DieselDan's 94 Champagne/Black Progress Thread!

[97MarkJA]

I don't think its going anywhere.... I was lusting over a black on black '77 Mustang II with t-tops, 302/4speed and aluminum slot wheels....... but I don't see myself getting it.

That's something you dont see in the same sentence everyday, lusting and mustang II.

 

[Stangman]

That's something you dont see in the same sentence everyday, lusting and mustang II.

I love them. Can't get enough of them. My first car was a II. Its the one described in my sig

 

[ford nut]

That's something you dont see in the same sentence everyday, lusting and mustang II.

Two words...Bob Glidden

Nice work Dan!

 

[94m5]

Looks nice Dan. I'm chomping at the bit to get mine off the lift, and down the road.



Maybe in a few years.

 

[DieselDan]

Thanks for the compliments guys! I only have one concern about the rear bar and that is that I have heard that it is able of contacting the rear air bag and potentially popping it. Anyone know anything about that?

 

[Stangman]

Judging by the pics of the ends... I would just take a grinder and round off the edges real nice. Have you looked under it to see if it does come near the bags? Maybe under a full compresing of the rear suspension I could see the ends start to point upwards, but if they're far enough away now, I don't see the whole thing moving forwards.... idk

Hey, btw, I will be needing some help doing my COP swap. I've seen partially drawn diagrams but I can't seem to put all the pieces together... anyway you could help a guy out?

 

[DieselDan]

The COP swap is pretty straight forward once you make sense of the diagrams, did you look at 94m5's thread on it? I think I made a diagram in that thread somewhere.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=55050

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=811963&postcount=20

This is also an option: They are still for sale.
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...shortly.html&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13454925064753

 

[Stangman]

Yeah I saw those posts... I just can't follow those diagrams that well. The one that has the lvc emblem posted on it looks followable, if it were complete.....

 

[DieselDan]

The picture I made is the same idea, except it shows all the wire colors and is complete.

 

[Stangman]

I'll have to sit and study it some more and really think on it. I'm not an electrical expert lol

 

[ranger024x4]

awesome thread. great progress! I see alot of stuff that i want to do to my gen1

 

[Sapperfire]

That thing is quickly becoming a very nice Gen1.

 

[DieselDan]

Thank you very much for the Compliment!

I am extremely anxious to get to my next round of mods that I will get to begin on Friday...
After work tomorrow, I have 11 days off and have a friend coming to town on Sunday night, so I must be done before he gets here.

So the list goes:
Alternator Brackets
Was going to install

But then found a 96 in the JY and it has a setup identical to a second gen, but made on a first gen intake.
Pictured with the different hardware to use this setup.

The difference between the two.

And what it should look like installed.

P/S Reservoir Bracket
(Rich - My Great 8, sent me this for free, cuz he's a boss)

Turned it into this

Motor Mounts
(Turbo Chuck)

Strut Rod Bushings
(FoMoCo)

Front Addco 1 1/4" Sway bar with Energy Suspension bushings
(Addco 726)
No good picture of the bar, but here are the bushings.

Coolant Crossover Tube

Oil Pan Gasket

Oil Filter Adapter Gasket

HID Headlight Housings

93 Driveshaft with new Moog u-joints
I still need to install my trans yoke once I remove mine.

Energy Suspension Mount
(Energy Suspension 4-1104R )

And also I need to install a new Ambient air temperature sensor, and new cowl paneling. And possibly, a chrome shifter button.


All of this stuff will get done between tomorrow night, 9-13-12 and 9-15-12. Pretty sure I can get r done. Also thinking about recording it all. More to come!

 

[DieselDan]

Hey guys, I'm currently in the garage, I just wanted to upload this...

Don't buy crummy parts...

Movotech Suspension bushings - YouTube

 

[Sapperfire]

Holy crap ;(
You've done a lot of excellent work to that car dude, sucks when you have to go back a redo stuff you thought was fixed
I'm probably going to order everything that DLF will make, and then everything else TRW or FoMo.. so far all of my stuff is TRW and is holding together. I've still gotta send him $ for HID adapters, but you know how the cash flow game works

 

[m_maker]

Dan,
can you do me a favor and measure the K-member (steering rack) to oil pan clearance before and after Chuck's mounts ?
I am not looking for actual measurements, but the more like the actual difference in deck height they might create (they did on one of my installs). Thanks much

 

[DieselDan]

Well, I had a long progress report typed out, but my phone trolled me and I lost it all. I'll post again later on the computer.

J, the cradle is already down and the mounts are installed. I haven't put te cradle back up yet though. I did not take any before measurements, but I can try to get some after I reinstall the cradle, not sure if that helps you?

 

[UltimateSVT]

Hey guys, I'm currently in the garage, I just wanted to upload this...

Don't buy crummy parts...

Movotech Suspension bushings - YouTube

Dan that's some scary stuff. Thanks for the vid. Progress lookin sweet though. I'd say your car is one of the cleanest 1st Gen's on the forum.

 

[DieselDan]

Hello again everyone and welcome to some more progress!

These repairs have been done for about a week now, but we have had house guests and my computer is in the room that they were staying in.

Now, everything went fairly smoothly, but I did start to get anxious near the end because I had to keep starting/stopping due to our guests. So, enjoy the colored pixels!


Got the garage straightened out so that I could park the car in the Garage.

I began the job by tackling the 93 Driveshaft (with new u-joints) and an Energy Suspension transmission mount.
Swapping my trans yoke onto the new driveshaft.

Next up! Transmission mount:

I have heard some say that the slots in the transmission cross member need to be slotted longer towards the front. My only issue was that I needed to run a larger drill bit through the front of the slot to accommodate a slightly fatter bolt diameter.

After finishing the repairs up to this point and reassembling the under side of the car, I realized that I forgot my top engine bar at my mother's house and needed to go get it in my car. I noticed immediately that the drive line vibrations were completely gone (I have 3:73s) I typically got them from about 35mph on up, enough to make the rear view mirror shake pretty much all the time. Now driving is smooth as silk. I did not notice any real difference in the transmission mount, however there was nothing wrong with my old one.

So I arrived home to begin the rest of the modding.
Out with the old...

Making way for the new...

And, way mo better!

 

[DieselDan]

Engine pics by flashlight.

Here are the JUNK Movotech strut rod bushings along with some old Motorcraft bushings.
See my video here: Movotech Suspension bushings - YouTube

This is a pic showing the larger, factory style SRBs at the control arm (Bottom) and the upgraded Ford SRBs (Top)

Rain storm set me back a few hours because the rain was blowing into the garage.
(Picture of Rainstorm)

This is where I began my Oil pan gasket/Oil filter adapter/Motor mounts
I decided not to document this as much as I have already done a how to on this job, posted here:

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=81121

Here I removed the subframe and cleaned it.

Here are some pictures of my motor mounts, the LH side one was shot.
Under Accel:

Under Compression:

There is about a 1/4" of travel.

Florida car underbody pictures:

Turbo Chuck Left, Factory Right:

Motor mount hardware, Old hardware on the Right, new 10.9 Hardware on the Left:

Torqued the mounts to 30ft.lb.

Here are the Factory and Addco Front sway bars.
Stock Top, Addco bottom

Everything I have read says that you need to use 2 Shims under the sway bar bushings on each side, and that you must use a spacer in the tapered holes in the sway bar link holes. Well, in my case, I only used 1 spacer per side and shaved down the sway bar collars.
Before:

After:

This allowed the bar to stay lower in the subframe. Making oil filter swapping no harder and I do not have to worry about my sway bar contacting the a/c compressor, and I do not have to trim my fender wells. Below is a picture of the remaining space between the bar and the chassis. I also used the Energy Suspension bushings and they set the bar lower than the included bored out factory bushings.

The arrows were meant to show the center line of the bar, in case I needed to trim the body with the sub frame lowered.]

I also had 2 pairs of spacers made up for the sway bar links at the sway bar in 2 thicknesses, but found out that the Moog end links fit perfectly into the bar with no modification needed.

And here is the cleaned sub frame before I reinstalled it.

 

[mossbergman]

whoa. dude you do great work. How long did that take you to do all that?

 

[DieselDan]

After I finished everything I refilled the fluids and took her out for a spin. Some things that I noticed...

The car feels super tight, the only thing left to do to the suspension is Cobra brakes in the front and rear with some different rims.

I have had a chirp in the front end for about 3 years and have replaced nearly everything, except for the strut rod bushings. I did not see anything wrong with them (aside from the junky Movotech bushings, but they were installed last year to try to repair that same squeak with no changes.) But that chirp is now gone.

I would really love a firmer shock for the front end, but I am not going to shell out $700+ for new Stock bags, and I really want to keep my air ride. So I am weighing my options.

NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness) of the Poly Engine/Trans mounts is negligible. It may have been from the fact that I was on a collapsed Motor mount for I am not sure how long, but there feel to be less engine vibrations felt at idle and while driving.

I do notice a bit of creaking now from the interior panels when I drive slowly over non level places, like pulling in and out of parking lots at an angle. But I expected it.

The car felt bouncy overall even after the rear Bilsteins were installed, but now the car feels extremely well balanced. It is a bit on the firm side, but it is what I expected and I am very happy with it.

Overall, I am absolutely, 100% happy with all these mods. I highly recommend Turbo-Chuck's Type 9 motor mounts. The sway bars were not nearly the headache that I have heard that they are to install, and I am happy with my newest engine cosmetic mods.

I hope that my pictures and information prove to be informative to someone out there. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask!

Thanks!

 

[DieselDan]

Also meant to add these pictures:
I have had a Fubar cowl panel for a little while and also a water leak on the P/S floor. This is what the old one looked like, I was mainly concerned about the big dang crack by the screw in the center:

This is a picture of the source of my water leak. I pulled that oval piece out and cleaned out all of the old seam sealer, then used black silicone to re-seal it.

And, the finished product, sans wiper arms.

And lastly, the car parked in front of the house while setting up balloons for my son's 1 year birthday party.

 

[DieselDan]

whoa. dude you do great work. How long did that take you to do all that?

Thank you for the compliment. It took me 3 days total to do all that work, a bit longer than I wanted. Total hours worked though was only maybe 9 hours, just lots of interruptions.

 

[94m5]

Looking good Dan.

When ya coming out for a visit?