Best gear oil for my new Trac Lok

send it terry, and i'll put a video up of me dumping them straight into my waste oil barrel, just to make you cry. i seriously wont use it, its a waste of money. just like nitrogen in your tires, or platinum plug, or skim milk, all the above are a waste.
 
jamie97lsc said:
send it terry, and i'll put a video up of me dumping them straight into my waste oil barrel, just to make you cry. i seriously wont use it, its a waste of money. just like nitrogen in your tires, or platinum plug, or skim milk, all the above are a waste.
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I agree with nitrogen in the tires and platinum plugs and skim milk just sucks anyway but the oil, #1 so do the engine right and just use it. It will run cooler, which is something you need in FL. It makes things cleaner and it's just the best.
 
runs cooler. lol i drive like 81 feet to work the car doesnt even warm up enuff lmao. i dont care what you say i will not spend the money on synthetic oil in my engine, you look at it differently than i do, the way i see synthetic oil is this...
here i am on the toilet taking a dump, i have synthetic oil in my hand and i am wiping my crack with it, now i am throwing synthetic oil in the toilet and flushing it down, over and over again, you see my point, the extra money i would spend on it, can put a few meals on the table for us and the kids. catch my drift. if it was the same price as conventional oil, i wouldnt mind using it, but until it is, no thanks.
 
Jamie we are not trying to change you. We know the effort is futile. :lol:

If you get rid of cars often (as you do) or dont go WOT allot (like I do) and keep up with oil changes then regular dino oil is just fine. Granted synthetic is a MUST on a 03/04 Cobra engine because of the ultra tight piston/cylinder clearences but its not as important on our cars. Yes it has a higher viscosity and breaks down slower and for me thats worth spending the extra $8 for it cause I want to offer my motor as much protection as I can. I want something rthat stands up better to these rediculous temperature changes this state offers as well as the high temps we see in the summer.


So what brand do you use Jamie?
 
Jamie, Jamie, Jamie.....

Ok, look at it like this, you pay the price for 6 quarts of oil and (normal oil btw) and you change that oil every 3000, compared to only changing it once every 7K to 9K miles and know that the engine has a lubricant in it that is doing it's job.

Mobile 1 FS
My cost is $6.99 per quart. $41.94 and good for an easy 9,000 miles.

Mobile 5000
My cost is $2.99 per quart. $17.94 and good for 3000 or so and scary to me at WOT and runs hotter.

Motorcraft like you mentioned
My cost would be $3.49 per quart. $20.94 and good for 3000 or so and I would still be scared to push it with any WOT take off's.

Ok, now you change that oil every 3000 miles (3 times) or (2 times) compared to my one change and how much are you saving? It depends on what that part cost in the engine that got :q:q:q:qed up with that bull:q:q:q:q oil you put in. :D

I understand saving money on things, believe me but when it comes to my engine oil, I believe in saving the engine and myself the hassle, especially if you plan on keeping that car. Less engine wear, less friction, and the list goes on. You may as well go ahead and run Type F in your transmission too to save a few dollars. Mercon V is just a waste at $5 to $6 per quart. Do you really believe Mercon V makes a difference in the trans?

Can someone convince this hard head.
 
jamie97lsc said:
ah, i dont care, argue all you want lol makes no difference to me.
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I'm not saying anything else. It's your engine. While mine has 124K on it, I'm gonna try and save it now because idk what the hell has been ran in it all it's life. This one is 40K miles newer than my 94 was when I bought it so at least I'll know I'm doing something good for it. I see an idle temp change from my 94 compared to the 95. The 95 seems to run cooler when driving on the HWY but runs warmer when at idle. I'll see if any of this changes when I put the other oil in. I think it will idle cooler and probably run even cooler on the HWY too.
 
What's this big deal about oil brands?

If it's a synthetic of the correct weight that meets / exceeds Ford's specs for the vehicle and it's changed regularly, I don't see the big deal. (although I was a Mobil 1 user, myself)

Lab testing used samples and posting the results would be good.
 
93' Blue on blue said:
What's this big deal about oil brands?

If it's a synthetic of the correct weight that meets / exceeds Ford's specs for the vehicle and it's changed regularly, I don't see the big deal. (although I was a Mobil 1 user, myself)

Lab testing used samples and posting the results would be good.
Click to expand...

Jamie doesn't believe in synthetic. He would rather use conventional oil. He ain't arguing though.
 
i just dont care about synthetic vs conventional, how long has the automobile been on earth? now how long has synthetic oil been on earth? we did just fine before it was invented right? my buddies dad has a 1982 f-250 with 475k miles on the original untouched 351, he uses 5 cent oil in it, it would pull your mark in half its a beast. what did we do before cell phones were invented, we lived just fine, our cars lived fine on conventional oil too. if i blow my motor up, which i wont, i'll toss another on in it for nothing!!!! see where i am getting at here, makes no difference to me.
 
I beg to differ on the Royal Purple oil! I've had tests done with Blackstone labs and saw other peoples tests. That oil holds up to at least 10,000 miles without a loss in lubrication. You can actually see the car idle smoother when switching from standard oils too.

I filled up my mother and father in laws 03 Town Car with Royal purple...months later they didn't realize they were real low on oil. They drove 1000 miles to my house to visit and when they got here they had no oil on the dipstick at all. When I went to change the oil for them almost nothing was in there...only about 1 1/2 quarts. I am absolutely confident the only reason that thing wasn't knocking and seizing up, driving such a long distance with heat is because of the Royal Purple oil. The fact it held up for 1000 mile 1 day drive with only a 1 1/2 of oil without blowing up speaks volumes for me!

Once I fix the seals on my Mark, it will have Royal Purple as well.
 
I run syn. in my rear end NO friction mod. as per ford
but if you are putting in new gears you should use normal oil as you NEED to break
them in properly don't waste money on your oil until they are broke in
 
Meh, dont care any more. I looked at what people run oil for long periods then I checked 3 different test reports (RP was dead last or close to it in EVERY test), then I spoke to some Ford tech then decided to go with what I wanted anyway and am running Mobil1 and ford reccomended FRPP.

Works great. 1800 miles latter and all is well and quiet.
 
slowmkviii said:
I run syn. in my rear end NO friction mod. as per ford
but if you are putting in new gears you should use normal oil as you NEED to break
them in properly don't waste money on your oil until they are broke in
Click to expand...

Since when does Ford say not to put Modifier in a Track-Lok diff? Please tell... :)
 
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