Separate names with a comma.
No, the wiring between the new ballasts and the bulbs isn't long enough. Yes, look at post #181.
I have another batch ready for the new year. Click HERE to Buy Now.
I should probably order the thin ballast option so they will tuck in somewhere. They have an optional wiring harness; that might be handy. I think it rolls into the order on their order page.
Just placed my order for my second pair. Nice quality workmanship. Gary
I'm going to order a pair. To do this conversion, buy these adapters, order either the VVME or DD kit for the 9006 HID bulbs, and a set of 9006 HID bulbs? Is that all the parts needed?
A "kit" usually comes with a pair of bulbs. I use the VVME slim ballast kit, 5000K.
Just finished another batch. Click HERE to Buy Now.
Somewhere out there are 120+ Mark VIII's with Delrin HID Adapters.
The beginning of "the count" ... now we know there are at least 120 still rolling!
I installed one of the bulb replacement kits with an adapter and it went well for the most part. I have an issue I'm wondering if anyone has seen. If the lights are in autolamp mode and I start the car in the dark, the new VVME bulb will not light up and I'll get the Check Headlamp message. If I turn them off/on it will then light up. If I turn them on manually or they turn on automatically while the car is running it is fine. Seems to be something with them trying to light up while the car is cranking. Edit - found this answer http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=64245&highlight=headlamp . One person says if the load isn't balanced it throws the message, one says you need a huge capacitor to stop the error from occurring during cranking.
I have the same issue, and I haven't yet found a fix.
My wires Jeep had the same problem I regrounded the individual ballast and it solved the problem.
Fixed that for ya. Both of my aftermarket ballast cases are grounded. I've also tried the "error cancelling" capacitor modules that are sold, but it didn't make a difference.
I notice that if I key on and let the bulbs light up then start, it doesn't happen. If I key on and crank at the same time, the voltage drop while the lights are trying to light must be what sets a code. I wonder if a higher cold cranking amp battery would prevent the voltage drop. I'm using a 675 cca battery now which seems low.
Just finished a fresh batch. Click HERE to Buy Now.
I just finished another batch. Click HERE to Buy Now.
The "count" is now 150+!
Are there any sets available?
He should have plenty left. I just got a set not long ago from him. I haven't installed the housings yet because I'm waiting on a true Phillips kit for them but they'll be in soon. DLF's adapters are Grade - A Just go to his buy it now link and purchase a set. He'll have them to you within 2 days. He packages and ships nice and quick! PayPal for him is here. Describe your purchase in the notes. email@example.com
They Look Grade A, I just wasn't sure because his last buy now post was in June, once my housings get here I will be ordering a set. Also what is the best replacement screw to use for these??
Where does one get a set of true Phillips bulbs?
I don't have a true answer for that one yet. I had to round up 6 screws with a hex head and luckily they work but I don't know their exact length and size. Chris might have the answer for that one or Doug might be able to tell you but they don't have to be long. Take a housing inside Home Depot and test fit while inside the store. The holes are brittle because of their age and they will crack at the hole if the screw is too big.
Thanks! Please don't do that, click on my link instead.
I'm off your parts counter lol. He said he was waiting anyway and I couldn't round up "your link" and watch the races at the same time. I'm clocking out for lunch..