SRB's, Spacer's and LCA's

98lincmk7lsc said:
You can tell why it broke by looking at the flat side of the threaded portion of the bolt. That should be pointing to the thickest portion of the cam washer.
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Are the washer's shaped just like the bolt....half round with a flat on one side?
 
I've been sitting here thinking about this.

If the flat side of the bolt is suppose to point toward's the thickest part of the washer then my mark's are waaaay off! (because the washer is broke)

Does's anyone have a pic of there cam bolt (front and back)??
 
Those cams break when they are spun with weight on the front wheels and no bearing plates to let the tires slide.

Just pull it apart, replace everything and tow it to the alignment shop.


On a side note, you'll be suprised how bad those SRB's will be once torn apart.


Mike
 
94m5 said:
Those cams break when they are spun with weight on the front wheels and no bearing plates to let the tires slide.

Just replace everything
Mike
Click to expand...

What exactly is everything?
LCA's, Cam bolt and adjuster's!

Is there anything else I'm not seeing but need to replace??
 
You did some strategic editing there..........


You mentioned earlier having it towed to the alignment shop, I simply said to replace everything your were already planning on replacing, but also replacing the cam adjusters, then get it loaded up and towed down there.


I'm towing our 97' to the alignment shop tomorrow after I get the driver's side ball joint replaced.
 
94m5 said:
You did some strategic editing there..........


You mentioned earlier having it towed to the alignment shop, I simply said to replace everything your were already planning on replacing, but also replacing the cam adjusters, then get it loaded up and towed down there.


I'm towing our 97' to the alignment shop tomorrow after I get the driver's side ball joint replaced.
Click to expand...

Sorry...:) Was not trying to strategically edit! Just wanted to know if there was anything else I wasn't seeing that I needed to know about...lol
Your wisdom here is well taken!!!
If it doesn't look and act like it will drive straight then it will be towed! Towing is not a problem, just don't like tow truck's
Thank you sir.
 
if im looking at the pic correctly its obvious the front cam washer is junk it should face the same way as the rear.
 
chicken said:
if im looking at the pic correctly its obvious the front cam washer is junk it should face the same way as the rear.
Click to expand...

I just picked up new camber bolt's. I see that on the new one's. The new one's don't look anything like the old one's but I'm thinking that if I keep the front one the same direction as the old one then it should be pretty close. Just don't like the fact that there's no lock nut on the Moog's
I guess there's allway's hope...:)

Cam Adjuster (6).jpg
 
Maybe the old OEM nuts can be reused? (I forget if they're Nylock or not...)
 
That lock washer will serve the same purpose as the lock nut. I would line the new ones up where the side with the bolt heads were on the old ones, and hope it's close. However, if you're towing the car, it shouldn't matter too much...
 
Spree said:
This is the nut side and not the bolt side!
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Yes, I know that. I was saying that the bolt (which happens to go all the way through to the nut side :p) is going to spin inside the washer, on the side that is broken (nut side).
Spree said:
Are the washer's shaped just like the bolt....half round with a flat on one side?
Click to expand...
Yes, but I'm sure you see that now with the new ones in hand. (Can I get some props for directing you to Advance?!? Lol.)
Spree said:
I've been sitting here thinking about this.

If the flat side of the bolt is suppose to point toward's the thickest part of the washer then my mark's are waaaay off! (because the washer is broke)
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was trying to convey in my post earlier. I may not have worded it very well though.
 
pic 1...Lower air spring mount. (loose)
pic 2 and 3...Camber bolt and washer feel apart in my hand. (loose)
pic 4 and 5... Crescent wrench on SR flat and that bar is a breaker bar on a 1/2" ratchet on the rear SRB nut. (loose)
pic 6, 7 and 8...Had to remove this brace to gain better access to the 30MM nut for front SR nut.

Now I'm fight'n with it! I can't get that front SR (30MM) nut looses for nothing! I have a crescent wrench wedged up against the stabilizer bar and a breaker bar on a 1/2" ratchet with a deep well high impact socket!
What is the clue!! Am I missing something? How do you get this frick'n nut loose??? I'm going to break the the stabilizer bar end link if I keep it up!
My 1/2" impact and air compressor are no help

Fix (1).jpg


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I have a big ass 30mm wrench that I use. Then I use another big ass wrench to "double-wrench" it. I don't know how universal that term is, but we used to use it a lot when I was in the Navy. I'll try to get a picture of what I mean.
 
Here's what I mean. You put the box end of one wrench on the nut, and hook the box end of the other wrench on the open end of the first wrench. Whichever side of the open end that you hook it to, depends on which way you're pushing, loosening or tightening.

It makes for an "effectively" longer wrench, and gives you quite a bit more torque. It's basically a cheater bar, when all you have are wrenches. We weren't allowed to use cheater bars in the Navy, but we could use wrenches all we wanted....

image.jpg
 
I have a 2' breaker bar on a 1/2" ratchet with 30MM deep well high impact socket...lol WTF! I can't seem to hold the SR good enough to allow no movement on the SR! I even went as far as putting a hydraulic jack under the ratchet and no luck!!
 
Have you tried putting tension on the breaker bar and hitting it with a hammer? That has worked for me in the past as well.
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
Have you tried putting tension on the breaker bar and hitting it with a hammer? That has worked for me in the past as well.
Click to expand...

Tried that.

Check this s#!t out...

Thought I would try the (hillbilly) technique...

Cut a notch in a 2x4 to support the (metric crescent) wrench.
Strapped the 2x4 to the jack stand holding the rotor up.
2x4 is up against my deck which is up against my house.
Changed to a 30MM wrench (because I though I herd my 1/2" ratchet skipping a tooth).
30MM wrench started out on the ground! Put a hydraulic jack under it and started jacking! (herd the deck creaking)...lol

And.....nothing!

The car is getting ready to come off of the jack stands by way of the 30MM wrench supported by the hydraulic jack!...lol
This is starting to get too funny!
I think the forward SRB's and factory spacers's are there to stay! 4 frick'n hour's I been working on that 30MM bolt!!! Give me a frick'n break!!

Where the he!! is that (dead on) tool I've seen in previous thread's?
I sure could use it about now!

I'M GONNA FRICK'N BREAK SOMETHING IF I KEEP GOING!!!

And now I'm gonna step back and take a breath......:(

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All i'm gonna say is i'm glad my working off jack stand days are long gone. Keep up the fight.
 
You need my torch and impact gun, live closer and you can barrow it! Your going to have to get some heat on that some how. Do you know any one local with a torch?
 
Markviiiedrea said:
You need my torch and impact gun, live closer and you can barrow it! Your going to have to get some heat on that some how. Do you know any one local with a torch?
Click to expand...

Got an impact gun...didn't work.
Heat is not an option, if I burn the old bushing's and still can't get the nut off then I'm screwed!
I think the hillbilly method is working! One hair at a time, at this rate it will take me a frick'n month to get one nut off! But I didn't but new bushing's and make new spacer's for nothing :)
 
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