Bad brake calipers?

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ForeverScrewed

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I replaced my front lower control arms this past weekend and figured I may as well replace all 4 brakes while I was at it. Control arms went on great, front pads went on great. Got to the rears, used the stupidly designed "tool" to turn the piston back into the bore put it all back together and now the rear brakes are dragging. I double checked my work to make sure everything was right and it was. Jacked up the rear and put it on stands and rotated the wheels and sure enough they were dragging. It seems like the pistons aren't returning when I let off the brake pedal. I even put the old brakes back on and still the same issue. Now any other time I would say bad caliper but what are the chances of it happening to both calipers at the same time?
 
If the piston isn't retracting back into the caliper when you release the pedal, well, not retract completely, but release tension, then the issue would be with the caliper itself.
 
Oh, that's right. I forgot about the parking brake setup on these cars. That could also do it....
 
chris2523 said:
it doesn't have to apply enough to work, just enough to drag a little.
Click to expand...

Well what I'm saying is I can push the parking brake pedal all the way to the floor with no resistance whatsoever. I'm not real familiar on the parking cable set-up in these cars.
 
So I unhooked the parking brake from both calipers and it still has the same issue, once I open the bleeders they will release until the brake is depressed again.
 
I'm trying to figure that out..... I don't know if the issue would be in the calipers or the MC...
 
chris2523 said:
or the brake lines.
Click to expand...

Exactly. I'm kinda lacking in the brake troubleshooting dept. I found it kind of odd that on the passengers side rear caliper when I opened the bleeder andhad someone press the brake, the fluid just trickled out, but when I do it to the drivers side it sprays as it should, almost as if one of the lines are clogged.
 
ForeverScrewed said:
Exactly. I'm kinda lacking in the brake troubleshooting dept. I found it kind of odd that on the passengers side rear caliper when I opened the bleeder andhad someone press the brake, the fluid just trickled out, but when I do it to the drivers side it sprays as it should, almost as if one of the lines are clogged.
Click to expand...

Take a tiny drill bit and work it with your fingers in the bleeder valve, they get sand in them if the rubber cap is missing
 
Sapperfire said:
Take a tiny drill bit and work it with your fingers in the bleeder valve, they get sand in them if the rubber cap is missing
Click to expand...

So the bleeder was clogged on the passenger side, it's good now, and the problem still persists. I removed both brake lines and made sure I was getting fluid to the calipers, both sides checked out good.

I am still stuck on this, I find it very odd that both calipers started dragging at the same time, although I know it's not improbable, I really hope I don't have to put up 200 bucks for new calipers if I don't have to... My Mark has been sitting on jackstands for 2 weeks now and I miss driving it!
 
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=65849&highlight=collapse



I remember this thread from a while back, could this be a possiblity ? Im not mechanically savy but I found what monstermark said was interesting....

The rubber brake lines will degradate over time and the interior of the lines will soften. Then a small piece will peelaway from the brake lining. It will actasa gate. When you apply the brake, the pressure will force the gate up against the brake lining. Once you release the brake and the pressure, this flap will collapse and cause a dam in the flexible rubber brake tubing, preventing the pressure from dissipating normally. Eventually the pressure will normalize but repeated breaking will hold the pad on the rotor for extended periods of time thus reducing pad life and eventually rotor wear and failure.
 
joeynat said:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=65849&highlight=collapse



I remember this thread from a while back, could this be a possiblity ? Im not mechanically savy but I found what monstermark said was interesting....

The rubber brake lines will degradate over time and the interior of the lines will soften. Then a small piece will peelaway from the brake lining. It will actasa gate. When you apply the brake, the pressure will force the gate up against the brake lining. Once you release the brake and the pressure, this flap will collapse and cause a dam in the flexible rubber brake tubing, preventing the pressure from dissipating normally. Eventually the pressure will normalize but repeated breaking will hold the pad on the rotor for extended periods of time thus reducing pad life and eventually rotor wear and failure.
Click to expand...

To check this, spin the rotor with the wheel off, then open the caliper bleeder valve (did it free up?) If so it'd a bad hose, if not itll be the caliper or caliper guide hardware (depending on pad wear)
 
Sapperfire said:
To check this, spin the rotor with the wheel off, then open the caliper bleeder valve (did it free up?) If so it'd a bad hose, if not itll be the caliper or caliper guide hardware (depending on pad wear)
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what it does... with the wheel off the rotor is hard to turn (after depressing the brake pedal) until I crack the bleeder valve, then it frees up again until the brakes are depressed....
 
OK, so I just got the new brake lines put in (both sides) and I still have the same problem. The brakes still free up when I crack the bleeder. I took some videos so you guys can see what I'm talking about. the first vid is the car running in drive, with the wheels off....
The second video is when i crack the bleeder valve then close it...

th_IMG_01071.jpg


th_IMG_01081.jpg
 
Have you checked the front calipers to see if they are dragging? The brake system on this car is crossed. LF & RR, RF & LR. They only ting common to both, would be the master cylinder.
 
The Fronts aren't dragging, just the rears. I thought for sure the brake lines would fix it
 
Use a spacer to compensate for the missing rim so that proper alignment of the rotor to hub is achieved. In the video it looks like your rotors have lots of lateral run-out (warpage)

With wheels on, and driving...does it pulsate when you brake? Does the steering wheel shake while braking? Does it pull left or right while braking, and then straighten up when brakes are released?

If rear rotors are warped, you may feel a thumping in your seat bottom while braking
Rear calipers are a common issue with Fords...make sure the guide hardware is lubed well with proper lubricant
Also work the parking brake to check for cable binding ...I don't recommend that these repairs be done unless you are 100% capable of hydraulic repairs, there's several critical parts inside the rear calipers and if not done properly can lead to a lock up of the parking brake mechanism.
 
Sapperfire said:
Use a spacer to compensate for the missing rim so that proper alignment of the rotor to hub is achieved. In the video it looks like your rotors have lots of lateral run-out (warpage)

With wheels on, and driving...does it pulsate when you brake? Does the steering wheel shake while braking? Does it pull left or right while braking, and then straighten up when brakes are released?

If rear rotors are warped, you may feel a thumping in your seat bottom while braking
Rear calipers are a common issue with Fords...make sure the guide hardware is lubed well with proper lubricant
Also work the parking brake to check for cable binding ...I don't recommend that these repairs be done unless you are 100% capable of hydraulic repairs, there's several critical parts inside the rear calipers and if not done properly can lead to a lock up of the parking brake mechanism.
Click to expand...

Once again, you hit it on the nose..... My rotors are warped, I did notice that. Those will be changed. And I bolted the tire back on, jacked it up a little higher, and no more rubbing. Took it for a drive, no issues. It did used to pull a little during braking but new front pads and rotors fixed that. Again, thanks for the help dude.
 
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