Land Speed LS

I'd guess top speed to be about 160-170 for my car. I'm building an engine with stout enough internals to be able to pull 8K as necessary. Probably will go to the salt ultimately before switching to the upcoming purpose-built race car.
question. what type of tires are you guys running when driving at these speeds. I don't trust 32 pounds on my semi-worn tires to drive more than 85. I've only had the car up to 105 on a couple occasions. I just don't trust tires.
I switched to Michelin Pilot Sport P-2s before starting racing. They're terrible in snow and far beyond anything else in any other kind of condition. 245-45 ZR-18 on Verde Kaos rims.
Thanks! what do you run for pressure when driving that fast? Higher pressure than normal? lower? I have no idea. :confused:
my understanding has always been that the correct air pressure is crucial for heat dissipation. I have no qualms about hitting 120 on my Goodyears with the pressure indicated on the sidewall. But, I wouldn't be driving that fast for any real length of time.

For what it's worth, it takes just less than 38 seconds to go from zero to 140. And I just remembered that I put 40 pounds in the tires during a Maxton weekend, for a little less rolling resistance.

My sample connecting rod arrived from GRP yesterday. It's the only fully machined rod I've ever seen. The reason for a sample is to mock-up the lower end and see that there's clearance everywhere. Since the basic design was created for the 500 cubic inch, 1500+ HP Pro Stock engines running in NHRA, it's very beefy. It's conceivable but not likely that there could be some degree of interference with such places as the lower edges of the cylinder walls. And the time to find out about such things is before trying to do a final assembly. More later!!
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6/15 Update

Well, so far we've established that we need more clearance between the sides of the rod small end and the pin bosses on our Ross pistons. The simplest way to get the space we need is to slab the sides of the small end down so that instead of measuring 1.150 from side to side, we have just one inch. For purposes of arranging fit, we've actually taken our vertical belt sander to the bosses on the rod small end. Constant use of a digital dial caliper makes sure we don't go too far!;)
More later!!
Honda-size race rod bearings arrived today. Ya havta wait for everything when doing a job like this. Now the rod and piston have to be put in all eight cylinders and spun through an entire cycle to be sure there's no interference.

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For Your Information

The current issue of Hot Rod Magazine has an excellent article regarding ECTA land speed racing at Maxton, NC. And, most importantly, the body of the article has a number of photos of cars and the speeds they've achieved. By studying the various published speeds along side the record in E/F CC, 140.106 MPH, currently held by us under the Ben's Place Racing Team label, it's possible to make an evaluation of LS performance as compared to others. We don't look too bad!!
If it isn't one thing....

it's at least three others. As mentioned, the package only had a set of rod inserts---no main bearings. It turns out that, for whatever reason, the only source for mains is Jaguar and possibly to order them from England. :eek: I'm researching---more soon!!
the only source for mains is Jaguar and possibly to order them from England. :eek: I'm researching---more soon!!

Damn! Wonder how long that will take / how much it will cost?

Well, I'll be in England in 2 weeks, so if I can assist in any way, let me know!
According to a local Jag dealer, if they aren't in stock it takes a couple of extra days from England. Main set costs about $125.

I've found another source---A Jag dealer with direct purchase from England. It seems that mains are sold 'by the piece' with each half shell going for about $6.
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Further inquiry has lead to discovering that there is NO source for main bearings for the 3.9 engine. The dealer answer is to buy a new block. Or buy a short-block. Federal Mogul doesn't show any listing for the 3.9. I'm working with a direct British connection now. More soon!
Rod-To-Block Fit

Over the just-passed weekend, Tom and Ben And I put the crank in the block and tried the GRP sample rod in each of the cylinders. Happily there was NO interference with the block in any location. In order to fit the crank to the block, we simply washed the used main inserts and put them back in place. I wouldn't run an engine that way, but the used shells served admirably as spacers once they'd been cleaned and then oiled copiously.

The final specifications have been given to GRP. We should have a complete set of race rods before very long!!
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Rod Addenda

The Speed-Pro bearing shells we're using in the GRP rods need to be drilled for the bronze 'anti-spin' pin that's installed in the rod caps. Although this is a job that could be done in a home shop equipped with a drill press and a good vise, it's best done with a fixture in a properly-equipped machine shop. Chris Holbrook Racing Engines will be doing this job for me. The entire procedure will be delineated for your information at sometime within the next little while. I expect to offer all the serious tech regarding our engine build on the website. Check it out!!
Street or Race ?

A recent testy exchange here on the forum has led to a bench racing session involving a few cool libations and a fair amount of opinionating. Here’s the result of the opinionating.


It’s my position that a purpose-built race car is also a street car if it has all the accoutrements required by the state authorities for it to be operated on public streets.

Therefore, it follows that a street-driven vehicle that has all the necessary hardware to meet competition requirements is, of necessity, a ‘race’ car. With all this in mind, let’s explore the additions made to my ’02 LS in order for it to be accepted in Land Speed Racing in E/FCC class at the ECTA Maxton Monster Mile. Since pursuit of records is an ongoing thing, we have opted to meet the more stringent requirements spelled out for at least one faster level than we now occupy.

Let’s start at the back bumper of the car and progress forward, looking at the changes and additions done and in progress.

1. Custom ‘Chute pack and mount
2. Belly pan
3. Transmission blanket
4. NX Pro 400 package
5. Methanol fuel cell
6. Methanol pump and filters and plumbing
7. Eight point roll cage
8. Tri-spray fire suppression system
9. Six-point competition harness
10. Gauge panel/Switch panel/Aftermarket tachometer
11. Custom window net

Engine---4 litre AJ 27 Jaguar
1. Moldex crankshaft
2. GRP aluminum rods
3. Ross turbo pistons/ceramic coated crowns
4. Extrude Hone and hand porting
5. Del West Titanium valves/seats
6. Comp Cams and springs/hardware
7. Barnes dry sump pump and plumbing
This engine is on a stand while waiting for the rest of the pistons, the main bearings, ARP studs and other fasteners and some other hardware .

Under the hood, you’ll find aftermarket ducting that’s been modified to hook up to the methanol and N2O plumbing, and a set of Accel coils to aid ignition.

A pair of Garrett turbos and an un-finished cold side are on the bench and shelves, waiting to be fitted. Hot side is complete and on the car. There are numerous odds and ends, such as an electrical system disconnect in process of installation. The ultimate goal is to have a vehicle that’ll pass a 200 MPH safety tech inspection and be completely drivable on a daily basis.

Your comments are solicited!

Is it a daily driver or a race car---or maybe both? I guess it’s in the eye of the beholder !!

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Is it weird that the list of engine mods turned me on? :shifty:

Remember to sell me your car when you're done.

Verde Kaos are the name of those rims and they only fit LS's 20x8.5

Mine are 18s with Michelin Pilot P2s---245/45 ZR 18 mounted. I don't take much care of them and to make them look nice again I may paint.
I just got....

an email from GRP that they're shipping my rods! :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) Soon there'll be a shortblock!!

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