GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul

eafaec79d0880d65f99bf1b59cb1bd7d.jpg


Anyone know if that plastic hose comes with the fuel pressure sensor? I broke it removing the sensor to get the egr off.
 
06Ls505 said:
eafaec79d0880d65f99bf1b59cb1bd7d.jpg


Anyone know if that plastic hose comes with the fuel pressure sensor? I broke it removing the sensor to get the egr off.
Click to expand...

A parts store sells little short pieces of hose to repair those hard plastics vacuum lines. Mine broke when I removed my intake. And I had to repair it. Worked like a charm.
 
It doesn't come with the sensor. The other plastic tubes in that assembly will break when you try to fix that one. The whole assembly is 3W4Z-9E498-BA. It's about $36 dollars. You can do your own patches with bits of hose, but the design has specific lengths and diameters of tub joined in particular ways to get the right flows for best results...
 
Just wanted to post a couple pics comparing a part store thermostat and a factory Ford thermostat. There is about 10mm difference in size. size DOES matter.

Ford housing
IMG_1356.jpg
[/URL]

Murray Housing
IMG_1357.jpg
[/URL]

Thermostats Junk on the left and Ford on the right
IMG_1359.jpg
[/URL]
 
Loud said "church"... now can I have a witness??? Oh,,, that's right. Sid provided pics,,, so we do have a witness.

...off soapbox again...

Beyond what Sid said and provided in his pics,,, I notice other differences. Compare the bushed bolt holes between aftermarket and "true" OEM. The laws of thermal expansion dictate that the aftermarket part will split at the bolt holes,,, while the OEM, (Ford dealer), part will not. Not to mention the OEM brass inserts for the thermostat stem, (and non existant check valve in the aftermarket part). Sid gets a thank you for his pics.

Go the cheap route,,, and you will be replacing coolant parts at 50k more miles,,, instead of a 100k more miles. This thread definitely needs to become a "sticky". If not for just an LS cooling system rebuild,,, also for the case of using factory parts vs aftermarket parts.
 
Not sure if anyone knows but you can do this entire replacement without removing the manifold. I used a small rounded file to file a bit of the edge of the plastic intake manifold away to get the back screws holding the coolant cooling neck out. Job took two hours tops with drain, fill and bleed in there as well as a waterpump.
 
^^^

Thank you for confirming what I said in post #46 and #49. These are the kind of "shortcuts" that a mechanic learns when working at a dealership... doing flat rate warranty work,,, so they don't lose their a$$ on getting paid for their time.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
^^^

Thank you for confirming what I said in post #46 and #49. These are the kind of "shortcuts" that a mechanic learns when working at a dealership... doing flat rate warranty work,,, so they don't lose their a$$ on getting paid for their time.
Click to expand...

Yeah, when I saw this thread I was like is op doing cylinder head temp sensors? Lol
 
Bumping an old thread but just wanted to say thank you for the part numbers and good info in this thread....My LS started having overheating issues and I was told a by a shop that it had the "Blown head gasket, pretty much needs a new engine" speech because they had bled the system multiple times and it was still taking in air, but they couldn't find a leak anywhere.

Had the coolant checked for contamination, zero. No white smoke from exhaust either. Car begins to run hot and fans kick on high but if I put the heat on the temp comes right down...

Now maybe you guys can help with this but here's what was replaced...in order to trips to the shop and the result

-First, brought the car to the shop because it was running hot. I had checked the degas bottle, noticed it was low on coolant and I hadn't flushed the coolant since owning the car for three years so I figured, time for a flush and see if the system holds pressure. System did fine on the pressure test. Small leak coming from the bottom hose of the degas bottle. The degas bottle was replaced due to stress cracks being present (I figured why not as they are known to crack, however, the cap was not replaced, didn't know these were separate parts), coolant was flushed and changed. Off I went...
Result: car wouldn't heat up at all, never got off the C mark, even with 30 minutes of driving

-Called the shop, stated it seemed like the Thermostat was stuck open as the car wasn't heating up at all, explained what was going on. Brought it in, they determined the thermostat needed replacing because "there was a hole in it" (on the invoice they replaced the thermostat housing, not the thermostat....) System was bled again, off I went...
Result: Rad fans began to run on high after 10 minutes of driving and would stay on. Temp gauge sat just a tad over its normal position.

Called the shop, explained problems with the fans. Brought it in. They bled the system again, stated they removed the thermostat and housing, reinstalled, stated they replaced the thermostat with a new unit thinking it was faulty. Car still overheated. Bled the system again, stated it kept getting air in the system--Result with them ---> "Sir you have a blown head gasket..."

Currently: Car overheats (needle sits a little higher than normal, not on the H mark or anything), fans run on high. If I put the heat on full blast at 90*, temp drops right back down.


My thoughts after reading this forum is there is is/are cracks in the cooling system and thats causing the overheating issue. Car has 87k miles on it.

Just put my shopping cart together on Tasca...curious to hear your thoughts
 
Press buy. Get some gloves, and do it yourself. The mechanic is just throwing stuff at it and has no clue? Does he not have internet at the shop? One search of 'Lincoln LS overheating' will you bring you hundreds of threads on this forum.
 
There's only one fan and you need a new shop. Replace ALL the plastic cooling system parts and thermostat then bleed EXACTLY as described on here... somewhere...
 
I found the thread with the proper bleeding technique. Is there a service manual to download on this site?
 
The one thing I find a little odd...car wouldn't come UP to proper operating temperature after the degas bottle was replaced and the coolant was flushed and bled...now after replacing the thermostat (housing piece apparently by looking at the invoice), I have problems with air constantly getting in the system. Sound like the thermostat wasn't put together correctly? (i.e. the plastic housing)??
 
Page 1 of this thread... You already said you have a shopping cart ready.

Replace it all then bleed. Wait another 100K and do it all again.
 
Waltzy said:
The one thing I find a little odd...car wouldn't come UP to proper operating temperature after the degas bottle was replaced and the coolant was flushed and bled...now after replacing the thermostat (housing piece apparently by looking at the invoice), I have problems with air constantly getting in the system. Sound like the thermostat wasn't put together correctly? (i.e. the plastic housing)??
Click to expand...

Probably the stress of replacing the thermostat further opened cracks in the crossover pipe and the outlet pipe. You really do have to do it all at once.
Make sure that Motorcraft parts were used. If he used a Dorman degas bottle and/or a Dorman thermostat assembly, then there's your problem. I would suspect that he did use Dorman when he replaced the thermostat, because OEM parts come separate (one part number for the thermostat, and another for the housing), but the Dorman comes as one part number for the housing and the thermostat. There's already been another member here that tried the Dorman thermostat and had constant overheating until he replaced it with OEM.
 
Waltzy, your best bet is to just roll up a $700 wad of cash and sling shot it into your LS. Replace the plastic cooling system components, all rubber seals, etc. Bleed the engine according to procedure.

Bare in mind that if it's debatable to invest $700 into the car for the cooling system, then you may just want to jump ship now. Parts are quite expensive and they are getting just as scarce. The couple common things such as oem cops will set you back $500 by themselves. This is also assuming you're the one getting your hands dirty.

You have a good community here that will guide you through any issue you encounter, but the car isn't for the feint of heart.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 117 (members: 0, guests: 117)
Back
Top