SRB's, Spacer's and LCA's

Spree

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Thank's to:

DLF
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=77865

slowmarkviii
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=74935

and

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=46645
For the torque specs.

For there detailed thread's on the forward SRB spacer and torque specs. This is what I came up with. Going to work tomorrow (on my day off) to play with the CNC and hopefully the spacer's come home with me. Going to make this out of a 1.5" solid bar so there is no welding.

SRB's are here and look great!
1" drill bit to re-drill stock forward SRB washer to accept new spacer.
Had to buy a bigger torque wrench (needed it anyway).
Lower Control Arm's will be here middle of next week.
Deep well high impact socket set up to 32MM will be here middle of next week (love buying tool's).

I can't seem to find a thread on replacing any of these on LVC or Google so maybe this will be it!
Anything else I need to know before attempting this?

Shut air ride off.
Remove air spring (just so I don't damage it).
Remove caliper (hang out of the way).
Remove wheel speed sensor?
Remove lower ball joint.
Mark cam bolt so I can put it back to the original location as close as possible.
Remove cam bolt.
Remove LCA to SRB nut.
Remove LCA to frame nut.
Don't have to remove tie rod end (is this true)? Swing spindle out of the way.
Replace all the bad crap and re-assemble.
Maybe not in this order, did I miss anything?

Strut Rod Bushing Spacer Specs (1).jpg


Strut Rod Bushing (2).jpg


Torque Wrench.jpg
 

Spree

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No one was at work tonight, so I thought I would take advantage of it and make (Forward Strut Rod Bushing Spacer's).

With the help of everyone here on LVC, and the CNC machine's at work, this is what I came up with....

(I followed the spec's above!)

1st pic....Raw Bar! (made to fit collet's, so no set up time was needed and I wouldn't mess with the operator's that run this machine).
2nd pic....(after running 1st half of 1st side), didn't take any pic's of second side but you get the idea!
3rd pic....(finished spacer's).
4th pic....(painted and rust proofed, like that will help)!

Each half took 3 minutes, (3 min + 3 min = 6 minutes....1 side).
Drivers side and Passenger side were 12 minutes total.

It took me a little while to get the 1st set and program done, (maybe 2.5 hours for solid bar).
Had to rough it in (cut to length, turn down OD to fit collet in machine and drill pilot hole for boring bar).

If I used tube (which I will do next time) it would only take the 12 minutes to run the part's + welding time (like DLF did). Maybe 30 minutes for both sides using this machine?

If I had to do it again I would do it just like DLF's thread, (cut body then weld on washer, turn off weld's ), and call it done! (Too much work for a 1 pc washer and body). Then again slowmarkviii didn't have to enlarge forward stock washer, (which I still have to do)! hhmmm

I did it this way because I wanted a 1pc body and washer with no welding involved!

Next to come....Tear it all apart and replace LCA's, SRB's and spacers!! (lot's of pic's)

Mazak SRB (1).jpg


Mazak SRB (2).jpg


Mazak SRB (3).jpg


Mazak SRB (4).jpg
 

Spree

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hell yeah. excellent work.

Thank you sir!
But this is the least of my worries.... I can't find a thread on replacing any of these in detail and don't have a book to go by, sooo... I'm gonna have to wing it :). If everything goes right it should be a fricking nightmare!
 

Markviiiedrea

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Awesome! Nice work! So when can you make me a set? :)

Doing strut rods are a straight forward job, depending on you rust level I would go out there now and soak the strut rod bolts in kroyal or PB. That's what allways gave me the most trouble.
 

2002WRXSTi

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No one was at work tonight, so I thought I would take advantage of it and make (Forward Strut Rod Bushing Spacer's).

With the help of everyone here on LVC, and the CNC machine's at work, this is what I came up with....

(I followed the spec's above!)

1st pic....Raw Bar! (made to fit collet's, so no set up time was needed and I wouldn't mess with the operator's that run this machine).
2nd pic....(after running 1st half of 1st side), didn't take any pic's of second side but you get the idea!
3rd pic....(finished spacer's).
4th pic....(painted and rust proofed, like that will help)!

Each half took 3 minutes, (3 min + 3 min = 6 minutes....1 side).
Drivers side and Passenger side were 12 minutes total.

It took me a little while to get the 1st set and program done, (maybe 2.5 hours for solid bar).
Had to rough it in (cut to length, turn down OD to fit collet in machine and drill pilot hole for boring bar).

If I used tube (which I will do next time) it would only take the 12 minutes to run the part's + welding time (like DLF did). Maybe 30 minutes for both sides using this machine?

If I had to do it again I would do it just like DLF's thread, (cut body then weld on washer, turn off weld's ), and call it done! (Too much work for a 1 pc washer and body). Then again slowmarkviii didn't have to enlarge forward stock washer, (which I still have to do)! hhmmm

I did it this way because I wanted a 1pc body and washer with no welding involved!

Next to come....Tear it all apart and replace LCA's, SRB's and spacers!! (lot's of pic's)

What kind of turning center were you using?
 

97 Octane

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^^ I like this presentation. Its like a an exploded line diagram come to life. Thanks Marcus.
 

Spree

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For what it's worth, here are some pics of the proper positions of everything:
Thanx, those pics will help

What kind of turning center were you using?
Mazak Quick Turn 20 with Mazatrol. Comes in handy when making something with multiple dimensions.

Awesome! Nice work! So when can you make me a set? :)

Doing strut rods are a straight forward job, depending on you rust level I would go out there now and soak the strut rod bolts in kroyal or PB. That's what allways gave me the most trouble.
I work for a tubing company, solid bar is hard to come by there, I've been looking around for tube that is 1.500 od x .700 id give or take a little, but haven't came up with anything yet, but I'm keeping my eye's open.
 

2002WRXSTi

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Mazak Quick Turn 20 with Mazatrol. Comes in handy when making something with multiple dimensions.
Ah I used Mazak Turning and Milling machines in the shop that I got my first Mark VIII at. Bought it off of the engineer that got me a job there who was giving me rides to work when my S10 crapped out.

That was in '04 and have had Mark's since then :cool:
 

Spree

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Lower Control Arm's came in today. Deep well socket's arrived at the same time. If weather permit's this weekend won't come soon enough!
Everything has been soaking in PB Blaster since last weekend. Hope everything goes nice and easy! Yeah right!

Lower Control Arm.jpg
 

Spree

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Subbing, as my forward SRBs are needing replacement soon, too!! :)

Stay tuned zack! As soon as this work is all done I'm gonna make more spacer's and supply everyone a set that has helped with this thread! Hopefully this thread will be a step by step pictorial as I couldn't fine what I needed on the internet. It will take me a little longer to fix it taking pic's and note's along my way but WTH, as it's not my DD so I can afford to take my time. Everyone above has good input but pulling everything apart will be a 1st for me and maybe you too.
As soon as the rain end's :( I'm going to take inventory of ALL nut and bolt size's up front and post result's. If everything goes my way :) it goes up on jack stand's Friday.
 

izackary

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Thanks! As I mentioned on LOD, I'm hoping that my hardware has been well preserved by the generous supply of motor oil thanks to my leaky oil pan/gasket. :D
 

chicken

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if your planning it for this weekend, id run out to the car tonight and check to see if you have the right size for the the nut on the front of the strut rod. its big 30 something i think. also you might not be able to get the lower shock bolt out of the arm so be prepared to cut the bolt and sleeve, no point risking damaging the shock since your replacing the lower arm
 

Spree

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if your planning it for this weekend, id run out to the car tonight and check to see if you have the right size for the the nut on the front of the strut rod. its big 30 something i think. also you might not be able to get the lower shock bolt out of the arm so be prepared to cut the bolt and sleeve, no point risking damaging the shock since your replacing the lower arm

Thank's chicken! I did UCA's last summer and had air spring off then. I also just got a high impact deep well socket set in the mail today up to 32MM.

I also just did inventory of all nut's and bolt's for the front end and size's are as follow's.

Strut Rod front two nuts...............30MM
Strut Rod back nut......................24MM
Stabilizer bar end link X 2..............17MM
Lower Control Arm ball joint...........24MM
Air Spring lower shock mount X 2....21MM
Tie Rod End ball joint....................18MM
Caliper Slider X 2.........................12MM
Caliper mount X 2........................15MM
Brake Line..................................10MM
Cam Bolt X 2...............................21MM
Upper Control Arm to Spindle Arm...18MM
Wheel Speed Sensor.....................10MM

If anything is wrong please feel free to correct this or add something I have missed.

As I was looking around why couldn't I put a jack under rotor (to keep everything from falling), remove cam bolt, remove front SR nut, remove back SR nut, remove air spring or release air, knock out ball joint to LCA and drop everything out, replace and start putting it back together? Will this work? Doe's anyone see anything wrong with this?
 

chris2523

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its only a few extra bolts to remove the whole spindle entirely, but i guess that could work.

i find its usually less hassle to just dissemble it all. personally, i don't find it too difficult.
 

izackary

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While you're on a roll...what size wrench would we use to grip the flats of the strut bar? :D
 

Spree

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Gave these a second coat of paint tonight, as they are a tight fit, with paint. I can't imagine power coat unless you compensate for that. I will probably have to work on the slip joint just to get them to go together smoothly.

I am planning to installing them.....short side in short bushing and long side in long bushing.....but pic's to come.

DLF didn't include this in his thread. (not sure if it matters but wish he did).

Mazak SRB (4).jpg
 

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