TDUB
Dedicated LVC Member
What little piece are you talking about?
Land Speed LS
- Thread starter cammerfe
- Start date
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
MAFS cleaning
If you remove the MAFS and look into the end closest to the filter, you'll see a black plastic 'nub', about the size of the first couple of joints of your little finger, sticking out into the airstream, from the location of the electric connection on the outside. The side toward the filter is vaguely 'U'-shaped. Look closely and you'll see a little open window at the top of the U with a tiny wire running across it. The U is designed to funnel the air through the window and across the tiny wire. The cooling effect of the air running across the wire is converted by the computer into a way of reading the volume of air going into the engine. If the wire is slightly dirty because of oil from the filter getting on it, or for any other reason, the reading will be slightly off. An auto parts store---I went to Murray's---will have spray cans of cleaner for electronics parts. Spray lightly and then let dry. (Don't use any alternative like brake cleaner of carb cleaner.) Reassemble. Reads like new. Wonderful---and the better signal from the cleaned MAFS will make you proud.
KS from Ben's Place
If you remove the MAFS and look into the end closest to the filter, you'll see a black plastic 'nub', about the size of the first couple of joints of your little finger, sticking out into the airstream, from the location of the electric connection on the outside. The side toward the filter is vaguely 'U'-shaped. Look closely and you'll see a little open window at the top of the U with a tiny wire running across it. The U is designed to funnel the air through the window and across the tiny wire. The cooling effect of the air running across the wire is converted by the computer into a way of reading the volume of air going into the engine. If the wire is slightly dirty because of oil from the filter getting on it, or for any other reason, the reading will be slightly off. An auto parts store---I went to Murray's---will have spray cans of cleaner for electronics parts. Spray lightly and then let dry. (Don't use any alternative like brake cleaner of carb cleaner.) Reassemble. Reads like new. Wonderful---and the better signal from the cleaned MAFS will make you proud.
KS from Ben's Place
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Chassis Mods
on another topic, I'm exploring the installation of race-oriented chassis parts to my '02 LS. You'll notice that in the regular LS forum, I've asked anyone with replaced shocks/struts still available to get in touch so that I can get some measurements. I'll make use of these measurements to spec the necessary coil-over shocks. I'll construct the correct mounting ends to make it possible to use a pair of double-adjustable race shocks with eyelet ends to fit the LS suspension.
Full race sway-bars are made from seamless tubing, or are made from bar stock and then gun-drilled. Since it's the outside diameter that determines the stiffness, (coupled with length and the end arm length), it's possible to utilize full race parts to produce an absolutely first class set-up.
It looks as if all the parts necessary to install a gun-drilled sway-bar will cost about $200. Such an installation will cut the weight nearly in half.
KS
on another topic, I'm exploring the installation of race-oriented chassis parts to my '02 LS. You'll notice that in the regular LS forum, I've asked anyone with replaced shocks/struts still available to get in touch so that I can get some measurements. I'll make use of these measurements to spec the necessary coil-over shocks. I'll construct the correct mounting ends to make it possible to use a pair of double-adjustable race shocks with eyelet ends to fit the LS suspension.
Full race sway-bars are made from seamless tubing, or are made from bar stock and then gun-drilled. Since it's the outside diameter that determines the stiffness, (coupled with length and the end arm length), it's possible to utilize full race parts to produce an absolutely first class set-up.
It looks as if all the parts necessary to install a gun-drilled sway-bar will cost about $200. Such an installation will cut the weight nearly in half.
KS
TDUB
Dedicated LVC Member
How difficult would the install be?
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Race-style sway bars
Since the bar is a simple straight piece, and the ends are detachable, it should be a very easy job to install. You could cut the original to make it easy to remove and then just put the new one in place, put the mounts on, and install the end arms. The links are usually clevises on the bar end and threaded on the other end to attach in the usual way. The bars are available in various diameters, wall thicknesses, and lengths. It's probably feasible to add about 10% stiffness to both front and back.
KS
Since the bar is a simple straight piece, and the ends are detachable, it should be a very easy job to install. You could cut the original to make it easy to remove and then just put the new one in place, put the mounts on, and install the end arms. The links are usually clevises on the bar end and threaded on the other end to attach in the usual way. The bars are available in various diameters, wall thicknesses, and lengths. It's probably feasible to add about 10% stiffness to both front and back.
KS
TDUB
Dedicated LVC Member
Wow. I'm interested in this for sure, let me know what you find out.
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
The Latest
Hello---Haven't been here for a couple of weeks while I had some issues with my computer.
Had a call from Ross (pistons) today. They'll be shipping my new pistons this next week. Last process is coatings, and theyll be done very soon. More in a few days!!
KS
Hello---Haven't been here for a couple of weeks while I had some issues with my computer.
Had a call from Ross (pistons) today. They'll be shipping my new pistons this next week. Last process is coatings, and theyll be done very soon. More in a few days!!
KS
fonsito
Dedicated LVC Member
Let me know for the swaybars and other suspension components
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Small Update
Pistons arrived today. I don't have them in hand; I'll pick them up tomorrow. Rods soon, and crank not for about another week or ten days.
KS
Pistons arrived today. I don't have them in hand; I'll pick them up tomorrow. Rods soon, and crank not for about another week or ten days.
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Pistons
There really is such a thing as custom pistons for an AJ27 engine. I got them home today and unwrapped one to see what it looks like---It looks like it was intended to be some sort of jewellery. Aside from the material and the manufacturing process it's only different in some small details from the stock cast items, including the diameter of the wrist pin, and the thickness and placement of the rings. I haven't got the 'numbers' yet, but just the ceramic heat barrier coating on the crown surface costs thirty dollars per piston. Speed costs, how fast do you wanna go?
I'll have my crank in another week or so, and the rods can't be too far behind.
KS
There really is such a thing as custom pistons for an AJ27 engine. I got them home today and unwrapped one to see what it looks like---It looks like it was intended to be some sort of jewellery. Aside from the material and the manufacturing process it's only different in some small details from the stock cast items, including the diameter of the wrist pin, and the thickness and placement of the rings. I haven't got the 'numbers' yet, but just the ceramic heat barrier coating on the crown surface costs thirty dollars per piston.
Speed costs, how fast do you wanna go?I'll have my crank in another week or so, and the rods can't be too far behind.
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Just got a call from Moldex. My crankshaft will be through the gas/heat treat sometime next week! Things are beginning to happen!
KS
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Slowly, Slowly....
A quick look at the date will tell you the most obvious thing about building an out-of-the-mainstream engine---everything has to be done from scratch. I just this afternoon actually went over to Moldex Tool and picked up my crankshaft. When it went through the very last round of measurements/examination several weeks ago, it was found that it was a half-thousandth larger than the specified size on the rod throws. A measuring tool had begun to go out of spec. It was therefore necessary to go back through the process and remove the extra half-thou.
I got it this afternoon. To the extent that a crankshaft can be so, it's a thing of beauty, with pronounced fillets for extra strength.
I have to do a set of measurements---'Trust but check'---and order the bearings. Then the next thing is to wait for the delivery of the aluminium rods. My tongue's hanging out so far that the front of my shirt is spitty!
KenS From Ben's Place
A quick look at the date will tell you the most obvious thing about building an out-of-the-mainstream engine---everything has to be done from scratch. I just this afternoon actually went over to Moldex Tool and picked up my crankshaft. When it went through the very last round of measurements/examination several weeks ago, it was found that it was a half-thousandth larger than the specified size on the rod throws. A measuring tool had begun to go out of spec. It was therefore necessary to go back through the process and remove the extra half-thou.
I got it this afternoon. To the extent that a crankshaft can be so, it's a thing of beauty, with pronounced fillets for extra strength.
I have to do a set of measurements---'Trust but check'---and order the bearings. Then the next thing is to wait for the delivery of the aluminium rods. My tongue's hanging out so far that the front of my shirt is spitty!
KenS From Ben's Place
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Strapped Mains
Those of you who've followed this narrative from the beginning will remember that I've described the architecture of the AJ engine as having all the main bearing caps integrated into a girdle structure that has four bolts (studs) attaching each main cap and a dozen or more holding the perimeter of the girdle.
Due to the strain on the crank imparted by the combination of a pair of turbos and several hundred horsepower of N2O/methanol spray, we had decided to reinforce the main caps with steel straps. A mock-up suggests that the straps should bridge the width of each cap area and be of 3/8ths stock. I've ordered a piece of cold rolled steel that should be good to go. If it turns out that it isn't dimensionally close enough, it may be necessary to take a skim cut off so that it's close enough.
We make progress!
KS
Those of you who've followed this narrative from the beginning will remember that I've described the architecture of the AJ engine as having all the main bearing caps integrated into a girdle structure that has four bolts (studs) attaching each main cap and a dozen or more holding the perimeter of the girdle.
Due to the strain on the crank imparted by the combination of a pair of turbos and several hundred horsepower of N2O/methanol spray, we had decided to reinforce the main caps with steel straps. A mock-up suggests that the straps should bridge the width of each cap area and be of 3/8ths stock. I've ordered a piece of cold rolled steel that should be good to go. If it turns out that it isn't dimensionally close enough, it may be necessary to take a skim cut off so that it's close enough.
We make progress!
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Another Day, Another...
We did some measuring today and found several things. First, on very close examination, the main cap/girdle has steel inserts cast into it. In other words, each 'cap' is actually steel, with the steel being an integral part of the massive aluminium casting that bolts down to the underside of the block.
We also found that we'll probably need to make the straps of 1/4 inch stock. Anything more than that would seem to make it necessary to cut clearances into the windage tray that bolts into the cast sump that makes up the third member of the 'sandwich'. (Block, girdle/mains, and sump.)
More soon, as we gather parts, and do the fitting necessary to have a good basis for our projected ECTA record winning engine.
KenS from Ben's Place
We did some measuring today and found several things. First, on very close examination, the main cap/girdle has steel inserts cast into it. In other words, each 'cap' is actually steel, with the steel being an integral part of the massive aluminium casting that bolts down to the underside of the block.
We also found that we'll probably need to make the straps of 1/4 inch stock. Anything more than that would seem to make it necessary to cut clearances into the windage tray that bolts into the cast sump that makes up the third member of the 'sandwich'. (Block, girdle/mains, and sump.)
More soon, as we gather parts, and do the fitting necessary to have a good basis for our projected ECTA record winning engine.
KenS from Ben's Place
Last edited:
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Turbos
One of the ways I 'keep my hand in' while waiting for parts to be custom made is to do a little jumping around from one part of the project to the next. Therefore, I now report on the latest tenants of my work bench. A pair of Garrett turbos have taken up residence and I'm little-by-little cutt'n'welding the pipes that'll install them. This first set of tubes is being made of ordinary exhaust tubing. It'll serve as a pattern, ultimately, for the 321 stainless second set. You'll remember that the purpose of this exercise is to have a basic engine with components strong enough to take 30 pounds of boost and 300 HP of spray/methanol.
KS
One of the ways I 'keep my hand in' while waiting for parts to be custom made is to do a little jumping around from one part of the project to the next. Therefore, I now report on the latest tenants of my work bench. A pair of Garrett turbos have taken up residence and I'm little-by-little cutt'n'welding the pipes that'll install them. This first set of tubes is being made of ordinary exhaust tubing. It'll serve as a pattern, ultimately, for the 321 stainless second set. You'll remember that the purpose of this exercise is to have a basic engine with components strong enough to take 30 pounds of boost and 300 HP of spray/methanol.
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Rod Information
I've been informed that the powdered-metal rods in the AJ series engines seem to be able to safely withstand as much as 400 HP. That would suggest a 150 N2O shot or 7-8 pounds from a turbo should be relatively safe. Since I plan to use aftermarket rods, this is only of academic interest to me. But it adds to the knowledge base in regard to mods to our engines!
KS
I've been informed that the powdered-metal rods in the AJ series engines seem to be able to safely withstand as much as 400 HP. That would suggest a 150 N2O shot or 7-8 pounds from a turbo should be relatively safe. Since I plan to use aftermarket rods, this is only of academic interest to me. But it adds to the knowledge base in regard to mods to our engines!
KS
BenGSX
LVC Member
Any Updates?
Where were you planning on locating the turbos?
Where were you planning on locating the turbos?
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Update
It's about 4 degrees here (at noon) and I haven't done anything on the engine for several weeks. I'm aiming to have the engine ready to go into the car by the end of April.
I'm using a complete Magnaflow exhaust. It's 2 1/4 inch. I intend to remove the cats, and put the turbos behind the rear bumper where the mufflers are at present. Intakes will extend through into the trunk, and I'll put removable bulkheads to isolate the spaces behind the wheelwells. Air will come from NACA ducts in the rear quarters. I'll 'Y' the cold sides together and take a tube forward on the driver's side, where it'll tie in to the existing intake duct. I'm using Tial wastegates and BOV. I'm exploring the use of aluminium 'rigid' electrical conduit for the cold side. One of the difficulties is fitting the cold side without having to re-do the belly pan.
As I'm sure I said above, I'll spray straight methanol for a chemical intercooler. I had great success with this approach on my last project.
KS
It's about 4 degrees here (at noon) and I haven't done anything on the engine for several weeks. I'm aiming to have the engine ready to go into the car by the end of April.
I'm using a complete Magnaflow exhaust. It's 2 1/4 inch. I intend to remove the cats, and put the turbos behind the rear bumper where the mufflers are at present. Intakes will extend through into the trunk, and I'll put removable bulkheads to isolate the spaces behind the wheelwells. Air will come from NACA ducts in the rear quarters. I'll 'Y' the cold sides together and take a tube forward on the driver's side, where it'll tie in to the existing intake duct. I'm using Tial wastegates and BOV. I'm exploring the use of aluminium 'rigid' electrical conduit for the cold side. One of the difficulties is fitting the cold side without having to re-do the belly pan.
As I'm sure I said above, I'll spray straight methanol for a chemical intercooler. I had great success with this approach on my last project.
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Bad luck! I had a dippy high-school girl side-swipe me and take out both passenger doors. I'm working on acquiring a pair of proper-color doors---and I'll have to pull the center of the 'B' pillar out by about a half inch and straighten out the front of the wheel-house/dogleg a little. And I have to have everything ready to hand before I go to work on it, because the car will be down while I do the work and it's a daily driver. !@#$%^&*&^%$#@!
Probably several weeks before it's fixed. On the other hand, I believe all the questions are now answered vis-a-vis the aluminum rods being built for the engine project.
KS
Probably several weeks before it's fixed. On the other hand, I believe all the questions are now answered vis-a-vis the aluminum rods being built for the engine project.
KS
Last edited:
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Does anyone need a pair of driver-side doors? I found a set but it was a complete set---all four. As you'll see above, I needed the passenger side so I have two spares. And it looks as if the 'B' pillar is moved at least an inch so there's more pulling required. But the roll-cage helped hold things in place. By the way, the doors are '06 and Burgundy. But the price was right.
KS
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
I've decided to replace three doors. The replacements I found are from an '06 so the mirrors fold and have the courtesy lamps in their bottom edges. Since I have to paint anyway, three doors is only a little more work than two, and now the mirrors will match. So I'll end up with a pair of doors for sale, but one will be burgundy and one will be white.
KS
KS
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Fitting custom aluminium rods
Had further discussion with the guys at GRP today. We finally have the parameters roughed-in to such an extent that they're making a single rod to be used in a 'mock-up' of the rotating assembly. Soft-ware-based analysis says that there should not be any interference with the bottoms of the cylinders, but that's theoretical. Actual installation and rotation tells the story for sure!
More later--
KS
Had further discussion with the guys at GRP today. We finally have the parameters roughed-in to such an extent that they're making a single rod to be used in a 'mock-up' of the rotating assembly. Soft-ware-based analysis says that there should not be any interference with the bottoms of the cylinders, but that's theoretical. Actual installation and rotation tells the story for sure!
More later--
KS