Poor Performance

Black smoke can be from misfiring also.

You said you replaced the coil packs and ignition wires? What brand did you use?

I've heard bad things about aftermarket coil packs and there are some crap wires out there.
 
Ok, I have been wrenching all day. This is what I have done. I cleaned all the spark plugs because they were covered with black soot. Checked spark plug wire firing order and it was correct. These will be changed, check the oil to make sure that it didn't smell like gas. Cleaned mass air meter. I installed per code 113 the Intake Air Temperature sensor. Started the car and it started right up and no spitting or choking. I let it run for about 30min and it ran so good I thought I had resolved everything. Turned off the engine and tried to start the moter and when I turned the key I could hear the fuel pump on and it kept running so I started the motor and it started to chug and do the same thing it was doing yesterday and I shut it down. I am going to install and different mass air meter soon and it looks like it is down to the mass air meter or ECU. Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks
 
I replaced the coil pack with AC Delco from Rock Auto because they didn't have any Motocraft left in inventory and the plug wires were from AZ.
 
If you've got a known working spare ECU, what's your hesitation with swapping it?

Have you checked fuel pressure, have you checked injector pulse?
 
I wanted to wait until I got a code for the ECU and I don't want to ruin the last one I have. That is why I will wait for the mass meter to arrive and then go from there. All of the codes that I have gotten doesn't relate to the ECU. You know it could be the coils packs, but since they are new I don't think they are bad. I still don't understand why the fuel pump sometimes stays on when I turn the key. Usually I hear it and it loads up and then I turn the key to start.
 
there could be a fuel issue, i cant remember if you changed the fuel filter or not but that can affect alot. mine did alot of spitting and sputtering because of it and can affect the pressure as well. also a misproperly installed coil/boot/spring could wreak havoc as well make sure they are all tight and making good connections. if you said it was running fine for 30min did you drive it or put it under a load?also the fuel pump should go on when the key is on, just not when its off. if its making an audible noise different then normal, that may be on its way out as well
 
Bad/leaking fuel pressure regulator or injector(s) maybe. Look at the hose going to the FPR see if there is fuel in it.
 
Hey everyone,

The fuel filter was changed in this July. Been a busy at the track today. Just check the fuel pressure and I get 32 when the engine is running and 40 when the engine off and the vaccum unpluged. Also, when I shut the engine off the pressure held at 30psi. Shouldn't there be a leak down or something? Please let me know.

Thanks
 
Engine-box.jpg
 
mistermaclincoln said:
Hey everyone,

The fuel filter was changed in this July. Been a busy at the track today. Just check the fuel pressure and I get 32 when the engine is running and 40 when the engine off and the vaccum unpluged. Also, when I shut the engine off the pressure held at 30psi. Shouldn't there be a leak down or something? Please let me know.

Thanks
Click to expand...

nope. that's correct. its fine.
 
They're a fun item...but also kinda handy... each color represents an issue. For each issue they offer 6 possible causes.

And if you were at the track with the Mark, ill go ahead and assume you weren't there to Ward off the West Nile Virus
 
My recommendation would be to clear the codes, then run KOEO and KOER tests to check for current issues (now that you've replaced the IAT and ECT sensors). That may help narrow down the problem.
 
people keep ment. fuel is it poss. u got bad gas or water,also the fuel pump has a rubber hose from pump to metal line in the tank i have seen cars get just enough preshure to start but not accel if the hose is bad,had a 5.0 one day it ran good next ran like crap dropped the tank thinking needs a pump, but only needed hose.that could couse pump to constantly run with no fuel leaks it dumps back into tank.
 
Okay, here is a update on my poor performance. I put on a new mass air meter and a new fuel pressure regulator, new spark plugs. Started right up and is running fine. I really didn't have to replace the FPR but I did it anyway. I retested and got a 157 and 136, 176 code after about an hour of driving. Since I was dumping so much fuel and running rich I am going to wait a few days to see if I can get the O2 to clear up. If the same codes come up then I will have to change the O2 sensor again. I will also be changing the spark plug wires. I am looking for vaccum leaks but I cannont find any. But I am happy to report that everything seems to be good. Thanks everyone for all you help.
 
Get a decent set of wires, I tried the 10mm Visions from eBay.. they are poorly made, clips at the coils break and the rubber on the end of the boot likes to remain on the plug when you pull them off.
Go with MSD if you've got the coin

Did you check for vac leaks with Carb cleaner?
 
Its going to be either motocraft of MDS. I had MDS before I went cheap and I will never do that again. I am sure that I got some bad gas somewhere but I put in some octane boost and its really running ok. I think the O2's will have to be changed because I am still getting a CEL, since I was dumping gas, so time will tell.
 
Sapperfire said:
Get a decent set of wires, I tried the 10mm Visions from eBay.. they are poorly made, clips at the coils break and the rubber on the end of the boot likes to remain on the plug when you pull them off.
Go with MSD if you've got the coin

Did you check for vac leaks with Carb cleaner?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have checked for vaccum leaks with Carb cleaner and I can't find any leaks. What about at the intake manifold? I have never re torqued the intake but could leaks be in that area and the injectors?
 
This is my latest update and I am a little suprised about the outcome. As I mention previously I replaced, the FPR, Mass air meter IAT, ECT and everything was fine until when the motor shutdown and I had had enough. I went ahead and replaced the ECU. I can't beleive how well its running, smooth as silk or Crown Royal Black and all that. Even my bad shifting tranny is shifting better and I can actually launch in drive now instead of 2nd but it still splits if I give it too much gas. No codes and is driving just fine. Awhile back No limit told me to change the ECU and I wanted to thank each and everyone of you for all you help. I still need a new tranny but it seem I still have bought a little more time. I hope that this theard help someone.

Thanks
 
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