With metal, rock and country you want a sealed box, for rap and hippity hoppity you want a ported box. With the Rockford amp it wont matter much (or JL) because you can get a remote punch EQ that will give the subs more thump during that kind of music and can be turned down for the other styles.
subs and amp
- Thread starter slickemhoundd
- Start date
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
+1 for sealed box and rock/techno/alternative & +1 for slot ported with rap. I listen to all of it except techno and even though mine is slot ported, Pink Floyd, Alice In Chains ect., is knocking pretty damn good. "Too Late" by Def Leppard, my god that song is beating hard.
Laser, do you remember the box that came out in the late 80's by Kicker that was about a foot tall with the front angled and it was about 4 foot long? It had 2 8" pyle's 2 horn tweeters and 2 10" passive radiators in it. I had one of those up until 91 and that damn thing really sounded off but it wasn't a trunk box. Mine was in the back seat of another Cutlass I had. The amp I had hooked to it was a Sherwood 240. That was back in the day. Those passive radiators made the 8's sound like 12's. I sold that box loaded for $250 but I wished I still had it. I only had to replace the radiators with new ones for $17.00 because I blew the other ones out from the foam surround getting old.
Laser, do you remember the box that came out in the late 80's by Kicker that was about a foot tall with the front angled and it was about 4 foot long? It had 2 8" pyle's 2 horn tweeters and 2 10" passive radiators in it. I had one of those up until 91 and that damn thing really sounded off but it wasn't a trunk box. Mine was in the back seat of another Cutlass I had. The amp I had hooked to it was a Sherwood 240. That was back in the day. Those passive radiators made the 8's sound like 12's. I sold that box loaded for $250 but I wished I still had it. I only had to replace the radiators with new ones for $17.00 because I blew the other ones out from the foam surround getting old.
slickemhoundd
Dedicated LVC Member
here is my compilation of final options
1- alpine type x 12" - $258
1- spg555- $350
1- JBL W12GTi MkII- $298
1- JBL W15GTi-MkII- $368
3- 10" g5's- $200 each (a stretch)
3- 10" Pioneer TS-W2504SPL $149 each
3- 12" JL Audio 12W3v3-2 $148 each
1- alpine type x 12" - $258
1- spg555- $350
1- JBL W12GTi MkII- $298
1- JBL W15GTi-MkII- $368
3- 10" g5's- $200 each (a stretch)
3- 10" Pioneer TS-W2504SPL $149 each
3- 12" JL Audio 12W3v3-2 $148 each
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
For the music you listen to, (1- spg555- $350) with an amp that will give it what it needs. If you could somehow have that thing boxed in like it should be and worked into the rear deck dead center, that would be nice. Our back windows would be good for bass reflection, I would think. I wouldn't do the 3 - 12's because 12's really aren't for rock music, especially in a car. The 3 - 10's is where I would go if you wanted the looks of a system but before you go there, it is a rare occasion that you will open the trunk and just watch the speakers beat. Mine gets a lot of stares if I go to Wal*Mart and open the trunk to put something in there, especially if it's night time. They see the blue glowing and here they come, asking questions. This happens maybe once a month, if that. I spent so much time with it installing everything, that I don't even pay any attention to it. Let us know what you decide on and oh, that JL amp went for $365 last night. If I had been watching it, I would have sniper bidded that bad boy.
slickemhoundd
Dedicated LVC Member
i think im sold... not that i heard it person but from reviews and suggestion, i think this is it http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/spg555ps.aspx theres always later down the road for a change. now amp desicion. i kno these subs are power hungry,
so it has to be super perfectly powered
so it has to be super perfectly powered
Oh! Their big ported box seup. Thats a slamin setup there, you will love the hell out of it and I will be jealous. :lol:
With that you eaither want the Alpine or the JL amp. The JL amp would be better IMHO but the Alpine would be close.
For that sub I would use one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item45ee4fb7d1
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-PDX-...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item4a9b21c126
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/Jl-Audio-1000-1...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item1c0d2c54ed
With that you eaither want the Alpine or the JL amp. The JL amp would be better IMHO but the Alpine would be close.
For that sub I would use one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGAT...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item45ee4fb7d1
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-PDX-...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item4a9b21c126
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/Jl-Audio-1000-1...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item1c0d2c54ed
STANKNLINCOLN
LVC Member
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_22&products_id=44
195.00 for 1200 watts.I had both amps and subs from elemental.Good stuff.Alpine pdx1 and jl 1000 if you got the money.Both are top notch amps.
195.00 for 1200 watts.I had both amps and subs from elemental.Good stuff.Alpine pdx1 and jl 1000 if you got the money.Both are top notch amps.
Trippen Out
Dedicated LVC Member
http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/49/new-fi-car-audio-bl-subwoofer-released
www.ficaraudio.com please if your going to spend that muh money on a sub. make it worth while. im sorry but that boston speaker can not compair to the sound quality or spl levels of these speakers.the top link shows prices of the newest line the BL. they have other versions as well do some research check prices. then choose. i would be willing to bet my mark that you will love the fi car audio sub more then that boston sub
www.ficaraudio.com please if your going to spend that muh money on a sub. make it worth while. im sorry but that boston speaker can not compair to the sound quality or spl levels of these speakers.the top link shows prices of the newest line the BL. they have other versions as well do some research check prices. then choose. i would be willing to bet my mark that you will love the fi car audio sub more then that boston sub
I would be willing to bet that a single Boston spg555 will be louder then a BTL 15 (SPL sub) yet cleaner then a Q 12 from them. Yes, the FI looks like a quality product and has decient specs but its just decient. The Fs is nice and fairly low but the system Q is too low. They will sound muddy on fast drum music. Even bass drums will be more of a loud thud then a sharp impact. No doubt the Boston will sound better then FIs Q series (their SQ sub).
It is an expensive sub but its the best sub out there short of a top end Focal but still louder then any Focal could do. I had a hard time selling them cause they were as much as a W7 or T1 and everyone was familiar with Rockford and JL but when I did sell one the customer was always blown away by them. If I was doing a deck upgrade on another customers car that I had already installed a couple W6 12's in and also just finished a spg555 install I would show them and they always say "Wow, wish I would have gotten that instead." 100% of the time.
IDK the OP was willing to spend that kind of coin. The spg555 would have been the only sub I would have reccomended.
I bet after he installs it he will post "Its almost too loud but damn it sounds good."
Another plus, the spg555 will never wear out. You burn it up and its only 6 screwes to replace the coil. You wear out the cone or surround and it bolts right in, no glue or mess.
Trippen Out
Dedicated LVC Member
I would be willing to bet that a single Boston spg555 will be louder then a BTL 15 (SPL sub) yet cleaner then a Q 12 from them. Yes, the FI looks like a quality product and has decient specs but its just decient. The Fs is nice and fairly low but the system Q is too low. They will sound muddy on fast drum music. Even bass drums will be more of a loud thud then a sharp impact. No doubt the Boston will sound better then FIs Q series (their SQ sub).
It is an expensive sub but its the best sub out there short of a top end Focal but still louder then any Focal could do. I had a hard time selling them cause they were as much as a W7 or T1 and everyone was familiar with Rockford and JL but when I did sell one the customer was always blown away by them. If I was doing a deck upgrade on another customers car that I had already installed a couple W6 12's in and also just finished a spg555 install I would show them and they always say "Wow, wish I would have gotten that instead." 100% of the time.
IDK the OP was willing to spend that kind of coin. The spg555 would have been the only sub I would have reccomended.
I bet after he installs it he will post "Its almost too loud but damn it sounds good."
Another plus, the spg555 will never wear out. You burn it up and its only 6 screwes to replace the coil. You wear out the cone or surround and it bolts right in, no glue or mess.
thats a pretty bold statement. as for the fi car audio sounding muddy i dont know about that. i would think it would come down to the box and the power used.
either way i hope he does like loud becuase thats what hes going to get. as for an amp im not sure what the op wants to spend either. but sundown makes great amps. orion has a classic amp if ya can find one thats great. the 2500d but that would be way to much power for that 1 sub.
Gawd I miss the old red Orion HCCA amps from back in the day.
And muddy wasnt exactly what I was saying. What I mean is they should sound like a $200 sub.
Again, I am sure they are nice subs but when you have listened to hundreds of different subs and spent countless hours tuning them you start to pick up on different subs nuances. I will forever be a Boston fan after owning about 3 different series from every major brand and listened to a couple thousand setups. And I am sayin I sat there and installed and tuned and tweaked those couple thousand sub setups.
Things I have learned:
Boston subs will sound the most real and give the best impact.
Infinity Emit ribbon tweeters will make the hair on your neck stand up.
Focal mids will make the singer sound like they are on your lap.
JL slash series will never dissapoint. Never!
If you have the money buy a McIntosh amp.
Pioneer decks have the warmest and fullest sound.
And muddy wasnt exactly what I was saying. What I mean is they should sound like a $200 sub.
Again, I am sure they are nice subs but when you have listened to hundreds of different subs and spent countless hours tuning them you start to pick up on different subs nuances. I will forever be a Boston fan after owning about 3 different series from every major brand and listened to a couple thousand setups. And I am sayin I sat there and installed and tuned and tweaked those couple thousand sub setups.
Things I have learned:
Boston subs will sound the most real and give the best impact.
Infinity Emit ribbon tweeters will make the hair on your neck stand up.
Focal mids will make the singer sound like they are on your lap.
JL slash series will never dissapoint. Never!
If you have the money buy a McIntosh amp.
Pioneer decks have the warmest and fullest sound.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Laser, remember these?
Yup. I never heard a NT in a car though, only in a sound board. 
But I mean the OLD HCCA's
And man I remember buying the Rockford Power 1000 when it came out. First 1000w amp of its kind, cost me three pay checks (entire check) to buy one when I was 15. :lol: I had my car and was just waiting on a drivers license.
I used that amp to drive a pair of old school KLH 8" 3-way home speakers and two Bazooka 8" subs in my Mustangs hatch.... man things have changed. :lol: That was almost 20 years ago.... damn im getting old.
Theres some things that were really good back then. Thats why I have a 16 year old Xtant amp in my car, it was something special. I really want to upgrade to a JL 5 channel to take advantage of my surround sound processor. My Xtant is a hybrid 3 channel and not quite compatable. As soon as I find a buyer for it I will sell it and get the JL. Its a shame cause it has a completly new capacitor bank and cooling upgrade.
But I mean the OLD HCCA's
And man I remember buying the Rockford Power 1000 when it came out. First 1000w amp of its kind, cost me three pay checks (entire check) to buy one when I was 15. :lol: I had my car and was just waiting on a drivers license.
I used that amp to drive a pair of old school KLH 8" 3-way home speakers and two Bazooka 8" subs in my Mustangs hatch.... man things have changed. :lol: That was almost 20 years ago.... damn im getting old.
Theres some things that were really good back then. Thats why I have a 16 year old Xtant amp in my car, it was something special. I really want to upgrade to a JL 5 channel to take advantage of my surround sound processor. My Xtant is a hybrid 3 channel and not quite compatable. As soon as I find a buyer for it I will sell it and get the JL. Its a shame cause it has a completly new capacitor bank and cooling upgrade.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Found some more rare ones. I wished I would have kept all the amps I have owned. All I have now is 5 old Kicker amps, well 6 really because I'm letting my dad use the 4 channel 354xi in his truck. I have the little 352xi, 1252xi, 654xi, 356xi and the big 2252xi. The Coustic 560 is what I had for a while and also had a Coustic 380 and both of them would put out some major power. I was young and needed money so I sold them. I found the red beauty's
and the 44" long US Amp
and the 44" long US Amp
:lol: I had that big ass 4-channel US Amps amp before! That was a rare beast indeed! It was so long it couldnt fit between the wheel wells in my 91 Caprice trunk.
Ive never had a tube amp in the car but always wanted a Butler Tube Driver or a TRU Tube. They were killer amps, installed a few and love how warm they are. Not verry efficient and prone to breaking and overheating but when they work they sound beautiful.
Sure would love that HCCA 2100 Digital you posted. Now that was a nice amp.
Never seen a gold Orion! Thats a new one on me, nice.
My dream system in my Mark of components I could get would be a Pioneer AVIC-Z3 hooked to a McIntosh MC 4000 and a pair of Focal 27KX subs, Dynaudio 3" soft dome mids in the factory tweeter location, Infinity Kappa EMIT Ribbon tweeter laying sideways behind the factory grill next to the mid and some Boston Acoustics Z6 midbass speakers in the stock locations.
It would be my masterpiece, the sound would bring a tear to anyones eye with the right song.
This is not the tweeter but close. I cant find a picture of the Kappa Ribbon that they made but I know a place that has a new set in the box I am gonna buy anyway. Gotta see if he will still let me have them for $200
The car version is just the rectangle piece in a plastic case.
Ive never had a tube amp in the car but always wanted a Butler Tube Driver or a TRU Tube. They were killer amps, installed a few and love how warm they are. Not verry efficient and prone to breaking and overheating but when they work they sound beautiful.
Sure would love that HCCA 2100 Digital you posted. Now that was a nice amp.
Never seen a gold Orion! Thats a new one on me, nice.
My dream system in my Mark of components I could get would be a Pioneer AVIC-Z3 hooked to a McIntosh MC 4000 and a pair of Focal 27KX subs, Dynaudio 3" soft dome mids in the factory tweeter location, Infinity Kappa EMIT Ribbon tweeter laying sideways behind the factory grill next to the mid and some Boston Acoustics Z6 midbass speakers in the stock locations.
It would be my masterpiece, the sound would bring a tear to anyones eye with the right song.
This is not the tweeter but close. I cant find a picture of the Kappa Ribbon that they made but I know a place that has a new set in the box I am gonna buy anyway. Gotta see if he will still let me have them for $200
The car version is just the rectangle piece in a plastic case.
slickemhoundd
Dedicated LVC Member
one last thing.. ive ALWAYS wanted a solo x... now i know id need to run maaaajor power to it (which i cant afford at this point) but how is it for sq? i know those whom havem gettem for spl but figured id ask, since its been a long time fantasy
slickemhoundd
Dedicated LVC Member
here is current progress of the stereo. ive got 0g and 8g ( 8g already in car ) power wire ran. the 0g for sub (obviously) and 8g for a lil 4 channel. Ive got the menace super bullet titanium tweeters and menace tri's. And im looovin the way the wiring ended up. just another step closer!! And when lookin in the pics its the red wire (uh dir)
You do nice clean work!
Its funny, I see mpre and more cars wired with dual power cables these days. Used to be we would take that 0 gauge wire and run it to a distribution block and then feed the amps.
That wire is thick enough to support 5000+ watts.
What are the light tan or off white wires? Are they the speaker wires? I always try to run them on the opposite side of the car.
A few years back Mostor made this flat speaker wire that ... I forget what was so special about the materials but damn if it didnt make high freequencies sound better. Ill try and figure out what kind it was.
Its a damn shame the rear speakers are such a PITA to replace. I have new Boston SX's to go back there but was too lazy to remove the seat and pannels to get to them. I guess as soon as my Xtant is sold I will get back there and replace them for the new five channel.
BTW, you also want to run an additional 0 awg ground wire from the battery to the frame and adding a couple 4 awg wires from the engine block to the frame would also help. I was noticing a minor high pitch RPM dependant whine when I muted my system after pounding it for a long time as my Xtant pulls 100 amps like nothing. The charging system was getting bottlenecked at the ground locations and after adding two more grounds it cleaned it up and now I dont get that minor (yet bothersome) dome light flicker if I tap the brakes at night with the door opening when the car is at idle.
Its funny, I see mpre and more cars wired with dual power cables these days. Used to be we would take that 0 gauge wire and run it to a distribution block and then feed the amps.
That wire is thick enough to support 5000+ watts.
What are the light tan or off white wires? Are they the speaker wires? I always try to run them on the opposite side of the car.
A few years back Mostor made this flat speaker wire that ... I forget what was so special about the materials but damn if it didnt make high freequencies sound better. Ill try and figure out what kind it was.
Its a damn shame the rear speakers are such a PITA to replace. I have new Boston SX's to go back there but was too lazy to remove the seat and pannels to get to them. I guess as soon as my Xtant is sold I will get back there and replace them for the new five channel.
BTW, you also want to run an additional 0 awg ground wire from the battery to the frame and adding a couple 4 awg wires from the engine block to the frame would also help. I was noticing a minor high pitch RPM dependant whine when I muted my system after pounding it for a long time as my Xtant pulls 100 amps like nothing. The charging system was getting bottlenecked at the ground locations and after adding two more grounds it cleaned it up and now I dont get that minor (yet bothersome) dome light flicker if I tap the brakes at night with the door opening when the car is at idle.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Your wire running is looking good slick. What did you finally decide to go with for sub(s)?
Laser, the Gen 1 rear speakers couldn't be more easier to swap out because the grille to them just pops right out, giving you access to both speakers behind it. I'm sure he just has his seat out because he was running the 0 gauge wire. I agree about the distribution block running off the 0 gauge and then disperse from there.
Slick, are you going to get a cap and put it in too? They do make a little difference, especially with the music you mainly listen to. It gives the amp it's full power potential but the myth of it stopping headlights from dimming is not true. If you have HID's, you shouldn't see any dimming but halogens will dim, if you have something pulling some power.
Laser, the Gen 1 rear speakers couldn't be more easier to swap out because the grille to them just pops right out, giving you access to both speakers behind it. I'm sure he just has his seat out because he was running the 0 gauge wire. I agree about the distribution block running off the 0 gauge and then disperse from there.
Slick, are you going to get a cap and put it in too? They do make a little difference, especially with the music you mainly listen to. It gives the amp it's full power potential but the myth of it stopping headlights from dimming is not true. If you have HID's, you shouldn't see any dimming but halogens will dim, if you have something pulling some power.
slickemhoundd
Dedicated LVC Member
i honestly have not a clue what those wires are (tannish ones) the are unfamiliar to be from previous times.I was going to run a dist block but since the 8g was (carelessly) installed i figured i would take advantage of free wire. I have always been against caps (beleive in high amp alt) but as always thats prolly gonna change and i will run one.Due to the lack of being able to find higher amp alts for the mark. Its crazy how expensive they are too (caps)
slickemhoundd
Dedicated LVC Member
Ah yes and the sub.... im goin with 1 http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/spg555ps.aspx
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
I think that one will sound you off perfectly. With it being sealed and only one, don't expect anything deep but with the right power on it, I'm sure it will put out deep enough for you and you will know you have bass in the trunk.
I'm still thinking of taking the parts car rear seat and cutting the back side out and removing the foam but keeping the leather intact until I have everything situated on the back side. I would like to be able to turn my box facing forward and then cut a slot out in the leather and fold it back so that it looks like it was made that way. Then push the box up into the hole because I never ride anyone back there and if I don't like it, I could always turn it around and put my 94 rear seat back in. I'll have to get bored to do this. I have taken my box out before and put it in the trunk of a Mitsubishi Mirage and faced it forward with the rear seats folded down and it really sounded good that way. Good pressure coming from it but not the deep rumble type, it was a good hard hitting type bass.
I'm still thinking of taking the parts car rear seat and cutting the back side out and removing the foam but keeping the leather intact until I have everything situated on the back side. I would like to be able to turn my box facing forward and then cut a slot out in the leather and fold it back so that it looks like it was made that way. Then push the box up into the hole because I never ride anyone back there and if I don't like it, I could always turn it around and put my 94 rear seat back in. I'll have to get bored to do this. I have taken my box out before and put it in the trunk of a Mitsubishi Mirage and faced it forward with the rear seats folded down and it really sounded good that way. Good pressure coming from it but not the deep rumble type, it was a good hard hitting type bass.
slickemhoundd
Dedicated LVC Member
oh no no no lol its ported, check the pic and look to the bottom right, its a triangle like port. im tearin into her again today and prolly gonna do some hackin to make the pressure in the cabin greater. also goin to experiment to see if fold down seats are gonna happen or not