subs and amp

Those were pretty good if it was the more satin colored brushed area, very under rated and excellent output stages. But we were talking the way old Rockfords. No processors or EQs, just a solid brick of an amp. Nobody makes em like that any more. :(
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Reminds me of the old RF Series 1 amps. They were the best kept secrets out. I installed one in a reg cab Ranger that had no room anywhere for an amp to power the door speakers. It was solid sub box behind the seat and processors and amps under the seats. So I took their 15w X2 Series one amp from 1994 and removed the case and mounted it in the passenger side visor. It powered two 6.5" mid bass, four 5" mids and a pair of Rockford Power series Titanium tweeters. Thing was very loud, used to give me a headache. :lol:
 
chicken said:
ahhhhh that makes me happy, running a mtx thunder 2300x and a 4300x and a 2 ch crossover from the same era
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Thats the same two amps I was running in my old Caprice cop car. Both amps were built for a MTX demo car and they were very tweaked to over perform. I had the 2300 driving two 15" MTX 5000 series (when the 5000 was top dog) and the 4300 bridged running two OZ audio 6.5" and two OZ audio 5.25" and two Infinity Kappa EMIT ribbons with a Quart Comp 3 way x-over.
One of my favorite sounding systems. Had two EET 30 band EQs, an ESP-2 and an Epicenter. Sound was just insaine. I miss that system. :(
 
These are cheater amps and yes they are very under rated. We had them in one of our show cars and it knocked the piss outa 4 Punch XLC 18s in a Chevy Berretta Z26. I am not much on Berettas but this was one of the best I have ever seen espicially inside.
 
Meh, I stand by my reccomendation. Its yours so get what makes you happy.

So I found my Xtants problem. A 1.5" x 1.5" piece of steel heat sink fell off a MOSFET and it landed across a couple resistors and blew them. Its not $5 in parts but since I dont have the right equipment to locate exactly which resistors are bad I cant fix it myself. A shop will charge $70-$100 to fix it cause its about two hours labor to locate and replace the bad parts. It still fires up and starts its cooling system but when it sends its test signal out it gets a fault and goes into protect mode. :(

So I am going to sell it for $50 if anyone wants it. It really is a sub $100 repair and then you would have the best amp Xtant ever made that was $1300 new and is still one of the cleanest amps ever made. :)
 
Well I just ordered my new amp today. A JL 500/5 for $380 shipped brand new! :D Even came with a custom lighter. :lol: :wrench
 
So did that camera come with an instruction manual?
 
I never mentioned them as I have never heard of them. The G5 should be good for700ish WRMS.

Just cause you have 2200 watts does not meen you have to use all of them. :lol:
 
LaserSVT said:
I never mentioned them as I have never heard of them. The G5 should be good for700ish WRMS.

Just cause you have 2200 watts does not meen you have to use all of them. :lol:
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True, turn the gain down to maybe a 1/4 or less and then just use the sub volume output on the head unit to set as needed.

I think my gain is a little above 1/4 but not 1/2 and my sub volume level is on 5 and sometimes 7 but 9 or higher is too much. Sub amp is set on 70Hz and on the deck, I have the sub level set at 80Hz.
 
You shouldnt "stack" x-overs. It causes 4th order harmonics and cancellation of some freequencies. Id imagine the amp has a 12db crossover and the deck a 6db. I would switch one off and then switch to the other and see which sounds better. If ones a Linkiwitz and the other is a Butterworth then you will have some low frequency distortion if both are running together.
 
LaserSVT said:
You shouldnt "stack" x-overs. It causes 4th order harmonics and cancellation of some freequencies. Id imagine the amp has a 12db crossover and the deck a 6db. I would switch one off and then switch to the other and see which sounds better. If ones a Linkiwitz and the other is a Butterworth then you will have some low frequency distortion if both are running together.
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The only one I can switch off would be on the deck. The amp is either 110 or 70 and with the deck x-over off, it sounds like :q:q:q:q. I mean a huge difference.
 
Sounds like the amp has a 12db crappy x-over, prolly a Linkewitz-Reily design. Decks usually have the same setup and running two of then it may be causing the signal to be back in phase. Only time that ever worked for me was running a 2XS with the MTX Thunder 4300 amps.

But a non-defeatable x-pver is just really dumb. Wonder what they were thinking.
 
LaserSVT said:
Sounds like the amp has a 12db crappy x-over, prolly a Linkewitz-Reily design. Decks usually have the same setup and running two of then it may be causing the signal to be back in phase. Only time that ever worked for me was running a 2XS with the MTX Thunder 4300 amps.

But a non-defeatable x-pver is just really dumb. Wonder what they were thinking.
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The amp will deliver in excess of 850 watts into a four ohm bridged mono load at 14.4V. The 2252xi has built-in 18-dB/octave active electronic crossover and KICKEQ bass/treble boost circuits, mixed mono capability, high and low level inputs, and is stable to 2 ohms stereo.

Maybe this explains something, idk.

As for the deck itself, here are some specs on it's settings.

System Q-EX Sound Control: Six EQ curves are preset into memory, allowing you to recall the best preset EQ curve for different types of music: Rock, Pops, Easy, Top 40, Jazz, and Natural. In addition, you may store your own settings under the "User Memory" EQ curve. Each preset has its own bass center frequency, bass level, bass Q factor, bass extension, middle center frequency, middle level, middle Q factor, treble center frequency, and treble level settings. You may adjust the bass center frequency (40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 120 or 150Hz), bass level (-8 to +8), bass Q factor (1.00, 1.25, 1.50 or 2.00), bass extension (On or Off), middle center frequency (0.5, 1.0, 1.5 or 2.0kHz), middle level (-8 to +8), middle Q factor (1.0 or 2.0), treble center frequency (10.0, 12.5, 15.0 or 17.5kHz), and treble level (-8 to +8). The System Q EX can be turned off in the menu, still allowing you to adjust the bass, middle and treble levels only.

I use "User Memory" and set my own.
 
slickemhoundd said:
nolimit, when are you gonna post a video if your setup!?
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What do you want a video of slick? All I have is a Cyber-Shot camera to use which takes good video but 2 minutes is around 55 MB. I learned that the other night when I was taking a video of the trouble codes and trying to upload them. Taking forever with the DSL I have.

All I could show would be the speakers thumping and an inside shot of the mirror slamming itself into the down position and other things shaking around and the CD text scrolling across the screen. I highly doubt the sound quality would be any good with that camera.
 
nolimit94VIII said:
The amp will deliver in excess of 850 watts into a four ohm bridged mono load at 14.4V. The 2252xi has built-in 18-dB/octave active electronic crossover and KICKEQ bass/treble boost circuits, mixed mono capability, high and low level inputs, and is stable to 2 ohms stereo.

Maybe this explains something, idk.

As for the deck itself, here are some specs on it's settings.

System Q-EX Sound Control: Six EQ curves are preset into memory, allowing you to recall the best preset EQ curve for different types of music: Rock, Pops, Easy, Top 40, Jazz, and Natural. In addition, you may store your own settings under the "User Memory" EQ curve. Each preset has its own bass center frequency, bass level, bass Q factor, bass extension, middle center frequency, middle level, middle Q factor, treble center frequency, and treble level settings. You may adjust the bass center frequency (40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 120 or 150Hz), bass level (-8 to +8), bass Q factor (1.00, 1.25, 1.50 or 2.00), bass extension (On or Off), middle center frequency (0.5, 1.0, 1.5 or 2.0kHz), middle level (-8 to +8), middle Q factor (1.0 or 2.0), treble center frequency (10.0, 12.5, 15.0 or 17.5kHz), and treble level (-8 to +8). The System Q EX can be turned off in the menu, still allowing you to adjust the bass, middle and treble levels only.

I use "User Memory" and set my own.
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Sounds like a Pioneer deck.
Pioneer has a wonderfull x-over. Too bad the amps internal one cant be bypassed. Dont the crossovers switches have three positions? Should be HP/LP/OFF or HP/LP/PASS of HP/LP/FP


So here is my new toy. :D
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I like that JL and I know you will too.

I'll check the 1252xi that I have here in my room instead of going to my car and looking because the 2252xi is the same thing but double the power. It was the biggest Impulse amp made.
 
Ok, here is the 1252xi and the 356xi that I bought back because the friend that bought it needed Christmas money. He never installed it lol

The LH/HP/OFF is there if that's what you were speaking of. So you're saying for me to turn it off and let the eXcelon head unit take care of the crossover work, I'll try it.

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Yes, let the Keenwood do the x-over controll. If it sounds weird then change the freequency till it sounds the best. Mabe 100hz, might be 120 or could be 70. IDK you have to experement. You can also reverse the phase and it may have more impact or it may play deeper. Again, its trial and error.
 
Yeah, I can reverse the phase but I'll try that when I get the car back out again. Been raining all day today so it's not leaving the garage. Really, I'm trying to leave it there until rockauto gets my new 02's here. That should be Tuesday because they sent yesterday, Priority Mail. I would do it in the garage but my dads bedroom is just on the other side of the garage wall and he hates bass. I will give that a try though and see what happens. Never really thought about it until you mentioned it.
 
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