Seriously - I need a walkthrough!!

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BodyByAAS

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Im looking at LASERS engine photo.. and one thing is coming to mind when I look at the drivers side valve cover - How the FUGG do these things come off?!?!?

I dont want to mess with the brake cylinder.. so please oh please someone help me :(

IMGP0481.jpg
 
marco said:
No hammers! Unbolt the drivers side motor mount jack motor up, at least that's what I think I have seen on here.
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Ummm.... I dont know if Im prepared to be moving the motor around LOL =/

my skills are limited to, screw and unscrew
 
Just read this on a Mustang Cobra site - Im guessing its the same?

Here's what you need to do;
-Remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body and air cleaner housing.
-For the right-hand cover, do the following:

1. Detach the engine wiring from the Mass Air Flow (MAF) and Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors.
2. Remove the nut that holds the A/C line to the right-hand, front fender apron, then gently lift the A/C line and feed the MAF and IAT wiring connectors under it. Position the connector out of the way.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure, then detach the fuel lines from the engine.
4. Remove the PCV valve from the rocker arm grommet, and position it out of the way.

-For the left-hand cover, perform the following steps:

1. Detach the speed control actuator cable from the throttle body and position it aside.
2. Disengage the engine control sensor extension wire connector from the electronic variable orifice sensor and oil pressure sender. Position the wiring out of the way.

-Now you can disconnect the spark plug wires from the plugs, remove the spark plug wires and wire retaining clips from the valve cover studs. Next, remove the valve cover mounting bolts and remove them. Remove all of the old gasket from the head and valve cover before installing a new one.
-To re-install, reverse the directions.


Also - if the Drivers side isnt leaking, should I even bother changing it now? Passenger side should be a piece of cake!
 
Seriously wait till you can get it to Jamie. I am comfortable doing brakes, I managed to do my passenger side valve cover and fabbed HID's using DLF's directions. I am still a noob compared to many on here, but compared to the general american I'm much more proficient with cars than the average person (again compared to the majority on here I'm a noob).

With that said the DS valve cover is a nightmare. It ruined my life for a good couple months. I took the hammer to the valve cover after I realized I already ruined the valve cover and the cam towers by tugging too hard. I didn't think the hammer would make things better. Trust me dude, if you're not comfortable messing with the motor mount this isn't a job for you. I should have left mine alone.

Don't f your car up to save a few dollars man...it will cost you MUCH more in the end if you mess something up!
 
ripped camel said:
Seriously wait till you can get it to Jamie. I am comfortable doing brakes, I managed to do my passenger side valve cover and fabbed HID's using DLF's directions. I am still a noob compared to many on here, but compared to the general american I'm much more proficient with cars than the average person (again compared to the majority on here I'm a noob).

With that said the DS valve cover is a nightmare. It ruined my life for a good couple months. I took the hammer to the valve cover after I realized I already ruined the valve cover and the cam towers by tugging too hard. I didn't think the hammer would make things better. Trust me dude, if you're not comfortable messing with the motor mount this isn't a job for you. I should have left mine alone.

Don't f your car up to save a few dollars man...it will cost you MUCH more in the end if you mess something up!
Click to expand...

Well see my DS might not be leaking, in which case I may save the extra gasket and what not for another rainy day - Is it alright to only replace one gasket?

Its not a matter of being not comfortable - I just think I can figure my way around a difficult screw or what not, whereas im afraid if I unbolt the motor its going to drop, and then Ill be fed LOL
 
why do you think i said good luck!!!! derek was gonna do the same thing to his that you are trying, and i had to put another motor in his car, then we found out the motor was junk, so i had to take it back out and put his original motor back in, after i refurbed a head i had and replaced the driverside head on his original motor. if you already have doubts, just stop, you'll break stuff before you manage to get it off.
 
dont follow the cobra walkthrough...........

remove everything i removed, loosen oil dipstick, jack up engine a bit......pull valve cover.........

it just takes time.....

Photo0939 (Small).jpg


Photo0940 (Small).jpg


Photo0941 (Small).jpg
 
BodyByAAS said:
Well see my DS might not be leaking, in which case I may save the extra gasket and what not for another rainy day - Is it alright to only replace one gasket?

Its not a matter of being not comfortable - I just think I can figure my way around a difficult screw or what not, whereas im afraid if I unbolt the motor its going to drop, and then Ill be fed LOL
Click to expand...

Your reasoning was the same I used. DON'T DO IT, BE WARNED! It's ok to just change one side. The Pass side is easier than the Driver side but it is not easy by a long shot. The only reason I think the pass side even worked for me is because my mount was shot, so when I jacked up that side of the motor it lifted a few inches by itself. So you may not have luck on either end.

Regardless it's not something to tackle as easy as it may seem. The difficulty isn't in removing the bolts, the difficulty is the valve cover doesn't clear the master cylinder and some other crap on the rear part of the valve cover closest to the master cylinder.

When you get it all unbolted it is so close to coming right off it looks like you can pull it out. Others said in older threads just use brute force (and they were serious it wasn't said in a sarcastic or joking manner). So I tugged. I'm not a puss, I can shrug 465lbs so the motion of pulling upwards is my strong point. I pulled so f'ing hard I literally pulled my leg into the ds quarter panel and made a gigantic dent simply by yanking on the cover. YOU WILL NOT GET IT OFF WITHOUT REMOVING THE MASS CYLINDER OR DROPPING THE MOTOR MOUNT.
 
Frogman said:
Hate to argue, but... it's possible to do without doing either. Note what has been taken off the master cylinder.
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True but $100 says if he did that one of his next threads will be about why his brakes don't work or why the pedal goes to the floor ......... or a picture of his car bursting into flames because the brake fluid on the exhaust ignited .......
 
Perhaps...

I know he's trying and I give him props for that, but IMHO some people should just not work on cars... theirs or otherwise. Those people should leave it up to a professional from the get-go and not after an epic screw-up that would end up costing them more money than just taking it to a professional in the first place.

Eh... to each their own, I suppose.
 
As a kid, my mechanic told me over and over that I should just bring it to him first, he got tired of fixing my mistakes.

I've gotten better but I know when it's out of my league!

You gotta learn somehow but I think I would feel much more comfortable disassembling a motor that I didn't depend on regularly!
 
You guys crack me up, seriously, I'm no rocket scientist, just because I know how to make bombs and then make them fly...oh wait

but no kidding, If you guys can figure it out so can anyone else, and with a little knowledgable guidence and some patients, why can't he figure out how to fix his own car

if you can't do it, it's ok little buddy, I'll mail you some crayons

if you have a day off, go to a salvage yard, take a car apart for practice, just take shyt apart, look how it's made and fits together...it's all a puzzle only 3D and not the flat ones with the pictures of baby seals that you like so much

my 9yo daughter just helped me fix a buddys 03 Pontiac bonnevile, she put the alternator on herself
 
And if you didn't notice from the pic, just remove the brake lines from the master, then all you have to do is bleed the brakes after you put everything back together...if you can take a shower by yourself, you have the mental and physical ability to bleed brakes
 
LaserSVT said:
True but $100 says if he did that one of his next threads will be about why his brakes don't work or why the pedal goes to the floor ......... or a picture of his car bursting into flames because the brake fluid on the exhaust ignited .......
Click to expand...

LOL yes, this is why I am NOT removing the master Cylinder

Sapperfire said:
but no kidding, If you guys can figure it out so can anyone else, and with a little knowledgable guidence and some patients, why can't he figure out how to fix his own car

if you can't do it, it's ok little buddy, I'll mail you some crayons
Click to expand...

Thank you, and ummm PM'd my address :)

Sapperfire said:
...if you can take a shower by yourself, you have the mental and physical ability to bleed brakes
Click to expand...

Another signature worthy quote - but It'll have to wait, cant have my whole sig a testament to your wit
 
If you unbolt the master you can just move it over a little and have no fluid loss at all. Frog had removed his lines into the master and I assume plugged them. But if you have never done that before then you will prolly lose all the fluid.

Sapperfire had a good suggestion with going to a JY and tearing into one to see how its done.
 
LaserSVT said:
If you unbolt the master you can just move it over a little and have no fluid loss at all. Frog had removed his lines into the master and I assume plugged them. But if you have never done that before then you will prolly lose all the fluid.

Sapperfire had a good suggestion with going to a JY and tearing into one to see how its done.
Click to expand...

This might be a dumb question, but I'd rather ask and know, rather then find out later.

Granted I know when I open any part of the engine I should keep the area clean, but do I need to do an oil change after swapping the gasket?
 
No. Just make sure to not drop anything in the head.
 
96hotrodlincoln said:
As a kid, my mechanic told me over and over that I should just bring it to him first, he got tired of fixing my mistakes.

I've gotten better but I know when it's out of my league!

You gotta learn somehow but I think I would feel much more comfortable disassembling a motor that I didn't depend on regularly!
Click to expand...

As a kid, I was told if it doesn't work, go fix it, and if you break it more I'm gonna beat you
you can remove the master from the booster as Laser said , just don't move the push rod sticking out of the booster, it's a screw in setting preset by the factory for throw distance in the Master...
Dude if I get a slow day at work I'll do a write up on this...but that won't be soon

seriously consider the junk yard idea, is free practice..and if you goof up...you get a free F
I would rather hear of you at least trying, and failing and then sending your car for repairs, than, I'm now broke, cars fixed
or if you just demand someone else spin your wrenches, bring it to ME!! I need some side work...I'll even take the stuff Jamie doesn't want
 
Sapperfire said:
if you just demand someone else spin your wrenches, bring it to ME!! I need some side work...I'll even take the stuff Jamie doesn't want
Click to expand...

Dude if you weren't in Waco, i'd be there - I might just drive up to Ft. Stewart, GA and have my brother in-law do it. He builds muscle cars and what not, and can tear this engine apart in like an hour LOL - then again, its an 800 mile drive.... I mean, Im sure I can handle this.

Will Junkyards just let you go and dissassemble :q:q:q:q? id think that would devalue their um...junk?
 
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