got an oil problem. doesnt look too good

evf4720

evf4720

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so for kicks and giggles i took one of the spark plug covers off and pulled out one of the tubes. it was covered in oil. on the bright side the oil was a pretty color still. but back to the issue, the tube wouldnt even stay down when i pushed it in. it is all slishy sloshy. i didnt take the plugs out and i didnt check the other side. the car is running in tip top shape though. it used to idle surge a little bit but i havent noticed it lately (just got it out after winter storage).

please tell me i dont need a rebuild. if its just heads now would be a good time to swap over to c heads right?
 
That's a common issue!

All of mine are wet to some degree.

It's the plug well seals. Replace those and the cam cover gaskets and all will be well again. (assuming the plug wires are still OK)
 
it was the driver side. whats the difference? thank the lord... i about had a come apart lol
i was only talking about swapping the heads if it needed it. if its just a gasket i'll stick with the heads i have.


thanks alot guys
 
Easy fix. Just bust out the hammer and swing away untill you can see the gasket. :D
 
If it's the drivers side I have a few tricks to get that valve cover off if need be complete with pictures and all :D

I think everyone here can vouch I'm an expert of removing drivers side valve covers :shifty::D:wrench
 
My red Mark had that years ago.

I cleaned the oil out and put new spark plug wires on and never had a problem since. The spark plug wire boots seal too.:)
 
Sometimes loosening the cam cover bolts a quarter turn and then re-tightening the bolts to proper torque specs will fix it. I when I did my valve covers I replaced them because I didn't know the loosen retighten method. Try it first.
 
LaserSVT said:
Easy fix. Just bust out the hammer and swing away untill you can see the gasket. :D
Click to expand...

+1! However results may vary... See below for full details!

ripped camel said:
If it's the drivers side I have a few tricks to get that valve cover off if need be complete with pictures and all :D

I think everyone here can vouch I'm an expert of removing drivers side valve covers :shifty::D:wrench
Click to expand...
 
Clean the oil out and use ultra black RTV inside the plug well around where there's a gap between the head and valve cover (where the plug tower o-ring is seated)...

That's if you wanna be cheap...
 
checked the passenger side. its well lubed too.so it looks like i need a gasket fo both sides. i'm guessing five star ford is the place to go? max seems to have cheap pricing on everything else.

how bad is it to keep running the car with this problem? i have to get my truck going down the road before i can start tearing the lincoln apart. not sure when i'll get around to any of this.

side note: will taking the valve covers off make it easier to slap a set of kooks headers on? i want to do that plus a full exhaust by the end of summer. seems to me like i can use all the engine room i can get free'd up for the header swap. it just makes sense to do both projects at the same time. along with some other parts i'm waiting to install (4.10 gears with limited slip unit, 3500 stall converter, jmodded valve body from darrin,4 in. dynotech driveshaft, walbro 255lph fuel pump, sct tuner, and tranny cooler (wow looks like i'm gonna have one hell of a project if that all happens at once).

but it wouldnt be for a couple months though. would it be ok to wait that long?
 
evf4720 said:
checked the passenger side. its well lubed too.so it looks like i need a gasket fo both sides. i'm guessing five star ford is the place to go? max seems to have cheap pricing on everything else.

how bad is it to keep running the car with this problem? i have to get my truck going down the road before i can start tearing the lincoln apart. not sure when i'll get around to any of this.

side note: will taking the valve covers off make it easier to slap a set of kooks headers on? i want to do that plus a full exhaust by the end of summer. seems to me like i can use all the engine room i can get free'd up for the header swap. it just makes sense to do both projects at the same time. along with some other parts i'm waiting to install (4.10 gears with limited slip unit, 3500 stall converter, jmodded valve body from darrin,4 in. dynotech driveshaft, walbro 255lph fuel pump, sct tuner, and tranny cooler (wow looks like i'm gonna have one hell of a project if that all happens at once).

but it wouldnt be for a couple months though. would it be ok to wait that long?
Click to expand...

If you think taking the valve cover off will help you get the headers on I'd have to vote to not do any of the work. To get the headers on you'll need to drop the K- member.

The J-mod would be easier to do by yourself than the headers or valve cover. Matter of fact after watching Jamie do it to my valve body I think just about anyone could do it. It was literally a matter of boring a few existing holes a little further and then sanding off the burs. So simple.

Watching Jamie do that made me wish I had a shop where I could take these things apart the right way sans a hammer, and fix everything myself.
 
During a discussion on replacing engine mounts, someone posted about a strut tower engine support bar.

Are those adjustable, ie can you use it to lower the engine slightly? I would think that that would allow you to get access to the valve covers a lot easier then using the Camel Hammer.

Or is the best way to buy an engine hoist and drop it down that way?
 
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