Well it’s about time we hear from Svets.
I thought he got himself locked up. ----
Svets -- I did it that way because it was the quickest and easiest route I could see without getting under the car – it took all of 10 minutes, -- that said, I’m sure there are other ways to route the leads.
Keep in mind you only have to route the positive lead – you can put the negative lead on any one of a hundred different bolts, nuts, screws that are grounded, in the front end.
You could cut a section out of the ring on the lead, making it into an open ended fork lug that will slip under the screw (bolt?) head – then tighten up the screw.
I did this on the positive lead on my wife’s Chrysler convertible.
13 year old battery??
If it were me, I would stay close to home.
I just got my Mark over the winter and stored it until March when all the work began on it. All I'm looking to do is get a torque converter and work on the neon light. Everything else is golden.
Very cool, glad others are taking well care of these late model luxury cars.
Might want to check out Luk Schaefler Torque Converters. They make a heavy stall converter, perfect for what you want and what you plan to do with the Mark.
The neon tail light has some ballasts issues. Might have to search a little but you can find a Glitch ballast or the dc45 ballast: dc45 ballast - Google Search
Neon ballast LVC thread: ballast works cheaper $$$
There might be others. Others have said the dc45 is a lot brighter than stock and not difficult to install either! Which is a plus.
Dude that Cutlass is killer. My friend got a 4 door early 1980s model. He buffed the paint out, its like a new car. Placed a 383 small block in it, with low profile side pipes! lol It was in his family since new. He kept the wire wheel hub caps. Clean no rust.
Thats a tough one, I suck at electric problems. Hopefully for you its just a little fuse. I know for sure those could only be the issues, everything else with the neon taillights on the Mark are pretty flawless.