SRB's, Spacer's and LCA's

If it is not coming out now it wont if you burn the bushing out. You NEED to get that thing glowing and zip it off with an impact.
 
I marked the threads and nut, it's moving but not much...maybe 1/10 of a turn at a time, with the hydraulic jack method. Been working on it for a good 8 hours and only managed to turn it about 1/4 inch....I'm beat!
 
I feel your pain...good luck....i guess a plumbers pipe wrench would not work? it would flex less than the box wrench
 
If you could get a hold of some new nuts (hold the laughs) I would whizzer wheel the old ones off. Like split the nut on one side then you can spin it off.

Depending on if you have enough room to do this of course? I have a nut splitter that works great but not big enough for those suckers.
 
The nut is starting to get a little roundish from the socket, quit using it. Don't have a box end that big. Hate to use heat I'll probably burn the car down. Moved it about 1/2" so far with the jack and open end wrench method. This thing is going to be hard to get off all the way to the end, ready to call it a weekend!
On a side note...the crescent wrench flew off the SR flat and broke the bottom off my air ride sensor, that's enough to pi$$ a person off! :( I'll never find one of those around here anywhere!

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94m5 said:
Holy rust batman.


Heat.


Work smarter, not harder.
Click to expand...

LOL! no kidding...switched back to the deep well, ratchet and floor jack. And looky what finally came off...holy crap!
Pleas o please tell me that 19 year old 200k ball joint is going to come out easier then that! I'll worry about that sensor later.

Fix (18).jpg
 
Take the nut off the bottom ball joint (or bolt out for the Upper) and smack the Sleeve of the arm with a 5lb hammer (where the ball joint goes thru the Upright) for the Upper you can stick a Chisel in the groove and thatll help spread it open just a tad.

I dont normally deal with that much rust, if I were you I'd go get a can of PB Blaster and drown every joint on the car
 
If it still refuses to pop out, like one of mine refused to, it still needs more beating, just ensure you have the leverage for a good swing. Mine finally came out (at Jeremi's) after being hammered on from below.
 
Sapperfire said:
Take the nut off the bottom ball joint (or bolt out for the Upper) and smack the Sleeve of the arm with a 5lb hammer (where the ball joint goes thru the Upright) for the Upper you can stick a Chisel in the groove and thatll help spread it open just a tad.

I dont normally deal with that much rust, if I were you I'd go get a can of PB Blaster and drown every joint on the car
Click to expand...

I never thought about smacking the sleeve, I've been smacking down on the thread and so far no luck, I'll give the sleeve a smack next weekend, I guess it'll have to sit a little longer.
I've already went through almost a full can of PB blaster, ball joint is soaking.
Right now front and back nut's are off SR (finally :)), lower air spring bolt is out, Camber bolt is loose. As soon as I get the lower ball joint out hopefully everything fall's on the ground!

SR seems pretty loose at least it doesn't feel like it's frozen to the spacers.

So I've read to grind off front of old spacer, and bushing and spacer should separate and come right out? Is this the way to remove them?

Hope I don't break anything else!
 
You don't have to gring the spacer off
Just pry it off with a screwdriver
As for lower ball joint pickle fork is your friend.
 
slowmkviii said:
You don't have to gring the spacer off
Just pry it off with a screwdriver
As for lower ball joint pickle fork is your friend.
Click to expand...

I think one of my friend's at work has a fork. I'm going to see if he'll bring it in this week just so I'll have that option also.

When you say "pry if off" do you mean that front factory washer that I have to enlarge the hole in for the new spacer's?
 
i just did a coil conversion...I got a sensor for the cost of s/h
 
All I can say is wow, man that car has been giving you a fit. I didn't have any trouble at all getting my front end torn down. But my car is basically rust free. So that helps. Good luck to you. Hope you git 'er done soon. :)
 
I used a ball joint fork...beating...beating...cussing, and more beating!.....holy sht! It finally fell apart!
Left the caliper on and left tie rod end attached, jack stand supporting rotor, two jack stand's supporting car. I can see right now this isn't going back together easy!

The rear (front SRB is causing me problems getting off the SR but it turn's so....it's coming off (and doesn't look good). The rear (rear SRB looks pretty good) and slid right off.

Forward SRB's are still attached to frame and don't come off by prying them! (going to have to wait till this weekend) then getting out the grinder!.
I measured the front spacer end cap at 1.125" and rear spacer end cap at 1.375" so if I would have made them out of tube at 1.250" end cap's...they would have worked perfectly and been easier to make. :) (pic's to come when I get these out).

Going to use a wire brush attached to my drill press to clean up SR threads (the thread's look real good) not sure why that 30mm nut caused me so many problem's?

The only difference I can tell between the old LCA's and the new one's is the new one's have a bigger base where the ball joint is (I was allway's told the bigger the better) :) Everything else look's exactly the same!

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98lincmk7lsc said:
This works pretty well, and is adjustable for larger ball joints such as the lowers...

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
Click to expand...

Just seen this...that does look like a nice tool for the box! I may have to invest in this.

Had a minute to grind off end cap on front, forward SRB spacer. Man, that thing was messed up! (that was never coming out without grinding)! Took some pic's of new and old front STB's and spacer's. There's a big difference between the two.
Are the new bushing's different from the old one's or are they suppose to look the same?
I'm drilling front stock washer to 1" for new spacer and painting everything! (pic's to come).

Next on the list after that....put it back together and see how far everything is off!

SRB (5).jpg


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That's what they look like after being compressed for so many years...


I definitely recommend that separator tool. It's so much easier than a pickle fork, and if used carefully, it won't mess up the ball joint boot if you happen to be taking apart the front end and are going to be reusing that ball joint/control arm...
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
That's what they look like after being compressed for so many years...


I definitely recommend that separator tool. It's so much easier than a pickle fork, and if used carefully, it won't mess up the ball joint boot if you happen to be taking apart the front end and are going to be reusing that ball joint/control arm...
Click to expand...

That is cheap enough! I will be ordering one, but this boot looked like this before I took it off and the pass side look's the same.
 
Now I can't wait to get my forward bushings off so I can see how squished THEY are compared to new! Were yours noisy or causing oscillations/NVH thru the steering?
 
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