+Subwoofer.html
Compared to
http://www.abt.com/product/29627/Boston-Acoustics-SPG555PS.html


Does this mean its a 1 cube box? Q-Tune™ Setting: 34Hz @ 1.0
 
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Ok, the box it comes in is bigger, length wise because it's ported differently but tuned the same as the $50.00 box.

  • Height: 13-1/4"
  • Width: 30-1/8"
  • Top Depth: 12-3/4"
  • Bottom Depth: 17-3/4"

$50.00 box is vented and the box above is ported but cubic feet on both are likely to be the same.
  • Mounting depth: 12"
  • Cutout diameter: 13" (Cutout hole is oval for the SPG555 subwoofer)
  • Box volume: 2.15 cubic feet
  • Total port volume: 0.27 cubic feet
  • Dimensions: 15-3/4"D x 23-3/4"W x 15-3/4"H
  • 30 Day return policy
I like vented boxes better myself but for $50.00, not too sure I'd just get the sub and buy that box. I would buy that box also since it does have a 30 day return policy and see if it slams harder than the box it comes in. As much as I like vented boxes, I don't think it's going to in this case. Plus, you would be losing the fill in space you were after from side to side in the trunk if you went with the vented box.
 
I thought you had found the Boston sub in the factory ported box for like $600 already. The Bostons box is thicker and stronger HDF material so it will sound better due to less harmonics. But for a $400 difference (If you can only get the $850 one) then I would go with the cheaper box.
 
LaserSVT said:
I thought you had found the Boston sub in the factory ported box for like $600 already. The Bostons box is thicker and stronger HDF material so it will sound better due to less harmonics. But for a $400 difference (If you can only get the $850 one) then I would go with the cheaper box.
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$400 difference, hell yeah! Buy 2 subs and 2 $50 boxes and that big a$$ RF amp and you might just be able to bust out the rear window.
 
Lucky he doesnt have a second gen cause it would break the neon.
But the sub is $400 and $50 for that box or $500 for the sub in the factory box. The factory box will sound better and hit harder though.
 
Yeah, I would go with the factory box also. They designed that box especially for that sub. I got confused there for a minute and thought he could save $400 buy not having that box sent with it. That's why I said I'd get 2 of them and 2 of the $50 boxes. I didn't realize that subs size until just a little bit ago. 13", it should do some damage.
 
I only had that 850 page up cause i did a quick search for comparison of size. Found a lil info/overview of the BA box. And im thinkin of snaggin that
20001bd too

Boston Acoustics SPG555PS Ported enclosure with one SPG555 subwoofer
Designed specifically for the SPG555 subwoofer, the SPG555PS delivers SPG performance with the convenience of a premade enclosure. The enclosure is built from 3/4" MDF and utilizes a double wall front baffle that adds rigidity to the baffle. Furthermore, the
more...
SPG555 is counter sunk into the top baffle minimizing the space needed in front of the enclosure. Wrapped in high quality automotive OEM grade carpet, the appearance complements the SPG555 perfectly.The SPG555PS enclosure is a design that offers some attributes of each recommended ported design delivering a lower tuning than the high output enclosure and better efficiency then the sound quality enclosure resulting in stunning performance regardless of amplifier power or program. Like all GTuned enclosures, SPG555PS have a final impedance, extracting maximum power from GT Amplifiers.
 
Aw man that is just gonna be sick with that amp!! I am now seriously jealous!
Make sure for about 2-3 hours you break the sub in at lower to med volumes before really kicking it up. The spider needs to flex some to get the stifness out and the coil has to burn off some of its coating. If you start to pound the hell out of it right away you could burn the crap off the coil too fast and it will destort the bass cause globs of it get stuck in the former. So for the first few hours dont throw more then 500 watts at it.
Also whatever your decks output is, set the amp to 2/3 of that. For instance if you have a 4 volt out deck then set the amps gain for a 3 volt input (apx) and that will help protect you a little from over driving the sub.
 
My shop is an authorized boston dealer and i personally had the vented spg box in my car. Its an amazing sub. You will be vary impressed by it i was for sure. I never thought one sub at 1000 watts could have so much output. But at 500 for the sub and box is about 30 dollars off what my shop pays cost on it. So i say go for it.
 
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