Sapperfires car is up for sale!

Can you comp test one of those before you yank it? As in, can you drag a battery to the yard or a jump box and jump the starter solenoid?
 
Sorry I cant spell the Texas names I am from Kansas and we do have a hard time speling. Lol. Hope it all works out for you if you still need the help when we come down I'd be happy to lend a hand, even if it is a bit of a drive from where we will be staying. I'll always go out of my way for another mark owner if they need help, no questions asked.
 
Once again, what's cheaper, new heads and rings and bearings and paying someone for a rebuild and timing...or throwing a whole used block in it... If you can't grasp the concept of BROKE i don't know what to tell you.
I make 7.75 per hour base, plus tech bonus...it's F U C K M A S time, nobody wants to spend money on fixing a car when little Johnny wants a new rc car and Susie wants another doll. At this time of year I might as well be flipping burgers. I did 2 sidejobs that netted me $120.
 
fastmark1993 said:
I helped you Because you helped me!
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People like you are the ones that give me slight hope for humanity :D

DieselDan- yes I'll be doing a compression test on every 4.6 dohc in this yard before I spend more $ on a junk motor, I have a fresh battery and I own a master compression test kit.

Keatonsdad- bro I appreciate that offer, I'm dropping -A- motor tomorrow so I can snag the coolant pipe from the back of the head. Then ill be getting the car towed to Bills to install it. Then if I can manage to save the money from the sidejobs, and not have some other expense take it all.. I'll be back out to get the motor on my next day off. I have to drive to Austin Monday night thru Thursday night for a company meeting, back to work in Waco on Friday, and Saturday the yard is closed for Xmas.
 
Sapperfire said:
Once again, what's cheaper, new heads and rings and bearings and paying someone for a rebuild and timing...or throwing a whole used block in it... If you can't grasp the concept of BROKE i don't know what to tell you.
I make 7.75 per hour base, plus tech bonus...it's F U C K M A S time, nobody wants to spend money on fixing a car when little Johnny wants a new rc car and Susie wants another doll. At this time of year I might as well be flipping burgers. I did 2 sidejobs that netted me $120.
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Considering you are having to do it over again rebuilding it yourself would be easier than taking a chance on some POS that is in the junkyard for a reason. You can rebuild your short block yourself assuming no machine work is needed (and it probably won't be anything more than a polish of the crank which you can do yourself) as cheap or maybe cheaper than buying a new-used engine. Bearings are cheap. Rings are fairly cheap (if it needs a re-ring, might be able to get away with out it). I've seen good used B heads for $125 a pair because no one wants them.
I've been broke before and managed to pull it off when I had no job and child support payments to make. I would prefer to spend a little more now and only have to do it once, but I am funny like that. Screw buying paint and crap to make it look pretty, make it run reliably. I'm pretty sure Laser can build a short block. My wife helped with my last one and I had no garage or overhang and built it in the damn kitchen. Not trying to bust your balls but I do believe both of you have been screwed by junkyard engines.
 
DieselDan said:
Can you comp test one of those before you yank it? As in, can you drag a battery to the yard or a jump box and jump the starter solenoid?
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I told him he better do a full comp check and if I aint there to send me a video of every cylinder being tested or he aint doing it here. I am sick of fuggin with his car doing the same damn swap over and over again. If he brings me one more bad motor I will shoot him in the leg. I just put a fresh clip of hollow points in the 9mm. :)

marked8 said:
Considering you are having to do it over again rebuilding it yourself would be easier than taking a chance on some POS that is in the junkyard for a reason. You can rebuild your short block yourself assuming no machine work is needed (and it probably won't be anything more than a polish of the crank which you can do yourself) as cheap or maybe cheaper than buying a new-used engine. Bearings are cheap. Rings are fairly cheap (if it needs a re-ring, might be able to get away with out it). I've seen good used B heads for $125 a pair because no one wants them.
I've been broke before and managed to pull it off when I had no job and child support payments to make. I would prefer to spend a little more now and only have to do it once, but I am funny like that. Screw buying paint and crap to make it look pretty, make it run reliably. I'm pretty sure Laser can build a short block. My wife helped with my last one and I had no garage or overhang and built it in the damn kitchen. Not trying to bust your balls but I do believe both of you have been screwed by junkyard engines.
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Dude, seriously. Lets examine this. Rings and bearings are what, $200? Gotta tear the motor completly down and it will need machining. Low compression at his low miles indicates that the rings prolly scarred the walls. Plus his block has been overheated many times so theres a line hone of the main as well. So theres another $500. Then the head needs all new valve guides and maybe a valve or two. Plus prolly some lash adjusters. There goes another $500.

To him my time is free and his is near worthless so a $150 block is the better bargain. Thing is he needs to be more careful on pucking his motor and not just grab the first turd that comes along. Look for a Mark thats there cause it was wrecked, if the body is in good shape that says its prolly there cause the motor is problematic. Then he needs to comp check the ENTIRE motor and make sure thats in line. Then take a look inside the head and look for sludge. If thats all good then chances are its a strong motor.
 
LaserSVT said:
Dude, seriously. Lets examine this. Rings and bearings are what, $200? Gotta tear the motor completly down and it will need machining. Low compression at his low miles indicates that the rings prolly scarred the walls. Plus his block has been overheated many times so theres a line hone of the main as well. So theres another $500. Then the head needs all new valve guides and maybe a valve or two. Plus prolly some lash adjusters. There goes another $500.
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The last engine (I know you sold it) could have been a good core for a cheapy rebuild. There is no chance in hell I ever put in a block that had a blown head gasket (learned my lesson the hard way) without replacing the bearings anyway. Again, assuming that a short block needs cylinder honing or a reground crank is just that, assuming. It could juts as easily be a burned valve or bad valve seal. There is no telling until you go in and take a look. I've seen completely redone heads for $250, so if someone is paying $500 then they aren't doing it right;) With everyone wanting C heads, B's are cheap.

To him my time is free and his is near worthless so a $150 block is the better bargain. Thing is he needs to be more careful on pucking his motor and not just grab the first turd that comes along. Look for a Mark thats there cause it was wrecked, if the body is in good shape that says its prolly there cause the motor is problematic. Then he needs to comp check the ENTIRE motor and make sure thats in line. Then take a look inside the head and look for sludge. If thats all good then chances are its a strong motor.
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Time is always money, especially is he is doing side jobs to make more of it. I agree with not picking the first turd that comes along as a very low mile complete engine sold a month or so ago on another site for $300 just because the guy wanted it out of his garage. Even with taking precautions you can get screwed. Just ask Jaime about the turd they sent him for Derrick. Again, these are just my opinions but one I have been thinking about during the entire rebuild.

Rod bearings (set 8) Part # RB4131 $26.79
Main Bearings (std) Part # 7289MA $ 56.79
Full set piston rings Part # PR4150 $ 55.99

Minus 5% Rock auto discount $139.57 total


Add a new oil pump Part # OP4131 $55.85

total $195.42

Again this is assuming the core is good and machine work is not needed and yes, I intentionally left out the gaskets and such as these need to be replaced regardless. I don't have as much experience as someone like Jaime but I am 3-0 so far with builds, better than the 0-2 I was getting rebuilt short blocks from different shops.
I've seen your guys work and have been impressed. I know you know what to look for when it is torn apart, and it doesn't take that much more work when it is out of the car on the stand, especially if it is just a changing of the bearings and a fresh oil pump. It is just good cheap insurance to me.
 
marked8 said:
The last engine (I know you sold it) could have been a good core for a cheapy rebuild. There is no chance in hell I ever put in a block that had a blown head gasket (learned my lesson the hard way) without replacing the bearings anyway. Again, assuming that a short block needs cylinder honing or a reground crank is just that, assuming. It could juts as easily be a burned valve or bad valve seal. There is no telling until you go in and take a look. I've seen completely redone heads for $250, so if someone is paying $500 then they aren't doing it right;) With everyone wanting C heads, B's are cheap.



Time is always money, especially is he is doing side jobs to make more of it. I agree with not picking the first turd that comes along as a very low mile complete engine sold a month or so ago on another site for $300 just because the guy wanted it out of his garage. Even with taking precautions you can get screwed. Just ask Jaime about the turd they sent him for Derrick. Again, these are just my opinions but one I have been thinking about during the entire rebuild.

Rod bearings (set 8) Part # RB4131 $26.79
Main Bearings (std) Part # 7289MA $ 56.79
Full set piston rings Part # PR4150 $ 55.99

Minus 5% Rock auto discount $139.57 total


Add a new oil pump Part # OP4131 $55.85

total $195.42

Again this is assuming the core is good and machine work is not needed and yes, I intentionally left out the gaskets and such as these need to be replaced regardless. I don't have as much experience as someone like Jaime but I am 3-0 so far with builds, better than the 0-2 I was getting rebuilt short blocks from different shops.
I've seen your guys work and have been impressed. I know you know what to look for when it is torn apart, and it doesn't take that much more work when it is out of the car on the stand, especially if it is just a changing of the bearings and a fresh oil pump. It is just good cheap insurance to me.
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I think it is time LVC took a collection for this guys poor wife and kids...I will donate $25.00 to the cause..PM me your with your particulars. Come on everyone who has viewed watching this guy... time to ante up more than a opinion.
 
ratdog442 said:
I think it is time LVC took a collection for this guys poor wife and kids...I will donate $25.00 to the cause..PM me your with your particulars. Come on everyone who has viewed watching this guy... time to ante up more than a opinion.
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I bought Laser an engine so I have done more than just run my mouth on the board offering opinions;) Unfortunately my wife lost her job mid October or I would buy him at least part of the parts myself.
 
bill you can stay inside if you want and play video games all day, this stuff is second nature to me now. I'm just tossing a pipe on for now so it doesn't over heat
 
i know you have to do what you have to do to make it work but i think you are absolutely insane buying a motor from a junkyard. there is a reason why the car went there and that reason means dont go near it. i love when people talk about miles too, i found a motor in the junkyard with only 65k on it, lmfao so what, wtf does that mean. my buddy matt just did a head on a 2010 camaro ss that blew a head gasket at 168 miles on the car. its a machine, anything can be wrong miles mean nothing.
 
I'm just curious and I suppose I may have missed this but, does the original JY motor have any warranty on it, as in they will atleast let you get another motor to replace their junk one they gave you? I just dont understand why you have to pay for another one...?
 
I sold the junk motor, the motor that's in my car right this minute is still the same block and heads that were put in it when it was born, i did not rebuild that motor because I didn't have time to, or the money for internal stuff, nor do I own a set up kit for timing a 4.6dohc vailable from SnapOn for $760. I live paycheck to paycheck, my checks have been roughly 400 every 2 weeks, my rent and lights run 700 month, my wife works part time @ min wage at a fast food place. So some basic math should tell you about how many dollars I have to toss around on car parts. I also work 6 days a week and still barely hit 40, yes I know, I need a new job...or we need to get a SHOP and do this for other people...OH WAIT! People don't pay to fix cars....damn I almost forgot
 
Jamie, you make me want to kill kittens and punch puppies

I'll let you ship me a brand new motor for $150 ok chief. I was going to have the other motor totally rebuilt, didn't really care about compression, but since Murphy always has to show up, my motor blew a head gasket, sealer wasn't helping anymore, we did a swap without doing a full compression test. Yes it was stupid, so the motor came back out, I sold it, got a headgasket and Mike got the bolts for me. The motor was running fine other than blowing water out of the exhaust. Now for some magical reason I have a staggered compression from cylinder 1 - 8 of 135-150, with the exception of cylinder 3 that has 125 because it has a bent valve.
 
Sapperfire said:
bill you can stay inside if you want and play video games all day, this stuff is second nature to me now. I'm just tossing a pipe on for now so it doesn't over heat
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STFU or I just may sit inside. Its gonna be cold tomorrow. Besides, I think if you remove the cowl you can get to the bolt that holds that thing in there. Just slather the new one in RTV and slap it in.
 
Remember the fun idea about replacing the heater core HOSES.. That's right, we waited till i had time to drop the entire motor down to get to the clamps... You've done smoked yourself retarded, I had to pry the hell out of that pipe to get it off with the motor on a stand
 
You people really don't understand the meaning of BROKE..means I don't have money, people that check heads want THAT in order to check them. I checked the decks and they appeared fine, no light shined under the ruler, the heads didn't have valve knock before we took it apart. The motor was strong just blowing water at start up and I would have to add coolant every other day
the head gasket was suppose to be the patch job to get me by till I get my taxes back, then I'm planning on getting another motor, rebuild, and get my wife a car...and fix whatever may be wrong with it.
 
i didnt say anything about what it costs to have a good motor sent to you, or whatever, but all the :q:q:q:qing money you keep spending on parts and junk yard motors you could have got a good known motor and paid shipping already. look, dont turn into a bigger dick because this is happening, its no ones fault on here. i understand what your money situation is, i am in the same god damn boat so you cant preach to me. you busted derek's balls all over this site for what he did to his car, maybe you should walk away from your car too. sell the :q:q:q:qer the way it is and go buy a pos dependable car, you are obviously in no place to be swapping motor on top of motor praying that maybe one of these junk yard boat anchors might run in your car. but you keep bitching you are broke yet you keep wasting money on garbage engines. when do you finally draw the line? dont own a car you cant afford, you should know that these cars are money pits, so if your pit is empty, you got the wrong car sunshine.
 
You call a cheaper car more dependable? That's why your not a mechanic, stick to selling car parts and doing headlights.
I've had cheaper cars, guess what, more shyt breaks on those than on this, and all the other shyt that breaks on this, has been replaced
I didn't say I'm dragging home a motor tomorrow did I, no, I said I'm getting a damn heater pipe so the coolant doesn't leak. I've got near enough to GET a motor to rebuild.
And don't preach back at me telling me to drive a turd car when your broke ass has 2 mark 8s, and I especially don't want to hear shyt from someone with 18" rims riding on bald tires
was the motor you sent Bill rebuilt?? No it wasn't, and he has a Super Charger on IT. It's holding fine, salvage motors aren't always bad
and yes I gave Derrick crap about what he did to his car, this is not the same as wailing on it with a hammer or whatever, then standing around with my thumb up my a$$ while someone else does all the work for me.

"go buy a pos dependable car" oh my god, you said that so everyone could see ya know
 
lmfao 18's with bald tires? when did i say i had bald tires. and bills motor was a motor i sold out of a car that was daily driven, i dont buy cars from the junk yard, there is a huge difference between a motor i sell that runs and something in the junkyard that is junk. and as far as me selling car parts and re-doing headlights? you dont know dick about me kiddo, i grew up in a mechanic shop, both my uncle and my father were gearheads, i also worked for 8 years at M&M service center in massachusetts doing tranny and motor swaps when i was 16 years old, so until you know my background dont open your mouth like that, you dont know what i can do to cars, if you call yourself a mechanic why did bill have to do the timing on your head?????????????????? you think i only know mark VIII's lol you can think that, you stick to brakes and exhaust.

thats what i though junior. good luck fixing your car i wont post in here anymore i'll back off now.
 
damn wow excatly yes sapp fix what u can and if that works great we all give u congrads trail and error is all ... wow im speachless
 
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