SRB's, Spacer's and LCA's

izackary said:
Now I can't wait to get my forward bushings off so I can see how squished THEY are compared to new! Were yours noisy or causing oscillations/NVH thru the steering?
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Nothing...mine made no noise or vibration's but had a slight pull to the left (very slight) when applying the brakes, still drove perfectly straight, but there was a noise when slowing down (not sure how to describe it), but when I sprayed PB blaster on the LCA ball joint, the noise would go away for a week or so. From what everyone was saying...it sounded like the LCA,s or the SRB's so I thought I would change both. Waaay to many miles on these!
Was just checking out the ball joint for the first time tonight and there was just a little play and it wasn't smooth when turning it (not smooth at all)! It was defiantly bad (but would have probably lasted longer). The SRB's through the LCA's were bad...bad causing a clunk when turning all the way right or all the way left (still would have lasted longer).
I'm convinced that if there is no play in your forward bushing's, (like mine had....no play), then there still good, but I thought I would change everything anyway (since I bought them in advance).
If you change your FRW SRB's, make some spacer's like I did....they fit like a glove!! These spacer's are SWEET!
Thank's to DLF and slowmkvii in post 1.
If I had to make the spacer's again I would make them with 1.250 end cap's, this would only take me a couple minute's out of the tube I already have. I'm going to make a few set's this week just to play around around with the CNC some more.
 
re; fwd bushings....I just ordered the rear bushings (for both sides) from a supplier; they don't sell the fowd bushings because those bushings are so rarely requested- the forwards rarely need replacing?
 
Everything is back together and looking good. The camber bolt was set at -3 so I set the new one at -3, the tire seem's to be pointed out (to the left) at the front. If I adjusted the camber bolt to "0" or +3, would that bring the back of the tire out to a straighter position? Trying to figure this out so I can drive it to get an alignment instead of towing it 25 miles.
I'm on the passenger side now and the camber is set at "0". This side is coming apart a lot easier, but the SRB's to the LCA are ten time's worse the the DS. Wasn't going to take pic's of this side but I guess I better, (maybe this thread will help someone else out down the road).

Front End (1).jpg


Front End (2).jpg


Front End (3).jpg


Front End (4).jpg


Front End (5).jpg


Front End (6).jpg
 
Markviiiedrea said:
I feel bad that you’re doing this in a gravel driveway, but it looks great!
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Laying on cardboard...lol Not too bad, I've worked in worse! Could be snowing or raining!

PS is getting ready to go back together. Painted some thing's and....waiting!

Anyone have any idea's on the DS...(kicking the back of the tire out a little)? Don't want to mess with the tie rod end if I don't have too.
 
dnsherrill said:
re; fwd bushings....I just ordered the rear bushings (for both sides) from a supplier; they don't sell the fowd bushings because those bushings are so rarely requested- the forwards rarely need replacing?
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I replaced the FWD's just because I wanted everything new. They were probably still good but I didn't know that until I took them apart, but the spacer's were a rusted piece of crap! They looked like one solid piece instead of two. There's no way I could have re-used them! But both side's are almost done! There is light at the end of the tunnel.
 
Passenger side is done! LCA bushing's to the SR were terrible! This side was worse then the driver's side, but easier to take apart for some reason, (just a couple hour's to take apart and put back together). Ball joint was shot. LCA bushing to sub frame was also shot.

Adjusted the driver's side camber bolt to "0" to bring out the rear of the tire (eye balled it) (I may have had my +'s and -'s mixed up, I dunno?) but looking at it I knew what had to be done. Rotated the tire's too.

Started it and let it air up (had to let the air out of the bag's because there was too much downward pressure on the LCA's). It aired up just fine considering the DS sensor is broke and just hanging there, (still trying to figure that one out)? Shut air ride off anyway to be on the safe side and took it for a ride.

It seem's to drive pretty straight with the exception that the steering wheel point's to the 11 o'clock position. Tomorrow going to take it in for a front end alignment (gonna leave air ride off until I get another sensor)!

WOW...new LCA's and SRB's...this thing should ride better then a dream! (it drove like a dream before)

PS Fix (1).jpg


PS Fix (2).jpg


PS Fix (3).jpg


PS Fix (4).jpg
 
Spree its good to see some one hang tight when some thing mechanical gives them a tough time. had a gunny while i was at aviation mechanical school that carried a riding stick. if you started to get mad and throw tools or hit his engine he would slam that stick close to your head and tell you to take five or go smoke a butt or have a cup of coffee then use your brain and work it out. sometimes it helps to hit the nut with two hammers. or to tighten it up a little then try removing it. also try splitting the nut with a chisel or grinding wheel. when grinding be careful to check the depth of the grind an not get into the threads on the bolt. a lot of times the heat from grinding will help loosen the nut. WELCOME to the DOWN AND DIRTY club. enjoy the car. jd
 
94m5 said:
Spree its good to see some one hang tight when some thing mechanical gives them a tough time. had a gunny while i was at aviation mechanical school that carried a riding stick. if you started to get mad and throw tools or hit his engine he would slam that stick close to your head and tell you to take five or go smoke a butt or have a cup of coffee then use your brain and work it out. sometimes it helps to hit the nut with two hammers. or to tighten it up a little then try removing it. also try splitting the nut with a chisel or grinding wheel. when grinding be careful to check the depth of the grind an not get into the threads on the bolt. a lot of times the heat from grinding will help loosen the nut. WELCOME to the DOWN AND DIRTY club. enjoy the car. jd
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There's no sense in getting mad at anything. There's allway's a way to work thing's out :) I'm not afraid to take my time or make what I need.
This car recently sat from 2008 to 2012 (in my driveway) because of an oil leak from hell. I just can't believe it was a $4 gasket! Since then I decided to fix everything! I've got 2k in her since last summer, (doing all the work myself) she may not look like it (or be worth it) but her interior is 99% perfect and now the suspension is 99% done. Everything work's including the air. Window's and moon roof don't leak, seat's aren't ripped, dash isn't cracked, 24 mpg 50/50, door's, rug, dash, headliner....everything look's new inside (nothing missing)! She doesn't spit or sputter, no running problem's what so ever and can still hit 2nd like no one's business.
Beside's the worn out paint and some rust underneath.....there isn't a 94 anywhere that look's and run's this good!!
Owned her since she was 5 years old and don't plan on getting rid of her anytime soon!
 
Took it in for an alignment this morning.
WOW...the ride quality has improved 100%. I didn't realize that the bushing's would change the ride quality so much! (I can't feel the crack's in the road anymore)
My camber was good, (both side's set at "0"). The caster was good, (who can't get that right)! The toe was off almost 1 degree on both side's.
They said I couldn't have got it any closer!
I think I may have to look at my Blazer some time!

Now I know what a new Mark VIII drove like back in '94... :) This thing can't ride any smoother!
Couldn't be happier! I have a 100 mile drive coming tomorrow. Just in time....Gonna be taking the Lincoln!
 
When U took my Silver Mark to Shlep Boys to get the alignment done they said the printer was outta ink so they couldn't tell me how close I got my front end.

I thought I got it good but I'll never know :(
 
2002WRXSTi said:
When U took my Silver Mark to Shlep Boys to get the alignment done they said the printer was outta ink so they couldn't tell me how close I got my front end.

I thought I got it good but I'll never know :(
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If you drove it there, you couldn't have been of to far!
 
Don't mean to bring up an old thread but...it's been 16 month's and 15,000 miles and everything is still holding up great!
Still drive's straight, stops straight and corners like a race car. So far I haven't had one problem out of the dorman upper's or lower's.
 
This is the aftermath of my drivers LCA ball joint breaking at 35mph on me :(
Inner.jpg
Now need a new '98 drivers side fender and inner liner....

Inner.jpg
 
Can't believe it's been 26 months. Still has the same alignment I did back in 2013. Everything is holding up great! No problems yet, thanks for the help everyone!! :) Been 18,000 miles now
 
Spree - I, too, have three other cars in the family - all newer than my LSC. But, when we go together to the beach or to visit Grandma, the family opts for the Lincoln. In winter, my wife prefers her Infiniti M, but only for the heated seats. This was an excellent project thread that was instructive for everybody. Thank you.
 
Marcus said:
For what it's worth, here are some pics of the proper positions of everything:

strutrodfull.jpg


frontbushings.jpg



rearbushings.jpg
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I'll be doing another front end rebuild- on my new acquisition- I found the forward (kframe) bushings oem, made by Ford...so far I haven't found the rear (LCA) oem, made by Ford...is there good a substitute?
 
dnsherrill said:
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I'll be doing another front end rebuild- on my new acquisition- I found the forward (kframe) bushings oem, made by Ford...so far I haven't found the rear (LCA) oem, made by Ford...is there good a substitute?
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Most aftermarket replacements for the LCA-side seem to hold up just fine.
 
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