98lincmk7lsc
Dedicated LVC Member
While you're on a roll...what size wrench would we use to grip the flats of the strut bar?![]()
"Universal-sixteenth's" wrench....
Also known as:
crescent wrench.![]()
Although, you may want to make sure it's a metric one.
While you're on a roll...what size wrench would we use to grip the flats of the strut bar?![]()
crescent wrench.![]()
Ok Fast ?. When you replace these do you need to bring for alignment after? I see the nut on the front part that can change length and pull push or pull wheel front to back.
Ok Fast ?. When you replace these do you need to bring for alignment after? I see the nut on the front part that can change length and push or pull wheel front to back.
Are you talking about the nut on the back of the front SR? I was wondering the same thing? If I don't move the back nut on the front of the SR and add The "home made" spacer, it will add .120" back farther! Will that matter?? Should I move that nut back .120" also?
Yes that's what i'm talking about. I thought I read there was a factory set up procedure for setting it?
You don't remember where do you?
I don't really want to move that nut if it doesn't matter! But I'm thinking if I don't it will put the LCA .120" back farther and then that will probably mess with my cam adjuster to wouldn't it? Or am I looking at this all wrong?
Will the alignment take care of the extra .120" back farther?
That nut adjusts caster.
While caster being out of spec won't cause wear issues with the tires, it WILL throw the camber and toe out with no readjustment.
Just get it put back together, and take it to a good alignment shop. I can't stand these 40$ alignment places because I've had multiple discount shops set the Camber and toe then leave the Caster alone because its not a wear issue.
End result is your front wheels not being centered in the wheel openings.
When I did my LCA's and SRB's I tried to get everything as close as possible to where it was before I took it apart. But it didn't work :lol: It was so far outta whack that I had to turn the wheel 45 degrees to the right to keep the car going straight. And the caster was out on the p/s and the alignment shop didn't catch it and I had to take it back to them to get it redone. Personally, I would never just drive a vehicle after working on or replacing any suspension component that directly affects alignment. But that's just me.
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this crack? i dunno, it doesn't really look like a big deal to me..
Not a big deal until they go to align it and can't get it to do what it's meant to do because the bolt just spins inside the washer....