If the piston isn't retracting back into the caliper when you release the pedal, well, not retract completely, but release tension, then the issue would be with the caliper itself.
Yeah, that's true. It's too bad that other people outside our LvC group (which are usually affiliated with the other forums too) are so uneducated about these cars, and have no idea about the true value of these cars, which unfortunately isn't much anymore.
With trans fluid? And just let it soak it up? Does it leave any residue, or do you go over it again the next day with a dry cloth? Does your car smell like clean transmission? haha
You can get a basic scan tool from your local auto parts store. Autozone carries them I think. That's where I got mine. I got the most basic one though, it just shows you the code, and lets you clear them.
I don't think you understand what I'm saying. The mounts and bushings that came in the box with my new rear shocks from StrutMasters were a different setup then you described. Maybe that's why their starting to make the clunk again. But yes, I understand what your saying and the way they should...
For some reason, I just saw this post. Thanks for the breakdown. For some reason, I remember the bushings that came with the mounts that StrutMasters provided (because I got a complete kit that included rear shocks as well) were one piece. It was like tiered. You shoved it into the mount with...
One goes on the top, one on the bottom right? I'll PM you.
Tim, what the hell is that rod/spacer thing for? I don't even remember what they look like, it's been a while since I've been back there.
I've had them in there for just over a year now. I know exactly what you mean. However, they provided some decent rear shocks. The front coil overs suck. Trust me, I know.
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