I Need Possible Solutions

Tiltedhalo said:
Lower IMRC leaks are very difficult to locate smoking probably will not pin point it.
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+1

I know Sapperfires car has a leak on one side but since he used starting spray and nothing happened he don't believe me. He has intermittent rough idle, intermittent rough start, intermittent CEL codes. Its a kinda common issue with our cars. I imagine first gens are more prone to it with the cardboard gaskets and all.




GMAN, drive your ass up here with my damn EVAP cans and I will look at your car for free. If you pick up 10' of VAC line then we can just hook your car to the gauge in mine and confirm if its a vac leak. I will go over the car and fix what I can. If the plenum has to be pulled then I will charge half of whatever a shop wants to charge..... or about 1/4 of what the dealer would want! :lol:
Hell, I have a perfect condition drivers side IMRC to head gasket as it was only the passenger side that was bad on mine.
 
Ok now that you guys have me confused as hell about o2 sensors what o2 sensor is causing a p0136?
 
Staffamerica74 said:
Ok now that you guys have me confused as hell about o2 sensors what o2 sensor is causing a p0136?
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Yours points to the second O2 on the passenger side. Prolly a bad O2 but could be burned wires.

Now thats just being lazy. A simple Google search of "P0136" would have told you that. :p
 
LOL i knew what the code meant but didnt know which side... good thing you guys got into this because i was ready to replace the drivers side. :-O
 
Ok, lets slow down to a crawl. My theory involves changing the air filter in the air box. Unmetered air is getting in and throwing off the MAF, and the computer is compensating. I had suspescted the Accel Air filter I bought, because it didn't fit correctly into the air box. it left a gap in one corner. So last night I took off the air tube, and yes No Limit, I went to the Junkyard and got another one. I cleanded the throttle body, and cleaned the MAF. I let it dry for about two hours before I conneced everything. As I was reading the the Diagnosis section from the Ford Maintenance CD, it says to check all vacuum lines and check PCV system. The plastic nipple that sits into the passenger side valve cover that connects the hose that goes to the air tube looked to not be seated in the hole properly, so i seated that, and I put in a new PCV valve on the driver's side. My mechanic friend this afternoon is going to do a smoke test to see if I am leaking any other place. I reset the code this morning with my scanner and I drove to work. The light would come on about every 40 miles. By the time I get to my mechanic friend, I will have driven about 40miles. I will see if the light comes back on.
 
Problem Solved!

I solved the problem. The vacuum T-Line was melted/cracked. I don't know why I didn't see this at first. I looked over everything else and didn't look at this at all. So everyone with a gen 2, check out yours. Make sure there's no tears or rips.
102_0684.jpg

102_0685.jpg
 
@$*#&#*@#$(@#$*S I just changed the two tubes that were attached to that T piece and noticed it is cracked EVERYWHERE on that T piece! I've had the same code as you forever now. Mine also came back on after 40 miles. I'm going to have to try that tomorrow before I buy the new OEM MAF that came in to my dealer.

Just an fyi a member from another site had both banks lean, then only 1 bank lean after resetting it but had the hesitation issues etc paired with bad mileage. He changed the MAF and the problem never came back. So if the problem comes back Gman it's got to be the MAF!

I've changed nearly everything else on my car. All that's left to change is the coils, MAF and IAC. Everything else is brand new.

By the way where can I buy that T piece new? I didn't replace it because the auto store didn't have one.
 
you cant imagine how many people have come to my shop for repairs and say oh by the way if you get a chance the car doesnt idle right, and its that vacuum T everytime. i even had a check engine light come on way back in 2004 when i bought my very first mark VIII, my 97 lsc started running crappy after about a month of me owning it, and i didnt know a whole lot about the gen 2 motor yet, and i found that one of the hoses on that T was sucked shut, it got so soft it would actually close on itself when running, i changed it, and the check engine light was gone. derek i cant remember what condition yours is in, but it is the same one that was on it, i never changed it so it could be bad, i dont think you can buy that piece, but i do have 2 of them!
 
Yup, I posted the same thing in both my progress threads. My 97 would suck the tube flat and my 98 had nothing but cracks on it. So I just eliminated that setup all together. :D
 
ripped camel said:
By the way where can I buy that T piece new? I didn't replace it because the auto store didn't have one.
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Derek, you can get this at any auto parts store. It's a $4.25 part. I am pretty confident this was the source of my problem. I've driven over 100 miles since I changed it, and the light is still off. Here's a pic of the package.




102_0687.jpg
 
Perfect I'll fix that tomorrow before I buy the MAF...I'll know right away if that's it because when I reset the pcm if it drives slow still I'll know that wasn't the only issue.

Thanks G-man.

Jamie could you imagine if all the headaches was this one stupid piece?! HAHA
 
i just checked mine out and it looks like it was already replaced and theres no need for it and now my issue is it still idles ruff and i need to replace the ait filter and spark plug in cyl one (misfire issue)
 
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