What daily driver would you get?

Another good choice would be a late model Crown Vic.

This. It's what I did when I decided I could really use a 4 door, picked up a 5 year old P71 for $1600 at 130k and put 70k on it since.

A Town Car is a good option as well, nicer on the inside than a Vic and twice the price.

I wouldn't get a Conti, LS, or SHO for a daily, because I kinda like having a reliable daily.

Not much comes close to a panther for a solid daily driver.

might as well get the 4.6L and use it as a DD'er... the SC is a turd, i raced a ported eaton one with full bolt on's running 17PSI with 3.73's and beat him in my basic bolt on 2V GT... from a roll too, and everyone knows the 2V GT's suck up high

Wanna try mine? And BTW, a roll race would be YOUR advantage against a SC.
 
I had a conti from 100k-150k then I gave it to my sister and I never had any problems with it other than replacing the brakes and coils.
 
Wanna try mine? And BTW, a roll race would be YOUR advantage against a SC.

not with my old GT it wouldn't... stock A4 running 4.10's, compared to the insta torque/powerband from the eaton and the M5 it isn't an advantage at all... it's a disadvantage... the advantage for my GT was from a stop, unless you can cut 1.6-1.7 60ft's on a street tire SC and outlaunch a final drive 4.10 3400lbs automatic GT on 305/45/17 BFG DR's with a 3/8" raise in the rear supplying drag upper/lower CA's and I wasn't aware... by the time I got rid of that car I was a stock converter mid 13 second GT that trapped like a low 14 second GT... a stall and I would have seen 12's and still trapped 101MPH xD

I'd advise you to research flow rates and discover just how strained and useless the SOHC 4.6L's were in the higher RPM's... even with aftermarket heads they suffered due to a very poor build quality in the way the cylinder heads were positioned and milled

trust me, don't try to lecture me about cars...

and I'm confident my GTO (now that I no longer have the new edge GT) would be perfectly fine in walking a 3.8L SC with it's stock bottom end... they are nothing special as far as above average speed when they are retaining everything that was given to them as far as a setup, their platform starts to REALLY falter right as soon as they hit 12's (just like an STI or an EVO), and even then the stock eaton cannot take the platform to 12's without additional coolings mods, race gas, baby shot or a port and THEN you have to start replacing things all around the car... sure there are fast ones that have been invested in... but few and far between compared to the ones that stop logically @ 13's, and IMO if my mid-high 13 second GT that trapped 101MPH on a good day could walk one running 17PSI, full supporting mods, a port and 3.73's from a roll with the SC getting the hit... sorry, I just don't have faith in the platform anymore... I've seen the NPI SOHC 4.6L modulars get a PI swap and a set of cams and hit 290-300RWHP all motor like it was nothing for less than a set of aftermarket wheels and rubber... never mind the fact you can jerryrig a used P1SC on the old girl for less than 3K (if you have the knowhow) and be all set if that's your kind of thing... and to go even further an older OHV 5.0L would be an even better choice over both the 4.6L AND the supercharged 3.8L if you want to go fast on the platform... the 302CI HO's took to forced exhaust gas like an infant takes to a tit

but it isn't the OP's kind of thing, he wants a DD'er... so the 4.6L would be a better choice both in DD'er AND a good platform to go fast if he so chooses down the road... which is what I said now... about 5 times

not trying to call you a liar or anything... but don't try to call me one because I "know" what I'm on about...

perhaps when another thread gets made about actually taking a platform and making it fast we can continue this conversation, but at this point I'm done talking about it
 
not with my old GT it wouldn't... stock A4 running 4.10's, compared to the insta torque/powerband from the eaton and the M5 it isn't an advantage at all... it's a disadvantage... the advantage for my GT was from a stop, unless you can cut 1.6-1.7 60ft's on a street tire SC and I wasn't aware

trust me, don't try to lecture me about cars

and I'm confident my GTO (now that I no longer have the new edge GT) would be perfectly fine in walking a 3.8L SC with it's stock bottom end... they are nothing special as far as above average speed when their are retaining everything that was given to them as far as a setup, their platform starts to REALLY falter right as soon as they hit 12's (just like an STI or an EVO), and even then the stock eaton cannot take the platform to 12's without additional coolings mods, race gas, baby shot or a port and THEN you have to start replacing things all around the car... sure there are fast ones that have been invested in... but few and far between, and IMO if my mid-high 13 second GT that trapped 101MPH on a good day could walk one running 17PSI, full supporting mods, a port and 3.73's from a roll with the SC getting the hit... sorry, I just don't have faith in the platform anymore... I've seen the NPI SOHC 4.6L modulars get a PI swap and a set of cams and hit 290-300RWHP all motor like it was nothing... never mind the fact you can jerryrig a used P1SC on the old girl for less than 3K (if you have the knowhow) and be all set if that's your kind of thing

but it isn't the OP's kind of thing, he wants a DD'er... so the 4.6L would be a better choice both in DD'er AND a good platform to go fast if he so chooses down the road


wow, you need a life. go have sex with your gto.
 
wow, I'm angry that he proved me wrong... and then is educating us about different cars by proving other people wrong in an adult manner... LET'S CALL NAMES! KEKEKEKEK!

fixed

now as I said before, I'm done talking about it... it isn't the topic


2000ish Audi A6 2.7T Quattro. I know the cars well, parts are on par with the Marks and mileage is over 20 mpg. My 2002 S4 averaged 25mpg. :)

Or a 2000ish Volvo C70 :)


both are good cars... but just be wary on the Audi... I've seen more than a fair share of ones around that year fall apart @ around 100K come through the shop.... I mean really go bad lol, I have no idea why but they really start having problems with their main drive components in the higher miles that other cars only "sort of" have problems here and there, mostly they like to see their transmission and driveline go... but hey, if you know the cars I'd say go for it, just inspect what you are buying well is all, especially the transmission and axles
 
my driver is clean, fast (3.5, 4 cam), ABS, 4 wheel disk, OD trans, traction control, 4-door, great ac, handles great, 16 inch wheels, I can drive it anywhere and not worry about what happens to it (it does not really attract attention)-it is good on gas (19 city, 29 highway), has been without any problems for over 60,000 miles. I just do the usual, air filters, synthetic oil changes every 5,000 miles, ceramic brake bads, i did drilled and slotted rotors when I got it-the only thing I remember having to replace was a crank sensor, because it stalled a couple of times for no reason. It cost me $2600 5 years ago, I have put one set of tires on it since (245-50/16's), and it has over 130,000 on it now and runs like new still:

These can be found all day, for cheap-I wouldn't get one with a 3.8, although if you are going to build it, there are lots of hop up parts for those-I like the sawed-off 'shortstar'.

intrigue.JPG
 
I don't know about the built quality of the 98+ Continentals, but the 95-97 Conti's interior starts to fall apart really easy. The build quality sucks, maybe the newer ones hold their interior pieces better, which it looks like it might. Also the Mark VIII gets better gas mileage then the Conti and it is more reliably. One thing you will get is a different interior (and exterior) to look at rather then the same old thing if you get another Mark VIII.

Here are some others that might interest you
1. Buick Regal (good MPG)
2. Buick Rivera (if you can get over the ugliness)
3. Basically any 3800 series engine cars but they all have crappy interiors but they are reliable and good on gas.
4. Toyota Avalon (I know..I know it's a toyota but it gets great gas mileage for its size, 20 MPG city 31 Highway)
 
dude man i would just go find a conti or a town car and rock around with the seat kicked way back, drive nice and slow, and keep your pimp cup in the cup holder. we picked up a 99 towncar for the 4 doors and room to shove people in it. not a bad car, $2,100 bucks.
 
trust me, don't try to lecture me about cars...

and I'm confident my GTO (now that I no longer have the new edge GT) would be perfectly fine in walking a 3.8L SC with it's stock bottom end...

not trying to call you a liar or anything... but don't try to call me one because I "know" what I'm on about...

... but at this point I'm done talking about it

And don't try to lecture me about cars that I own either. Even modified SC's usually have at least 30% more torque than HP, and an M5R2 has a 3.75 ratio in first. As anemic as they both are in the upper RPM range, yeah a roll should still be to your advantage.

As for my SC, I do have a stock bottom end, but I'd hazard a guess that with my mods (cam, ported heads, 10% pulley on ported 94 M90, I/H/E, air-water IC, ) I'd be around 310whp/410rwtq. Draw your own conclusions from that, but being that both have IRS with DRs - yet again a roll would be to.... YOUR advantage :)

Anyway, neither the 3.8SC nor an NPI 4.6 are good motors for a real performance build, IMO. I only bought the SC so I could have a forced induction RWD manual that I could slap a few things on and run low 13s with at 5200' track altitude, and because I don't want to afford an 03/04 Cobra. As for a daily driver, I'd take any flavor of 4.6 over a 3.8SC in a heartbeat, any mod motor is gonna be way easier to work on and more reliable.

I'm not trying to call you a liar either, so don't try to imply that I don't 'know what I'm on about.'

Oh, and don't worry about it, we do tend to wander off topic from time to time here, especially in a topic that's pretty much run it's course like this one has..
 
Bill,

With all the highway miles you do, and the speeds you like to drive, get a P71 Vicky and just be done with it.

The price, what your using it for, and performance are spot on.

Case Closed



Dr. SVO phd
 
Not buying nuttin now. Getting layed off. Vic is a good idea though for a secondary car.
 
LaserSVT said:
Getting layed off.
Sorry to hear about this...I know the feeling, Obama jacked my employment up big time. It's going on 3 months now with just odd jobs here and there. Hopefully you will find something soon
 
And don't try to lecture me about cars that I own either. Even modified SC's usually have at least 30% more torque than HP, and an M5R2 has a 3.75 ratio in first. As anemic as they both are in the upper RPM range, yeah a roll should still be to your advantage.

As for my SC, I do have a stock bottom end, but I'd hazard a guess that with my mods (cam, ported heads, 10% pulley on ported 94 M90, I/H/E, air-water IC, ) I'd be around 310whp/410rwtq. Draw your own conclusions from that, but being that both have IRS with DRs - yet again a roll would be to.... YOUR advantage :)

no, it wouldn't... I don't think you understand just how much of an advantage my cars have from a stop over most other street setups.. especially something like a low end torque rich SC that usually puts out wasted power in the form of struggling to get traction... 30% more torque than horsepower only states that the car in question needs 75% more traction/suspension mods to keep the power to the ground because it's 100% harder to apply the power you are making correct... a lot more torque than horsepower is a hindrance from a stop in most cases on the street, not a help

ALL of my go fast cars that I've ever owned have more of an advantage from a dead stop, because unlike most, I build cars right... power mods are a whole lot of nothing without mods to apply that power

you are wrong in this case, sorry


let me put it to you in the way of a video to show you just how well I make my cars dig in....

YouTube- 2006 GTO vs. 2000 mustang GT


start watching @ 1:55 and note the stop/roll difference... don't tell me my cars have a disadvantage where they have to most potential please.... my mustang AND my GTO both screamed off the line like a banshee and left even AWD cars behind once I hit 60MPH

but of course, you know more about my cars than I do and know where their advantages are.... so pardon me
 
start watching @ 1:55 and note the stop/roll difference... don't tell me my cars have a disadvantage where they have to most potential please.... my mustang AND my GTO both screamed off the line like a banshee and left even AWD cars behind once I hit 60MPH

but of course, you know more about my cars than I do and know where their advantages are.... so pardon me

Your an idiot.
 
i think if i had money for a beater right now the top of my list is an ex-
P71 also. back in the day i had an ex detective 86 crown vic black cop car, i even put the cop center hub caps back on the steelies, it was funny how many people nailed the brakes around me, i'd love an 02 or newer vic, i would also keep the post spot light and push guard too, i love the cop cars!
 
i think if i had money for a beater right now the top of my list is an ex-
P71 also. back in the day i had an ex detective 86 crown vic black cop car, i even put the cop center hub caps back on the steelies, it was funny how many people nailed the brakes around me, i'd love an 02 or newer vic, i would also keep the post spot light and push guard too, i love the cop cars!
I had a 351 87 Vic and a 90 Caprice. They were both neat cars and could take an absolute beating! I think the Vic is the best choice. Stopped and looked at one today. 02 Silver with bad bad paint and holes in the roof and bald tires so I figured $1000. Go ask the guy how much he wants and he said $6500...... :lol: I thought Sapperfire was gonna punch him! :lol:
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top