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That’s the brand I’ve always used over the years.
Its been forever since I posted. Been working on my business, and hadn't any time for LVC. But I'm back. I got a question I am trying to snake an Battery Tender Extension cord under hood. I can make it through, but it looks like it will touch the starter, trans lines, and maybe fans. It looks like it but it wont. I just don't want anything to melt. I have to find an alternative route. Might have to pull the front cover panel off and snake it through there. We'll see...Anyone attach a battery tender plus extension line brand through their engine bay? FlaOkie I know you have I still have the pic in this thread. Seeing how else I can do it.
Well it’s about time we hear from Svets. I thought he got himself locked up. ---- Svets -- I did it that way because it was the quickest and easiest route I could see without getting under the car – it took all of 10 minutes, -- that said, I’m sure there are other ways to route the leads. Keep in mind you only have to route the positive lead – you can put the negative lead on any one of a hundred different bolts, nuts, screws that are grounded, in the front end.
Lol Just got done from routing the Battery Tender wire. I have to get the smaller length, the longer length I have is too long. What I did was take the top black cover piece off, shoved the wire behind the headlight assembly, and up against the intake silencer. The end lead is easy to plug in and tuck up into the bumper. I still have to put the front cover on. That was some what easy. Just had to think about it a little. Thanks FlaOkie.
Well I got a shorter extension. Then I started to place the ring terminals from the Battery Tender to the positive lead, the screw on the battery cable won't come out. Its one of those screws that stay in its place. What a pita. So could I get a couple nuts and place the ring terminal on then screw the nuts so it fits snug up against each connection? Hopefully this won't start a fire or anything. What thread are these battery connection screws? Could it even be done? Just my luck I guess. Its one of those little nuances.
You could cut a section out of the ring on the lead, making it into an open ended fork lug that will slip under the screw (bolt?) head – then tighten up the screw. I did this on the positive lead on my wife’s Chrysler convertible.
That's a good way of thought. Only thing is I'm afraid of it catching on fire, for missing a section. That's just my nerves I guess. I think what I'll do at some point is use the aligator clips. Clamp them going on the sides of the battery terminals so I can close the hood. This would be when I would have to snake the wires under the front plastic finishing cowl and the Deltran tender plug would hang to where I can just hook it up. Then throw the cover on the car. Hopefully nothing happens if the car is covered. Some say "The battery needs air so it can give off gas" or something along those lines.
So as of late my battery is fully charged ready to rip! I'm taking it on its maiden voyage tomorrow morning. Going to get some fresh Shell 94 V-Power with Nitro.
Car ran great. Still can't believe the battery is still goin strong, from '06. Don't know exactly when I'm going to get the car in for the front suspension rebuild this summer. Have to do some other projects for business first. I'll let you dudes know. I'll post some pics and a price for the work complete.
13 year old battery?? If it were me, I would stay close to home.
I do stay around town. I do keep it on the Deltran, at first it blinks green for awhile then green light stays on. Car always fired up real quick. I may replace it sooner or later. I'm looking at getting a BOSCH battery. Those are very good, especially for these luxury cars.
What a nice looking car you have! Especially nice for N.E. Ohio! You did a great job on it.
Thanks dude! As you know its a labor of love. In the winter it hibernates like a bear.
I just got my Mark over the winter and stored it until March when all the work began on it. All I'm looking to do is get a torque converter and work on the neon light. Everything else is golden.
Here's my old Cutty that I had to unfortunately sell last year and my new Mark.
Very cool, glad others are taking well care of these late model luxury cars. Might want to check out Luk Schaefler Torque Converters. They make a heavy stall converter, perfect for what you want and what you plan to do with the Mark. The neon tail light has some ballasts issues. Might have to search a little but you can find a Glitch ballast or the dc45 ballast: dc45 ballast - Google Search Neon ballast LVC thread: ballast works cheaper $$$ There might be others. Others have said the dc45 is a lot brighter than stock and not difficult to install either! Which is a plus.
I don't think it's the ballast. The neon does not flicker at all. I need to check the fuse and wiring. I'm hoping it's not the neon itself. Not sure what else to test.
Dude that Cutlass is killer. My friend got a 4 door early 1980s model. He buffed the paint out, its like a new car. Placed a 383 small block in it, with low profile side pipes! lol It was in his family since new. He kept the wire wheel hub caps. Clean no rust.
Thats a tough one, I suck at electric problems. Hopefully for you its just a little fuse. I know for sure those could only be the issues, everything else with the neon taillights on the Mark are pretty flawless.
Thanks. Mine was an 81 with a total Chevy drivetrain. Started with a 383 Stroker and TH350. Eventually went to 454 monster (594 hp) and a built stage 2 2004r trans built by Janis out of Ohio. I really miss that car.
Once the weather breaks, I'll dig in. Thanks for the advice.